One of the most common questions electric cooperatives receive about energy efficiency rebate programs is, “Why would the company that sells me energy want me to use less of their product?”

Helping consumers save energy is a powerful tool for electric co-ops. Instead of building or paying for more power generation to meet rising needs in the local community, co-ops create programs that help people save energy in their homes and businesses.

Rebates provide financial incentives for people to use less energy in their homes by reducing the costs of efficiency upgrades, such as insulation, new HVAC systems, water heaters or other appliances. This helps your electric cooperative save money by eliminating or delaying the need to buy additional power or build new power generation facilities. Using less energy also helps lighten the load on existing generation and transmission infrastructure that delivers power to your home through your electric cooperative.

How energy efficiency rebates work

Your cooperative and other local organizations may offer efficiency programs with special incentives for home upgrades, such as rebates paid after a project is completed. State and federal tax credits may also allow you to reduce the amount of taxes you owe for completing eligible home purchases or upgrades. Federal energy efficiency tax credits ended Dec. 31, 2025. If you completed any upgrades before that date, you can still apply for credits on your 2025 federal filings.

Energy efficiency programs are funded through a variety of sources, including surcharges on customer utility bills, grants, and state and federal funding. Some states and regions are required by law to provide energy efficiency programs.

If you are planning to purchase new appliances, equipment or complete an efficiency upgrade, do your research first. Ask your electric cooperative if they offer energy efficiency programs. Also check with your state energy office, which might have additional programs to help. The Inflation Reduction Act allocated federal funds to state-administered programs, including home efficiency rebates and home electrification and appliance rebates, to help residents with retrofits such as windows, insulation, air sealing, HVAC equipment and appliance upgrades.

There are also income-eligible programs available for energy assistance and weatherization, such as the U.S. Department of Energy Weatherization Assistance Program, typically administered by a local community action agency.

Steps to apply for rebates and incentives

Once you identify a rebate, tax credit or financing option you’re interested in, review the criteria carefully. Criteria can vary by program, so make sure you know the eligibility requirements before making a purchase to avoid missing out on energy-saving opportunities.

Some programs require preapproval before you begin a project. Proof of existing equipment or conditions may be required, such as insulation levels or window types. You may also need to schedule an energy audit conducted by a program representative or photo documentation.

If your project meets the requirements of any available programs, you can proceed with installation. You will likely need to fill out an application and submit a final invoice to prove the project is complete. You may also need to submit pictures or have an inspection from a program representative.

Once approved, your rebate will typically be issued as a bill credit or check, depending on the source.

Participating in a rebate program can help you lower your energy use, save money and improve comfort in your home. It can also help your electric cooperative and the electric grid. Contact your local electric cooperative to learn more about available rebates and incentives.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

Buying a new appliance can feel daunting. Before you hand over your hard-earned money, choose an appliance that will help you save money over time.

When shopping, keep in mind that not all new appliances are high efficiency and not all old appliances are inefficient. The less efficient your current appliance is, the more you will save with an upgrade. The yellow EnergyGuide label on new appliances shows the yearly energy cost, kilowatt-hour electricity use and ENERGY STAR^® logo, if certified.

Refrigerators: When an upgrade pays off

Refrigerators have seen major efficiency improvements over the years. New refrigerators use up to 73% less energy than 1970s models and about one-third less than 20-year-old models.

On a visit to my mom’s house, she proudly showed off her 1980s refrigerator she bought when her 1970s harvest gold model died. If her 80s fridge uses 2,000 kilowatt-hours (kWh) per year, at 14 cents per kWh, it costs $280 per year to operate. New ENERGY STAR-certified refrigerator prices start at $500 with yearly energy costs ranging from $38 to $122. If mom buys a new ENERGY STAR-certified refrigerator for $1,000 with $100 yearly energy cost – saving her $180 per year – it will pay for itself in about 5½ years.

If you intend to keep your existing appliance, be sure to weigh the additional energy costs. Maximize efficiency and keep your food safe by setting your refrigerator to 37 degrees F and your freezer at 0 degrees F.

Laundry appliances: Efficiency gains aren’t always equal

New ENERGY STAR-certified clothes washers and dryers are also more efficient than older models. Use the ENERGY STAR Product Finder at www.energystar.gov to compare products. Integrated Modified Energy Factor measures the washer’s energy efficiency. A higher number is better. Integrated Water Factor measures water efficiency. A lower number is better.

I recently bought a new washing machine when my old front-load machine died. I was considering a top-load machine. When I compared ENERGY STAR-certified top loaders to front loaders, I changed my mind. ENERGY STAR-certified front loaders use about 50% less energy and water than top-load agitator washers and about 25% less energy and water than top-load impeller washers that don’t have an agitator.

My new washer cost $698. According to the appliance’s EnergyGuide, based on six loads of laundry a week and an electricity cost of 14 cents per kWh, the yearly energy cost is $15. Similar non-ENERGY STAR-certified models were $48 per year. Mine didn’t cost much more than non-ENERGY STAR models and will help me save over time.

Then I had to make the decision about buying the matching dryer. My dryer was functional but had features I didn’t like. At 14 cents per kWh and running roughly six loads a week for an hour each, my old dryer used $131.04 per year.

The new matching ENERGY STAR-certified dryer cost $698 and estimates annual energy use at 607 kWh, which is $84.98 per year at 14 cents per kWh. With an estimated savings of $46 per year, the dryer would take 15 years for the savings to cover the price. That’s a long time and not worth the cost.

To improve your washer and dryer efficiency, wash in cold water, don’t over dry clothes and clean your lint trap between every load.

Televisions: Settings may make a difference

Just like the light bulbs in your home, LED televisions offer increased efficiency. ENERGY STAR-certified televisions are 34% more efficient than conventional models. If you have a working LED television, swapping to an ENERGY STAR model is more efficient but may not make up for the cost of a new TV. Instead, check the efficiency settings on your TV or buy a smart power strip that turns off other connected devices when not in use.

Whatever appliance you are upgrading or replacing, make an informed decision by comparing the cost of operation and shopping ENERGY STAR models to help lower your electric bill.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

Out of sight, out of mind. It is easy to overlook the hidden energy users in our homes. Yet, every plugged-in device and ready-to-use appliance can lead to higher electric bills.

Let’s see if we can find some hidden energy savings for you.

Tackle energy hogs you don’t see


Your water heater could be using more energy than necessary. Storage water heaters heat water to a preset temperature. When hot water is used, cold water enters the tank, lowering the temperature, and the water is reheated to that preset level. If the water heater is set higher than needed, it wastes energy. Most water heaters are set to 140 degrees F at the factory. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends setting the temperature to 120 degrees F. Doing so will save energy and reduce the risk of scalding. Do not set it lower than 120 degrees F to prevent bacteria development in the tank.

Exterior security lights, porch lights and barn lights can use more energy than needed. If they are on every night, all year long, that adds up to 4,380 hours, or half the hours in a year. If those lights use outdated, inefficient technology, they waste energy. With that many hours, even a slight increase in efficiency can yield big energy savings. Switch to energy-efficient LED bulbs. If lights don’t need to stay on, consider upgrading to motion sensor lights to avoid drawing energy all night.

Pools and hot tubs can also be big energy users. Since you don’t see the pumps or heaters by design, it’s difficult to know when they are operating and consuming energy. Pumps filter water to keep it clean and safe for swimming. ENERGY STAR^®-certified pumps run at lower speeds and can be programmed to match your pool’s filtering needs, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. They can pay for themselves in two years, are quieter and can prolong the life of your pool’s filtering system. Schedule your hot tub to a lower temperature when you’re not using it to reduce energy use. If your electric utility offers time-of-use rates, consider scheduling accordingly.   

Take control of plugged-in power


Plug load is anything in your home that is plugged into an outlet. As we use more and more appliances and technology in our homes, plug load energy use increases. Find what is plugged in around your home. If you aren’t using it, unplug it. For computer stations and entertainment centers, consider using smart power strips. These devices sense when energy is being used and turn peripheral devices on or off as needed.

Gaming consoles are another hidden energy user. Gamers often put them in rest mode when not in use. This allows them to complete updates and reduces start-up time for the next session. It also means they are still consuming energy even when not actively used. Powering off between gaming sessions can save energy. Ask the gamers in your life to power off. It may require a bit more time for updates, but every kilowatt-hour counts when it comes to saving energy.

It’s easy to make a habit of powering down and unplugging once you identify everything drawing power in your home. For upgrades, reach out to your electric utility about available rebates to help cover costs.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

When exploring ways to be more efficient with refrigerators and freezers, we often find ourselves balancing convenience with energy conservation. While you can upgrade to newer equipment, care and equipment habits can be just as important to saving energy.

Here is some guidance on equipment energy use, including tips to keep your current equipment running efficiently and ways to limit overuse of refrigeration in our homes.

The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) helps us understand what to look for in our existing equipment and new appliances. Generally, the larger the refrigerator, the more energy it uses. The most efficient models are typically 16 to 20 cubic feet in size. Models with the freezer on top tend to use less energy than bottom freezers or side-by-side units. A refrigerator 15 years or older uses about 35% more energy than an ENERGY STAR^®-certified model.

Let’s explore some tips to keep your refrigerator running efficiently.

Keep it organized. One of the biggest issues with refrigerator energy use is opening the door or keeping it open. An organized fridge makes food items easier to find, minimizing open-door time and keeping cold air inside. Place items in the same spots so they are easier and faster to find. I tell my kids to take a quick look inside at the options and close the door while they are deciding what to eat. 

Keep it clean. Regularly cleaning the gasket – the flexible strip around the perimeter of the fridge door – ensures a tight seal between the door and the unit, keeping cold air inside. If the gasket is not sealing tightly, it should be replaced. Removing and cleaning the vent at the bottom of the unit can help with airflow. For the coils at the back, use an extended cleaning brush instead of moving the fridge, which can cause injury.

Keep food safety in mind. The DOE recommends setting your refrigerator temperature between 35 and 38 degrees F and your freezer at 0 degrees F.

If you have a second refrigerator or freezer, consider the following three tips to help you save energy.

 Do you need it plugged in year-round? Perhaps you can keep it empty and unplugged for part of the year. Maybe you only really need it during the holiday season. Unplugging it for the months you aren’t using it will save energy, and you’ll still have it as a backup when you need it.

 If you are a hunter or buy meat in bulk, set a goal to empty your freezer before you restock. This allows you to avoid food waste and unplug the extra appliance when it is not needed.

Consider the location. Keeping the second fridge or freezer in a cool basement versus a hot garage requires less energy.

Practicing basic cleaning and proper food storage is an easy way to improve the efficiency of your refrigerator and freezer.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

I love old homes. I’ve always been drawn to the details and craftsmanship. The features of older homes can make them less efficient than modern construction, but it doesn’t have to be a trade-off. You can keep the charm and make your home more efficient.

Start by prioritizing the invisible upgrades that make your home more comfortable and efficient. When we were kids, I don’t think any of us thought, “When I grow up, I want to spend my hard-earned money on insulation.” It’s not as exciting as new countertops or a remodeled bathroom, but air sealing and insulation can save you money every month. Then you can apply the savings to aesthetic improvements.

Addressing your home’s envelope


Many older homes are not properly insulated. Insulation has several benefits beyond sealing your home and keeping outdoor air from seeping in. It reduces outdoor noise, makes your home quieter and improves your overall comfort.

Always properly air seal before you insulate. Older homes with pocket doors, coved ceilings, dumbwaiters, doors to attic spaces and laundry chutes allow indoor air to escape through the cavities, gaps and cracks around these classic features. Sealing off open cavities around those features often requires plywood, rigid foam or drywall fastened into place and then caulked around the edges.

Keep an eye out for framing features that cause drafts. Balloon framing is a type of construction where wall studs run all the way from the foundation to the roof, allowing air to flow freely through those spaces. Second floors with knee wall attics on both sides are notorious for air leakage. Open cavities allow air to flow horizontally between the attic spaces, making the home uncomfortable and inefficient. Seal off the open cavities in the floor framing and insulate attic spaces.

Dense-packed cellulose or closed cell foam insulation can be sprayed into exterior walls. Skilled contractors can remove pieces of siding and drill holes to fill the wall cavities from the outside of the home. For brick or stone homes, holes can be drilled from the inside and then patched and painted. Insulating walls from the inside of the home requires more time and effort in preparation and cleanup, but having well-insulated walls is worth it.

Knob and tube wiring – commonly used from the early 1880s to the 1930s with no grounding wire – should be replaced prior to insulating walls and attics for safety purposes. Contact between insulation and knob and tube wiring can create a fire hazard.

People often think new windows are the best way to improve a home’s efficiency. Considering the cost of replacing windows, I recommend investing in air sealing and insulation first. Then, consider storm windows to keep the charm of the original windows, such as leaded glass and stained glass windows in good condition. Choose from interior or exterior options that are operable and inoperable.

Appliance improvements


Once you’ve addressed the envelope of your home, consider appliance improvements. Replace your old electric water heater with a heat pump water heater. This upgrade can save a family of four an estimated $550 per year and more than $5,600 over the lifetime of the water heater, according to ENERGY STAR^®. 

Invest in high-efficiency heating and cooling equipment. A mini-split heat pump, also known as a ductless heat pump, is a more efficient option than electric baseboard heating and provides the benefit of air conditioning.

Older homes don’t have to be inefficient. Show your home some love and invest in energy efficient upgrades.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

There’s a lot going on in the space around our homes. Competing factors of aesthetics, safety, energy efficiency, water conservation and increasing risk of wildfires are a lot to consider. Thoughtful planning and good design can address these factors and result in year-round energy savings.

Carefully positioned trees can save up to 25% of a typical household’s energy use, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE). When selecting the right trees and other foliage, research what is best for Iowa. Select native species for lower maintenance.

Plant for multiple benefits


Strategically placed deciduous trees allow for summer shade and passive solar heat gain in the winter when leaves have fallen. This can lead to energy savings in the summer and winter.

Slower-growing trees might take longer to provide maximum shading benefit, but their roots are typically deeper, and branches are stronger. These factors can make them less likely to be damaged by wind, snow or ice, and they are more drought resistant. 

Be sure to plant large trees far enough away from your home to prevent damage from falling branches or root damage to your home’s foundation.

Keep in mind, if you have a rooftop photovoltaic solar system, even a small amount of shade can significantly reduce energy production. Consider smaller plantings closer to the home to shade walls, windows or hardscaped surfaces, such as driveways and sidewalks. 

Windbreaks are another landscaping strategy that can be beneficial for energy savings in windy areas. The DOE says windbreaks reduce wind speed by as much as 30 times the windbreak’s height. That, in turn, reduces wind chill near your home and can lower heating costs. The DOE recommends planting two to five times the mature tree’s height away from your home. 

Plant evergreen trees and shrubs for windbreaks and consider adding fences or earthen mounds to help lift the wind up and over your home. In cold climates, they offer the added benefit of acting as a snowdrift to keep snow from piling up against your home. 

Keep landscaping clear of dryer vents, heat pumps and air-conditioning units to ensure access for maintenance and airflow around those locations. 

Consider safety first


When landscaping, always consider safety first. Call before you dig to ensure you know where any underground power, gas, water or sewer lines are located. The national 811 Underground Service Alert program routes you directly to your local resources. Call 811 or go to IowaOneCall.com before you dig. 

Be mindful of overhead power lines, too. Look up and check the surroundings before setting up ladders. Be thoughtful when planting new landscaping that could encroach on power lines. Utility equipment should have at least 10 feet of clearance, when possible.

As you prepare to refresh your yard for the coming spring and summer, consider ways you can boost your energy efficiency for more comfort and savings year-round.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

If you’re looking for hidden energy savings in your home, start at the top. A common hiding spot for energy savings is the attic. It is also a common location for storing holiday decorations and sentimental items that aren’t frequently used. Yet, using your attic for storage can be problematic when trying to maximize your home’s energy efficiency. Let’s explore how you can improve insulation levels and properly store items in your attic.

Year-round benefits


Attic insulation is one of the best low-cost ways to make your home efficient. People often associate insulation with keeping your home warmer in the winter, but it also provides benefits in the summer. Insulation reduces heat transfer from the attic to the house, which lowers energy bills for air conditioning and makes your home more comfortable.

Attic insulation is measured in R-value, which is a measurement of how well a material resists the flow of heat. For attic insulation, thicker is better. The recommended R-value is typically between R-38 and R-60, depending on your climate. For attics without insulation, R-60 is recommended for Iowa. If you already have 3 to 4 inches of insulation, then R-49 is recommended. In most homes, the ceiling joists are buried in insulation to achieve the recommended R-value.

The problem with attic storage is it typically doesn’t offer enough space for the recommended R-value. Often, plywood or boards are placed directly on top of the ceiling joists, which doesn’t allow enough space for the insulation. Insulation can get compacted by people moving items in or out, reducing the effective R-value.

Ideas for attic storage without comprising insulation


Ideally, the attic would not be used for storage so that it can be properly insulated, but that’s not feasible for everyone. Here are some strategies for maintaining attic storage and recommended insulation levels.

The best location for attic storage is over an unconditioned area of your home, such as the garage. You don’t need insulation in attic spaces over a garage or unconditioned area because you are not heating or cooling the space below. This makes it the perfect spot to tuck away items for storage.

If that isn’t an option, consider minimizing the number of stored items or the storage area’s footprint. A great way to do this is by building an attic storage platform. A raised platform allows the space underneath it to be fully insulated. These platforms are available in ready-to-install kits, or you can buy materials and build them yourself.

Allow enough space underneath the platform to achieve the proper R-value. Use lumber to build a frame perpendicular to the existing joists and cover it with plywood or oriented strand board. Once your storage area is set up, add insulation inside the platform to bring the R-value up to the proper level.

Your attic might also have trusses that allow you to build shelves and maximize space by storing items vertically.

Always wear a dust mask or respirator when working in the attic. Don’t forget to weatherstrip the attic hatch to ensure a tight seal.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

Educating kids on energy use and costs can help engage them in your family’s goal to use less electricity. They can be electric conservation champions if you ask them to help. Here are some ways you can teach kids to use less electricity.

A real-life math lesson

Show your kids how to read the electric bill. Focus on what you can control: kilowatt-hour use. If they are old enough, teach them how to do the math. You can calculate (kWh) use by multiplying wattage by hours used and dividing by 1,000. Multiply this by the kWh rate on your electric bill to estimate how much you spend on power for each household appliance.

For example, if you have a space heater that uses 1,500 watts and is on for four hours a day for a month, it uses 180 kWh. With an average kWh rate of $0.137 in the U.S., the space heater costs about $25 a month to operate. That same space heater costs about $74 a month if it is on for 12 hours per day. Your kWh rate may be lower or higher depending on where you live.

For household appliance wattage, look for the amount stamped on the bottom, back or nameplate. If the nameplate does not include wattage, it can be calculated by multiplying the voltage by the amperage.

Behavior changes add up

To teach children the impact of saving energy, have them help you conserve with the household’s most significant energy-consuming appliances: heating and cooling. Teach kids to dress appropriately for the seasons, even indoors, which allows you to set the thermostat to balance comfort and savings.

You can also leave the house during the hottest times of the day to go for a swim or play outside. Before you go, nudge the thermostat up a few degrees to avoid wasted energy cooling an empty house. Turn off fans when you leave a room.

The second-highest use of electricity is typically the electric water heater. Use a shower timer so kids can monitor how long they are in the shower. Teach them to wash their clothes with cold water.

Other ways to save include turning off the lights when you leave the room. Powering down gaming stations and computers is another way to save. In the kitchen, keep the refrigerator door shut. Teach kids to take a quick peek and shut the door while they think about their snack options.

A family conservation challenge

After teaching your kids about electric bills and showing them how to save electricity, make a game out of your family’s energy conservation efforts. Challenge the family to use less energy than last month or the same month the previous year. Use the savings to reward them with a treat or let the winner pick the game night activity or film for family movie night.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 electric co-ops.

Electricity touches our lives nearly every minute of every day, making up about 5% of the nation’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). So, it makes sense to use it wisely, whether you're concerned about how it affects the environment or you want to save money – or both.

Here are three surprising facts about energy efficiency that can help you make the best use of your electricity.

Proof of efficiency

A little-known way of measuring efficiency performance is with a statistic called the “energy intensity index.” It shows how much energy it takes to produce a dollar of the economy’s GDP. Another term that’s been used for that idea is “energy productivity.”

Whichever term you use, the indexes show that Americans are getting better at creating more economic activity with less energy – energy intensity is down and productivity is up. Way up.

The numbers show that energy intensity is about half what it was 30 years ago. That’s because we’re making strides in a range of ways, from building codes to light bulbs to motor vehicle mileage. And these improvements are expected to continue. The Department of Energy projects energy intensity will decline by 30% over the next 30 years.

Out with the old, in with the new

The old phrase “you have to spend money to make money” is catchy because, at first, it sounds like it doesn’t make sense. But when it comes to appliances that consume a lot of energy, it can make dollars and sense.

From dishwashers to computers, energy efficiency is improving dramatically every year as technology, federal rules and plain old competition give you a better bang for your buck. In fact, if your refrigerator or dishwasher is more than 10 years old, the money you can save on energy use for a new appliance could pay for itself in just a few years.

The yellow Energy Guide labels found on products at your appliance store will tell you how much you can save with a new purchase. Another way to compare the old to the new is to search “flip your fridge” on Google or another online search engine. It will take you to an ENERGY STAR^® calculator that will compare the energy use of your current appliances to what’s available in stores.

Slaying vampires

Did you know you could be spending $100 to $400 a year on energy you don’t even need? That frightening fact even comes with scary names–phantom power or vampire electronics. It’s the TV and video game console that draw power so they’re ready to turn on instantly. It’s the digital clocks. It’s the computers and phones plugged in even though they’re fully charged.

Getting rid of phantom power can be tricky. You probably don’t want to regularly shut off your wireless router or constantly reboot your smart TV. But you can plug several devices into a power strip and turn them off when they are not being used. Or smart power strips are available that will do that for you. When you’re shopping for new electronics and appliances, look for the latest ENERGY STAR^®-rated models that take vampire loads into account. It is also worthwhile to take a notepad through each room of your home and list anything that’s plugged in. This helps you figure out which energy users you might be able to control without causing too much inconvenience.

Phantom power costs do add up, but it’s also true that your home has much bigger energy users. If you’re concerned about energy costs, ensure your heating and cooling system is up to date and working efficiently, and your windows and doors aren’t leaking air.

Your electric co-op can advise you on the most effective steps for energy savings. After all, they’re your local leading authority on home energy use. And that’s no surprise.

Paul Wesslund writes on consumer and cooperative affairs for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives.

You can change your energy use by changing your behavior. Many people focus on the total dollar amount when looking at electric bills. When managing your energy costs, shifting your focus to how you use energy can be helpful. The following are some actionable behavior changes to help you save on your next bill.

Set goals

Instead of thinking about your bills in terms of dollars, think about them in terms of kilowatt-hours (kWh). A kilowatt-hour is the unit of energy used for most electric bills. Review your monthly kWh use to get an idea of how much you use every month. Once you’ve reviewed your energy use, set goals for the next month. Try to use less energy than the month before, and then check your results on your next bill.

Know when to use less energy

Some electric utilities offer time-of-use rates, which means electricity costs are dependent on the time of day. This pricing structure more closely reflects the cost to electric utilities and helps consumers understand that energy costs more when the demand is higher.

Even if your electric bill does not include time-of-use rates, it can be beneficial to delay energy-intensive chores or tasks to when demand is lower. Peak hours are typically in the morning as we get ready for work and in the evening when we get home and start preparing food and turning on entertainment devices. Doing laundry and running the dishwasher are easy activities to delay until after peak hours.

Power “off” for energy savings

When looking for energy savings, remember that “off” is the most efficient setting. Turning off lights is a classic strategy, especially if your lighting is incandescent. Consider switching to energy-saving LED lightbulbs.

Computers and gaming systems can waste energy even when in sleep mode. The higher the wattage and the more hours the device is on, the more energy used. Laptops use the least energy, followed by personal computers at about 200 watts. Gaming consoles typically use less energy than gaming PCs. Remember to turn off the monitor as well.

Many electronics continue to draw power even when they are turned off. According to the Department of Energy, leaving them plugged in could add 5% to 10% to your monthly bill. Installing smart power strips is an easy way to ensure devices are completely turned off and not drawing power.

Adjust the temperature

When it comes to lowering your energy use, the settings on your thermostat are another great place to check. Remember that the weather affects your electric bill for heating and air conditioning.

The closer you can keep the indoor temperature to the outdoor temperature, the more you will save. You want to protect your home from damage in extreme heat and cold, but if you can turn the temperature down a few degrees in winter and up in summer, you will save on energy costs.

Ensuring the filters in your heating and cooling system are clean is an easy way to keep your system maintained and operating efficiently. Adding annual servicing by a professional maximizes the efficiency and can lengthen the life of your system.

Understanding your energy use and making small adjustments to your routine will help you reach your energy use goals.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives.

Have you ever received your energy bill and wondered which appliances use the most energy? Don’t worry – you’re not alone. A few years ago, after being away for a somewhat lengthy trip, I arrived home to a typical energy bill. I was surprised because I expected a lower bill after being away from home, so I began a search for some answers. 

Home heating and cooling adds up

According to the Energy Information Administration (EIA), a typical U.S. home spends more than $2,000 annually on energy bills, and on average, more than half of household energy consumption is for just two energy end uses: space heating and air conditioning. This shows the importance of adjusting the thermostat when you’re away because it truly makes a difference on monthly bills.

Water heaters tend to be the third- largest energy user at 13%, followed by lighting, which usually accounts for about 12.5% of the average energy bill.

These insights can help you better understand and control your energy consumption. I’ve been able to save money by using helpful devices like smart thermostats, water heater controllers and smart power strips to control my energy consumption.

Factors affecting energy use

Several factors affect the amount of energy a household uses, including geographic location and climate, the number of people in the home, the type of home and its physical characteristics. The efficiency of energy-consuming devices and the amount of time they are used also impact home energy consumption.

Six tips to save energy and money

1. Use ENERGY STAR®-rated appliances and devices.
2. Replace old, inefficient equipment. If your air conditioner, furnace or water heater is more than 10 years old, it is likely using a lot more energy than necessary. A newer model will save you money in the long run.
3. Use appliances with efficiency in mind. Only wash full loads of clothes or dishes, and cook with smaller, countertop appliances instead of the oven when possible.
4. Set your thermostat. When you’re in the home and active, the Department of Energy recommends setting it to 78 degrees in the summer and 68 degrees in the winter. 
5. Use energy-efficient LED bulbs. They use 75% less energy than incandescent bulbs and last 25 times longer.
6. Plug electronics into a smart power strip. This allows you to designate “always on” for devices that need to maintain network connection, while cutting power from devices like speakers and TVs when they are not in use.

In addition to the tips shared above, consider using real-time energy monitors to help identify faulty appliances or other problems that might run unnoticed for extended periods of time, leading to high energy bills.

With a little extra attention to how you use energy in your home, you’ll be well on your way to a path of energy savings and lower energy bills. 

Tolu Omotoso is the director of energy solutions at the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives.
 

Winterizing is an important step to keep your home cozy and your bills low. These tried-and-true methods and essential tips will ensure your home is sealed tight and ready for colder weather.

Insulate pipes and the water heater

You can raise the water temperature inside your home’s water pipes by 2 to 4 degrees simply by insulating them, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE). Insulating allows you to turn down the heat on your water heater, saving energy and money.

Start by insulating the pipes coming out of your water heater. If you have a gas water heater, keep pipe insulation at least 6 inches away from the flue. Insulate hot and cold water lines. The latter can prevent condensation and freezing pipes. Insulating your water heater can save 7% to 16% on water heating costs, according to the DOE. Insulation kits are available at hardware stores, but remember – don’t obstruct the pressure relief valve, thermostats or access valves.

Seal air leaks                                  

Air sealing and insulation are an excellent combination for minimizing home energy use. Insulation is like a warm sweater for your home, and air sealing is the windbreaker. All the cracks, gaps and holes in a typical home can be like having a window open year-round. Air sealing eliminates those leaks. It can be done as a do-it-yourself project or by a professional.

Keep windows tight and add layers

Windows can be a source of drafts and wasted energy, so close windows tightly.

Add weatherstripping around windows to prevent warm air from escaping your home and caulk the gaps where the window trim meets the wall and the window frame. Add curtains to make the room feel warmer.

Storm windows are a lower-cost option for upgrading single-pane windows. They are available with low-emissivity coatings, which insulate better, and are available for installation either from the inside or outside of the window.

Use dampers effectively                             

When I was little, my dad told me it was too cold to have a fire. I remember thinking that made no sense, but he was right.

We had an open, wood-burning fireplace – not a wood stove. A fireplace can draw the warm air out of the house, cooling it down or causing your heating system to use more energy.

Your fireplace adds ambiance to your home but isn’t necessarily effective at heating it. If you have a wood-burning fireplace, close the damper when your fire is extinguished. An open damper in the winter is an easy exit for the air you paid to heat.

Adding tempered glass doors to a wood-burning fireplace can create an extra buffer between the cold outside and a cozy living space.

Some gas fireplaces require a damper to remain permanently open so that gas can vent out of the home. Check the specifications of your unit to ensure safe operation.

Check your filters                        

Maintaining a clean filter in your furnace is one of the best ways to keep it running efficiently and prevent costly repairs. Check your furnace or ductless heat pump filter monthly during peak heating season.

ARE YOU CLOSING OFF PART OF YOUR HOME DURING THE WINTER?

Follow these best practices

There is often a lot of debate about the best way to close off rooms or parts of the home in the winter to save energy.

Best practices come down to the type of heat source. If you have a zonal heating system, where individual areas are controlled separately, you can close doors and only heat the areas you use. Examples of zonal systems are wall heaters, baseboard heat, hydronic radiant heat, radiators and ductless heat pumps, also called mini-splits.

Keep areas with plumbing or water lines warm enough so pipes do not freeze.

If you have a central forced-air heating system, leave doors open to all heated areas. Closing doors and register dampers force the system to work harder, use more energy and can shorten the life of heating equipment.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives.

Heating and cooling account for about half the energy used in a typical home, so it’s a great place to use less energy. When used wisely, your thermostat can help reduce wasted energy. 

An excellent place to start is understanding thermostat types and common operational misconceptions. Then, start implementing best practices.

Types of thermostats

Mechanical thermostats are easy to control by adjusting a dial or sliding switch. The downfall is that you must manually make temperature adjustments, which is easy to forget. They are inefficient because they typically heat or cool the home beyond the set point.

If your cooling is set to 72 degrees, a mechanical thermostat may cool your home to 70 degrees before turning off, wasting energy. Then, it might not come on again until the home reaches 74 degrees. That four-degree temperature change is noticeable and can lead people to adjust the thermostat setting down even more, which wastes more energy.

Also, some mechanical thermostats contain mercury. You can determine that by removing the front plate and looking for small glass bulbs. If your thermostat contains mercury, replace it and find a way to recycle it properly.

Digital thermostats are more accurate and efficient, and some are programmable, which is a great option for people without internet access. Smart thermostats, which require an internet connection, are Wi-Fi-enabled and can be controlled using a smartphone app. Programming is easier, and you can track and manage use and temperature data. However, that data is shared with the manufacturer.

Smart thermostats can learn your preferences and set a schedule that automatically adjusts the temperature. Some even have geofencing, which changes the temperature based on the distance your smartphone is from home.

Misconceptions about thermostats

A common misconception is that the higher you turn your thermostat up or down, the faster your home’s temperature changes. Turning your thermostat down to 55 degrees to cool your home faster is like repeatedly pushing the elevator button and expecting it to come faster.

It’s likely you will forget you adjusted it and waste energy by over heating or cooling the home. Set your desired temperature for heating and cooling or program your thermostat so you don’t make extreme adjustments. 

The larger the temperature variance between inside and outside, the more energy your system uses. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, setting your thermostat 7 to 10 degrees from its normal setting for eight hours a day can save up to 10% a year on your energy bill.

Use these cooling tips from the DOE to add efficiency and savings to your home:

• Set the thermostat to 78 degrees in the summer when you are home and awake and warmer at night or when away.
• Upgrade to a programmable or smart thermostat that automatically adjusts the temperature throughout the day and when you leave the house.
• When on vacation, set your thermostat to 85 degrees in the summer.
• In the summer, fans let you set your thermostat about 4 degrees warmer without feeling it. Remember, fans cool people not rooms, so turn them off when you leave a room.

Miranda Boutelle writes on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

If you’re handy or like taking on a challenge, do-it-yourself (DIY) projects can be rewarding. There’s something rewarding about rolling up your sleeves and seeing the result of your hard work. But when it comes to home improvement, some projects – including energy efficiency improvements – are best left up to the professionals.

Weighing the DIY option

When it comes to home energy efficiency projects, there are a variety of reasons you may want to try DIY. One reason is if you’re convinced you can do a better job than a contractor. Naturally, this depends on the scope of the project and how knowledgeable you are about the work. Here are some reasons for tackling a project on your own:

• You’re unable to find a contractor that is available and reasonably priced.
• You need the work completed in a tight time frame or during odd hours.
• You’re certain you can save a lot of money.
• The job is one you’d really enjoy doing yourself.

Deciding to hire a contractor

On the flipside, there are also several good reasons to hire a contractor:

• Specialized equipment is required. For example, some contractors use an infrared camera to review wall framing and air leaks.
• Specialized materials are needed. Attics need proper ventilation, and contractors might have easier access to attic insulation baffles or roof vents.
• There’s a safety issue or risk.
• Tackling the project yourself will save little or no money. I discovered years ago that some contractors could install insulation cheaper than I could buy it.

Research energy efficiency projects upfront

As you consider whether to do the job yourself, be sure to research the tools and supplies you’ll need. Fortunately, there are amazing resources online.

When you search for information like “how to insulate an attic” or “how to air seal a home” online, you’ll find fact sheets and video tutorials from contractors, home improvement shows, big box suppliers and material manufacturers. YouTube videos often show experts making projects seem simple, but beware, some of these videos are aimed at other experts and not DIY homeowners.

To ensure you’re getting technically sound information, visit the ENERGY STAR® website (www.energystar.gov). Also, energy auditors can be another great source of information. They can provide specifics about the materials you’ll need as well as information about local contractors and suppliers.

We don’t recommend tackling energy efficiency projects yourself unless you’ve done thorough research. Another benefit of doing research upfront is that it will help you even if you decide to hire a contractor. You’ll be able to identify a knowledgeable contractor and recognize a quality job.   

Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency write on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

With Father’s Day this month, you might be thinking about buying some rechargeable power tools for the dad in your life whether that’s your husband or father.

If your loved one enjoys tackling home projects, rechargeable tools are an excellent gift idea.  

Rechargeable cordless tools are worth the investment when the corded version is the least convenient option. For example, a power drill is something you usually move around with and often use outside, so a cordless drill is much more convenient and a worthy investment. On the other hand, a table saw is usually not the first choice for cordless tools because it doesn’t need to be moved repeatedly during a home project.

Quality cordless tools are usually less expensive if you buy them as part of a set instead of one tool at a time. And you can’t typically mix and match between brands because each line of tools uses a unique battery. So, it may cost less in the long run to buy a cordless starter kit with a few helpful tools and a battery, then add tools to the set as needed.

Here are a few cordless tools that the father in your family will love!

Power drill

As one of the most-used power tools, a drill should be everyone’s first cordless tool. Using a corded drill can mean constantly moving the cord around furniture, other tools or your own feet, which can be dangerous. Cordless drills are easy to use, and the technology has improved so they have more power and hold a charge longer. Light-duty drills are smaller and less powerful but easy to use for smaller projects. 

Leaf blower

If the father in your family uses a gas-powered leaf blower, you can do him (and your neighbors!) a favor by giving him a cordless leaf blower. This option is more energy efficient, much quieter and less polluting.

String trimmer

A string trimmer is a quick way to trim weeds and grass near walls, bricks and rocks. If your family uses an outdated gas trimmer around the yard, it’s time for a change. Two-stroke engines pollute the air and require regular maintenance. Electric trimmers are more energy efficient and quieter. You can find a variety of models between $50 and $150, and it’s worth paying a little more to get a highly rated model that will last longer.

Flashlight

Today’s LED technology is amazing – LED flashlights can produce 20 times as much light as incandescent ones. And they come in a variety of options, from tiny key chain lights to headlamps to waterproof spotlights. A flashlight can usually give better light than a cell phone, especially if you’re working in a tight space like under a sink. A flashlight often comes as part of a cordless tool set, or you can buy a single unit that recharges using a USB port on a charger, USB wall socket or mobile phone battery.

Batteries make cordless tools possible. Lithium-ion batteries are more expensive, but they’re gaining popularity because they hold a charge longer. While they hold a longer life, they still degrade over time and may need to be replaced in about three years.

It’s worth buying a reputable brand of cordless tools so you can be confident you will be able to find a replacement battery. Lithium-ion batteries should not be disposed with trash because they are a fire hazard and contain toxic chemicals. Your local waste disposal service can provide information on how to dispose of these batteries properly. 

It goes without saying, but these cordless tool gift ideas aren’t just for dads or Father’s Day. All DIY enthusiasts would enjoy any of these gifts any time of the year and hopefully put them to good use!

Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency write on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives. 
 

Later this spring, we’ll see farmers out in the fields digging into the earth to plant crops. The ground beneath us has incredible benefits. In fact, you can also harness the power of the earth to heat and cool your home renewably and efficiently.

Geothermal heating and cooling systems – also referred to as ground source heat pumps – use underground loops to take advantage of the constant temperature below ground to keep you comfortable. In the winter, the loop system removes heat from the ground and transfers it into your living space. In the summer, the loop system transfers warm energy from your home to be absorbed by the cooler ground.

A proven technology

Geothermal technology isn’t new; in fact, Iowa’s electric cooperatives have been promoting geothermal systems to members since the 1980s. Jim Sayers was one of those co-op employees who worked to educate members about the many benefits of geothermal throughout his 34-year career in communications and energy services at Corn Belt Power Cooperative. Headquartered in Humboldt, Corn Belt Power Cooperative is a generation and transmission electric cooperative owned by its member systems.

Sayers retired from the co-op in 2018 and found an opportunity to continue educating others about geothermal technology’s advantages as the cooperative engagement coordinator for the Geothermal Exchange Organization (GEO).

“You retire from a job, but you don’t retire from your passion. And my passion includes Iowa’s electric cooperatives and geothermal,” says Sayers.

Efficient, renewable energy

Geothermal systems are supremely efficient, renewable and will save homeowners substantially on heating and cooling costs, according to Sayers. The average savings of geothermal compared to an aging conventional HVAC system is around $1,400 annually, accounting for 40%-70% savings. And while the installation cost of a geothermal system is higher than conventional HVAC systems, it is so efficient that it can pay for itself in as little as five to seven years. Rates and incentives are important in determining payback.

“The good news is that there are federal and state tax credits available to help defray the installation costs,” says Sayers. “Currently, the federal tax credit for geothermal installation is 26%, and the Iowa tax credit is 20% of the federal credit, for a total tax credit of just over 31% of the geothermal installation cost in 2021.”

So why is the installation of a geothermal system higher than installing a conventional HVAC system? It comes down to the loops. An underground loop system needs to be trenched or drilled in your yard to take advantage of the earth’s constant temperature. Once installed, a water-based solution circulates through the loop system to transfer the heat energy. Electricity is needed to operate the heat pump, ground loop pump and distribution fan or pump.

Because it uses the earth, a geothermal system is the most efficient heating and cooling system. In fact, it is 400% more efficient than conventional HVAC systems. Geothermal systems are also known for having low maintenance costs.

Sayers says, “With all the attention on wind and solar these days, we often forget about geothermal as a renewable option. If a homeowner is considering investing in a solar array, I would encourage them to first think about energy efficiency measures and then consider installing a geothermal heating and cooling system because it uses stored, renewable thermal energy all day, every day, year-round.”

Resources for more information

The cost of installing a geothermal system will vary by location, the size of your home, equipment installed and local incentives. GEO, a non-profit trade association that promotes the manufacture, design and installation of geothermal heating and cooling systems, maintains a list of geothermal system professionals you can contact at www.geoexchange.org/directory/.

Learn more about geothermal at GEO’s consumer education website at www.geothermalforall.com. In addition to the tax credits, many of Iowa’s electric cooperatives offer special geothermal electric rates and incentives to make the system even more affordable. Contact the member services staff at your co-op to learn more.  

Erin Campbell is the director of communications for the Iowa Association of Electric Cooperatives.

____________

Graphic Key

1. Ground loop. The earth absorbs and stores almost 50% of the sun’s solar energy. Because of this, the temperature four to six feet below ground is consistently between 45-70 degrees F. A geothermal system transfers heat from one place to another using a ground loop field buried in the yard. The loop field circulates a water-based solution through a series of pipes.

2. Flow center. The flow center resides on your unit or a wall near the geothermal system. It pumps the water-based solution in the ground loop to the house or building unit to disperse heating or cooling.

3. Indoor heat pump. The loop field transfers heat to the home through an indoor geothermal heat pump kept indoors through forced air and radiant heating and cooling.

4. Forced-air heating and cooling. In a forced-air system, an air-handler disperses the ground’s heat to air in a home or building through ductwork and vents. In the cooling mode, the process is simply reversed.

5. Radiant heating (optional). Known as the most comfortable type of heating, radiant heating uses a series of pipes under a home or building’s floor to circulate warm water, which heats the entire space evenly.

6. Hot water. A hot water assist, known as a desuperheater, allows the system to capture excess heat to assist a water heater. This cuts hot water costs 25-40%. Geothermal systems can also provide 100% of the hot water needed for a home.

Graphic courtesy of Enertech Global.

Smart home devices can add comfort and convenience to your life, but the price tag for some of these devices can be another story. Since many smart home technologies are new and cutting-edge, the cost of owning these devices can sometimes be a major barrier. Luckily, there are several inexpensive options for smart home devices that won’t break the bank while still offering nearly all the same benefits.

Smart home speakers. Smart home speakers provide a wide range of features, such as playing music, calling friends or family, or even locating a misplaced smartphone. One of the most useful aspects of smart home speakers is that they act as a smart home hub for your other smart devices. Each smart speaker comes with a voice assistant, like Amazon Alexa or Google Assistant, which can be used to control additional smart devices in your home.

When choosing a smart home speaker, make sure your other smart devices are compatible with the system. For example, Google Assistant works best with other Google products, rather than Amazon or Apple products. Several smart home speakers, especially smaller, entry-level types like the Amazon Echo Dot and Google Home Mini, can cost as little as $30 or less. This makes them more affordable than the larger versions, like Amazon Echo and Google Home, while still offering nearly all the same features.

Smart plugs. This technology works by directly inserting the smart plug into an outlet, then plugging your device into the smart plug. This can make any device “smart” by connecting it to your Wi-Fi through the smart plug. They can also be used with smart home speakers. One of the best features of a smart plug is that it can help you reduce your monthly energy use. This can be done by programming automatic shut-off times to prevent devices from drawing energy when they’re not in use. There are plenty of inexpensive and well-performing smart plugs available under $20.

Smart light bulbs. Smart light bulbs can be controlled through your phone or by voice if connected to your smart home speaker. Some features include the ability to choose different lighting colors and shades, dimness levels and the ability to turn them on or off entirely. There is an extensive market for smart LED bulbs, but some of the less expensive options are the Wyze Bulb, the Lifx Mini and the Ikea Tradfri, with prices ranging from about $8 to $20 per bulb. For multi-bulb fixtures, an alternative to buying several smart bulbs is to buy a smart light switch to control the entire fixture.

If you’re looking to buy more than one smart home device, make sure the devices are compatible with your smart home hub (Google Home Mini with Google products, or Amazon Echo Dot with Amazon products) to ensure the best performance of all devices. As with any smart home device, access to a secure and stable Wi-Fi connection will be crucial to properly use the technology.  

Maria Kanevsky writes on consumer and cooperative affairs for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

If your home improvement budget calls for upgrading just one kitchen appliance this year, which appliance replacement will help reduce your energy bills the most?

It may seem like the oldest appliance should go first. That may make sense if you want the looks and features of a newer oven or dishwasher. But with most appliances, the energy savings you get from a new one will take several years to pay for itself with the energy saved.

The appliance replacement most likely to produce the greatest energy savings is your refrigerator. An older fridge can cost about $20 to run every month. Replacing an old fridge with a new ENERGY STAR®-rated model can cut that down to less than $5 a month. The ENERGY STAR® label certifies that the appliance saves energy. New refrigerators will include an additional label, the Energy Guide label, which shows how much energy it uses annually and compares that to the most and least efficient models available. It’s also possible to measure how much energy your fridge is using with a kWh meter. Energy auditors use these meters to measure energy use for common household appliances. Sometimes the energy use of an older fridge can be reduced by replacing the seal around the door. 

Style counts

When you’re looking to replace an old fridge, style counts. A top-freezer setup is the most efficient, while a lower-freezer unit offers medium savings, and a side-by-side style is the least energy efficient.

If your goal is to save money on your energy bill, resist the urge to keep the old fridge in the basement or garage – that won’t help you reduce your energy use. An old fridge in an uninsulated garage on a hot summer day can use a lot of energy. Maybe you just need more freezer space. If so, we recommend the most efficient freezer you can find. You can find recommendations on www.energystar.gov.

Second choice

If your current fridge is in good condition, another appliance you may want to consider upgrading is the dishwasher. With most of us spending more time at home these days, chances are you’re using your dishwasher more than you used to.

It’s smart to consider energy use as you look at replacing appliances because most new appliances use much less energy than they did in the past. Manufacturers have found innovative ways to reduce appliance energy use without sacrificing performance. The federal government began tightening appliance standards in the 1980s and has continued as technological innovations became more cost-effective.

As with any major purchase, be sure to read customer reviews for any brands and models you’re considering, and look for additional opportunities to save money, like an upcoming Presidents’ Day appliance sale.  

Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency write on energy efficiency topics for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

In many homes, about half of the conditioned air leaks to the outside every hour. The good news, especially if you don’t want to spend a lot of money, or if you’re hesitant to invite contractors into your home right now, is that you can seal air leaks on your own with a little time and effort. It will also be beneficial in the colder weather months.

Here are three steps to get you started. Keep in mind, there’s much more to learn about sealing your home than we can cover in this article, so consider researching trusted websites for additional tips and tutorials.

Step 1 : Find the leaks

The first step is a thorough visual search of the interior and exterior of the home. Look for gaps and holes in exterior walls, flooring and the ceiling. These will often occur where different building materials meet, such as the top of cement foundation walls or around windows and doors. Another common source of air leaks is where pipes or wiring penetrate a wall, floor or ceiling. Ductwork located in unheated crawl spaces or attics can also contain air leaks.

Exterior doors and windows that open deserve your attention. Open each door or window and place a dollar bill between the door or window sash and the frame. If you can pull the bill out easily when the door or window is closed again, the seal is not tight enough. Also, a window that rattles when it’s closed or when it’s windy probably isn’t sealed sufficiently.

The best way to find all air leaks is to hire an energy auditor to do a blower door test.  The blower door is a large fan that is mounted in a doorway to depressurize the house. The auditor can then find the leaks and may even be able to recommend ways to seal them. 

It’s also possible to conduct your own whole-home pressure test. The Department of Energy provides detailed instructions at www.energy.gov/energysaver/weatherize/air-sealing-your-home/detecting-air-leaks.

Step 2 : Gather the materials you’ll need

Here’s a quick list of materials to get you started:

• Caulk: You’ll need a caulk gun ($4+) and caulk ($4 to $10). We recommend indoor/outdoor waterproof silicone or latex caulk that is water-soluble until it cures and is paintable when dry.
• Expanding spray foam: One can typically costs $4 to $6. While it’s an effective way to plug leaks, it can be a messy job. 
• Weather stripping: There’s a wide variety of weather-stripping options made of vinyl, metal and felt, or open-cell foam that works for most situations. Prices vary depending on type and length of the materials.
• Pre-cut foam socket sealers: A pack of 24 sealers typically costs about $3.
• Chimney plug balloon: Prices range from $50 to $90. You may need a chimney plug balloon if your chimney flu doesn’t seal well. Buy a square or round one to match the shape of your chimney flu.
• Adhesive plastic window insulation sheets: Prices range from $2 to $14 depending on size. You may need insulation sheets later in the year for windows that can’t be sealed and don’t have storm windows.

Step 3: Do it!

If you are unfamiliar with how to apply any of these materials, consider watching online tutorial videos. Sealing air leaks is one of the best ways to boost your home’s energy efficiency.   

For areas where sunlight can come in through windows for natural warmth in the winter, choose deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall – with high, spreading crowns that can provide maximum shading during summer. You also can plant low shrubs near your foundation to help insulate it from cold winds from the north and west 

During warm-weather months, solar heat absorbed through your home’s windows and roof increases your cooling costs, but – depending on the location and orientation of the trees and your house – you can gain significant energy savings by planting shade trees. In summer, a tree’s shade can cool surrounding air temperatures by as much as 9 degrees, and air temperatures directly under trees can be as much as 25 degrees cooler. This means that if your home currently is unshaded, you could be able to cut summer air-conditioning costs by 15 to 50 percent. 

Although a slow-growing shade tree may require many years of growth before it shades your roof, it generally will live longer than a fast-growing tree. Also, because slow-growing trees often have deeper roots and stronger branches, they’re less prone to breakage by windstorms or heavy snow loads. Slow-growing trees also can be more drought resistant than fast-growing trees.

Plant trees far enough away from your home so that when they mature, their root systems won’t contact the foundation – and branches can’t damage the roof. Also make sure trees won’t grow into your electric co-op’s power lines – and that branches damaged during a storm can’t fall into the lines.

A 6- to 8-foot deciduous tree planted near your home will begin shading windows the first year. Depending on the species and your home’s design, the tree should start shading the roof in 5 to 10 years.

Also consider shorter trees, shrubs and groundcover plants to shade the ground and pavement around the home, reducing heat radiation and cooling the air before it reaches your home's walls and windows. Use a large bush or row of shrubs to shade a sidewalk or driveway, plant a hedge to shade a sidewalk and build a trellis for climbing vines to shade a patio.

In addition, shading the coils of your outdoor air-conditioning unit or heat pump has the potential to modestly reduce energy demand. But if done improperly, there could be a net increase in energy use. Researchers from the Florida Solar Energy Center found that effective shading of an air-conditioning unit could yield energy savings of 6 percent, but an improper setup could result in a drop in efficiency of up to 15 percent. This drop in efficiency happens when vegetation blocks proper airflow to the unit or traps too much heat near it. Plan about 3 feet of clearance – or whatever the manufacturer of the equipment recommends. Also be sure to frequently check the size of plants near the unit, because during the growing season the plants can creep closer to the system and interfere with proper air circulation.

For details on using shade trees to save energy, check the U.S. Department of Energy’s Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy website; go to its Energy Savers Landscape page at http://energy.gov/public-services/homes/landscaping. You’ll also find information about planting windbreaks and landscaping for water conservation.

“We have the tools, knowledge and commitment to assist our members. Saving energy can also help shave peak loads,” says Manuela Heyn, an electric cooperative energy services representative.

Heyn conducted her first energy audits with very basic tools: a flashlight, laser temperature gun and candy thermometer (to check water heater output temperature). She now uses more sophisticated devices such as thermal imaging equipment.

During on-site audits, she uses all her senses to find abnormalities, such as hot water line leaks, running well pumps, damaged power cords, construction issues, disconnected ducts and lack of insulation.

She also checks household systems many homeowners seldom see or consider unless they spend time with their HVAC technician.

“One home I visited had an overflowing air handler water pan and extreme fungal growth,” Heyn says. “Some members don’t realize that their HVAC systems have an air filter. When they are dirty, they can freeze up the system and cause an increase in power consumption.”

Expert advice

Many of the electric co-ops that provide energy audits support professional development for energy advisors that includes exposure to building science concepts. Training focused on both new construction techniques designed to improve energy efficiency and retrofitting options for upgraded older housing are common. 

“By providing a picture of how energy is used in the home, people can concentrate on what can save them the most energy,” says Eileen Wysocki, an energy auditor for electric cooperatives. 

Wysocki starts with a baseload estimate of energy use based upon meter data. Talking with the member-owner, she learns about household size and behavior patterns and considers seasonal factors like heat tape used to prevent water lines from freezing. 

Time spent with an energy auditor can help a member avoid ineffective upgrades or the purchase of outsized equipment that might not improve overall comfort or produce savings through recoverable costs. 

Offering solutions

An energy advisor’s home visit usually gets far more attention than a brief discussion about energy efficiency at a co-op district meeting, a county fair or other community event. Most audits are initiated following a request tied to high bill concerns, when members are really motivated to control their energy costs. 

On average, a member can reduce their energy use by about 5 percent if they follow the low-cost or no-cost advice given during the audit. Additional savings of up to 20 percent can be achieved by addressing issues with big-ticket items, such as HVAC replacement, attic insulation or major duct repair discovered during the audit.

Improved energy efficiency not only helps the co-op control peak demand and wholesale power costs, it also provides opportunities to discuss services available to members. Those include rebates, weatherization programs and payment assistance.  

To learn more about energy audits available to you, contact your local electric cooperative.   

Derrill Holly writes on cooperative issues for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association. 

Buying the latest energy efficiency technologies has become an increasingly common way for people to try to reduce their monthly energy bills, whether they’re homeowners or renters. This rings true especially during the deep heat of summer, when higher energy bills result from air-conditioning units working overtime to keep homes and apartments cool and comfortable. 

New and emerging technologies hitting the marketplace as the latest and “best” energy-saving products continue to promise innovative ways to effectively manage and reduce your home’s energy consumption. Some work – and some don’t.

You need to exercise caution in evaluating these products, so take advantage of the experts at your local Touchstone Energy® cooperative, agencies such as Energy Star® and independent testing labs for help. Once you do your homework, you may find that the tried-and-true methods of making your home more energy efficient are the ones you should tackle first.

Consider, for example, how one of the most effective energy savers of our time, the programmable thermostat, developed over the years. You may think that it was invented during the last 25 years or so, but in reality the “clock-thermostat” was introduced more than 100 years ago by a company now known as Honeywell. It combined a clock and a thermostat to offer automatic control of setting a lower temperature at night and a higher one in the morning.

During the 1970s, basic programmable thermostats let you choose multiple daily programs during weekdays and different ones on the weekends. And if you zoom ahead to today, you can find a $100 smart thermostat that adapts to your family’s lifestyle and is controllable from your smartphone. By shaving 10 to 15 percent off an average home’s electric bill, smart thermostats easily will pay for themselves in energy savings, which makes them a smart choice.

Obviously, not all technologies live up to their hype, and some even come with side effects that can overshadow their benefits. In addition, some of the “magic” devices only stay on the market long enough for their inventors to make a quick buck and disappear.

On the other hand, there are some new products today that merit your attention. One may be the Mistbox Air Conditioner Cooler, which claims to save its customers 20 to 38 percent on their electricity bills. This technology requires a simple installation on a home’s outdoor air-conditioning unit and works by spraying a mist to precool the air around the unit. In using this evaporative cooling method (which has been a part of industrial cooling applications for decades), your air conditioner theoretically doesn’t have to work as hard to pump cool air into your home. Interestingly, the Mistbox is sold as a subscription service that includes the hardware. You can read more at mistbox.com.

Iowa’s electric cooperatives know it’s important to help their member-owners navigate emerging technologies and provide the most cost-effective and beneficial energy management solutions. So, it’s no surprise that they recommend investing in tried and true tips such as these before exploring other possibilities:

• Add caulk or weather stripping to seal air leaks around leaky doors and windows.
• Increase insulation where necessary, but start in the attic, where more insulation will have the greatest effect and the space is accessible. 
• Clean and change the filters on your heating and air-conditioning system regularly to make your unit run more efficiently.
• In spring and summer, set your ceiling fans to run in a counterclockwise direction to create a cool breeze. During autumn and winter, set your fans to turn clockwise to redistribute warm air throughout the rooms.
• Install a programmable or smart thermostat.

Should your next car be an electric vehicle? The answer could depend on where you live.

At this time, electric vehicles account for just 1.2 percent of the U.S. vehicle market, but sales are booming; they increased 25 percent last year. And the vehicles are getting better and cheaper as researchers improve the batteries that power them. Here’s a guide to help you decide if an electric car is for you.

Deal with the distance myth

The first thing to realize about electric cars is that they can travel more than enough miles for you on a single charge, even if you live way out in the wide-open countryside. Of course, your range will be affected by your driving style and how much you use the car’s heater and air-conditioning.

To test this idea for your situation, keep track of your actual daily use of the car you drive now, suggests Brian Sloboda, a program and product manager at the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

“If you’re an insurance salesman, you’re logging a lot of miles, so an electric car’s not going to be for you,” he says, noting that a typical range for an electric car today is over 100 miles, and ranges of 150 to 250 miles are becoming common. “But if you look at how many miles you drive in a day, for most people in the United States – even in rural areas – the number is under 40 miles per day. So, if your car has a range of 120 miles, that’s a lot of wiggle room.”

According to the Federal Highway Administration, the average American drives 25 miles a day, and for rural areas, the average is 34 miles a day.

Sloboda says another reason it’s worth thinking realistically about your daily mileage comes from the most likely way an electric car would be refueled. When an electric car is done driving for the day, you can plug it in to recharge overnight. Essentially, you’re “topping off the gas tank” while you sleep, giving you a fully-charged battery every morning.

There are three ways to charge an electric car:

• Level 1 – The simplest charging technique is to plug the car into a standard home outlet. That will charge the battery at a rate that will add from 2 to 5 miles to its range each hour. That’s pretty slow, but Sloboda notes the battery might start the charging session already partially charged, depending on how far it’s driven that day.
• Level 2 – Faster charging will require a professional installer to upgrade a circuit in the garage to a higher voltage for a unit that will add between 10 and 25 miles of range for each hour of charging – a rate that would fully charge the battery overnight. Sloboda says installing a Level 2 charger in a house or garage would run $500 to $800 for the equipment, plus at least that much for the labor. You can also use a timer to charge the vehicle in the middle of the night when electric consumption is typically lower. 
• Level 3 – A DC fast-charging system requires specialized equipment more suited to public charging stations; it will bring a car battery up to 80 percent of capacity in 30 minutes. However, Sloboda warns this high-speed technique only should be used for special long-distance driving, since it can degrade the battery over time. That’s also why DC chargers shouldn’t be used to bring a battery up to a 100 percent charge.

Take advantage of off-peak electric rates

What you pay to charge your electric car could also depend on where you live, says Sloboda. He advises checking to see whether your local electric cooperative offers a lower rate to charge an electric vehicle overnight, when the utility has a lower demand for electricity.

“It’s different depending on where you are in the country,” says Sloboda. Some local co-ops have fairly stable electric demand throughout a typical day, so they may not offer a special electric vehicle rate. He adds, “There are areas of the country where the on-peak, off-peak difference in price is extreme,” so it might make financial sense for the utility to offer an overnight charging rate.

Another factor affecting the economics of an electric car is, of course, the original cost of the vehicle. Today, the prices of many electric cars fall into the luxury or near-luxury price classes, but industry projections put their cost coming down to match conventional vehicles by about the year 2025. Today, the average electric car costs close to $40,000, compared with less than $30,000 for one with an internal combustion engine.

Consider the environment

For many people, one of the biggest selling points for electric cars is their effect on the environment. 

The sources of electricity for a local utility vary across the country – some areas depend heavily on coal-fired power plants, others use larger shares of solar or wind energy. The Union of Concerned Scientists analyzed all the local electric utility fuel mixes, and determined that for most of the country, electric vehicles have much less of an effect on the environment than conventional vehicles. That study shows that in the middle part of the country, driving an electric vehicle has the equivalent environmental benefits of driving a gasoline-powered car that gets 41-50 miles per gallon. For much of the rest of the country, it’s like driving a car that gets well over 50 miles per gallon.

“Seventy-five percent of people now live in places where driving on electricity is cleaner than a 50 MPG gasoline car,” says the report.

On the other hand, some folks worry that the manufacturing process for the batteries in electric cars may cause more pollution than the production of a conventional vehicle – and there are concerns about recycling or disposing of old batteries.

Sloboda concedes that electric vehicles aren’t for everybody – yet. One limit to their growth is that no major carmaker offers a fully electric version of the most popular vehicle sold in America: the pickup truck. This applies to SUVs too.

Sloboda says there’s no technological barrier to making an electric truck. He even suggests possible advantages: a heavy battery in the bottom would lower the center of gravity for better handling, and at a remote worksite the battery could run power tools.

“Within the next 24 months I believe there will be a credible pickup truck on the market,” says Sloboda. “It’s just a matter of time.”

Paul Wesslund writes on consumer and cooperative affairs for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the national trade association representing more than 900 local electric cooperatives. From growing suburbs to remote farming communities, electric co-ops serve as engines of economic development for 42 million Americans across 56 percent of the nation’s landscape.

If you want a really powerful car – maybe one that looks like a race car, accelerates from 0 to 60 mph in less than 3 seconds and has a top speed just under 200 miles per hour – consider an electric vehicle like the outrageous NIO EP9. 

You’re right, that’s probably overkill – especially since the NIO EP9 would cost you more than a million dollars. But this visionary electric car does illustrate how fast technology is moving in the electric vehicle industry.

For most of us here on earth, the “average” electric car offers practicality and a respectable kick. The Chevy Bolt, for example, with a price tag around $38,000 – including a fast charger, but before subtracting the benefits of federal or state tax incentives – makes the jump to 60 mph in around 7 seconds, which is a little quicker than the usual U.S. car.

There’s a built-in reason electric cars hold their own in performance, says Brian Sloboda, a program and product manager at the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

“In an electric car, all of the power is going into the wheels. With a gas-powered car, a lot of power is lost inside the mechanical engine and drivetrain,” says Sloboda. “If you sit in an electric car and the driver smashes down on the accelerator, you are going to be thrown into the back of your seat, much more so than many gasoline cars.

“In March, Goodyear announced a new tire that would hold up better under the “instant torque from electric motors.”

But wait, there’s more.

“The battery is at the bottom of the car, so you have a lower center of gravity, which means you can take the corners crisper,” says Sloboda. “If you do a lot of driving in the hills or mountains, they’re fun.”

Electric cars aren’t glorified golf carts anymore

Electric vehicles hold a lot of other surprises, compared to the traditional view of them as being a toy or a hobbyist’s project built from a golf cart chassis and motor. Electric co-ops across the country are hearing interest from their members.

About 700,000 electric vehicles drive on U.S. roads today, according to an analysis by CoBank, a financier for electric co-ops. That number could jump to 3 million in the next 5 years, says CoBank. The U.S. Department of Energy’s Energy Information Administration projects electric vehicle sales growing from about 1 percent of the market today to 12 percent by 2050.

Carmakers are pushing those trends. Last October, General Motors said it would launch 20 new electric vehicles by 2023. In January, Ford announced plans to invest $11 billion in a lineup of 40 hybrid and electric vehicles by 2022. In March, Volkswagen said it had secured $25 billion in electric car batteries and technology and plans to scale that up to $60 billion.

One of the most radical new notions about electric vehicles, advises Sloboda, is to think of them not as cars or trucks, but as consumer electronics. Some auto manufacturers even showed their latest models at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas earlier this year.

“The internal combustion engine is a perfected technology, so those cars aren’t improving at a very rapid pace,” says Sloboda. “But electric vehicles areevolving at a very rapid pace, so you’re really kind of comparing it to a cell phone or a computer.”

What that means for consumers, says Sloboda, is that they might consider leasing an electric car rather than buying one, to make it easier to trade in the car to take advantage of the annual improvements in battery life and other features.

Other unexpected benefits of electric vehicles that could speed their acceptance, says Sloboda, include range, maintenance and more competitive costs.

Will you run out of juice?

The electric vehicle industry has a term for the biggest roadblock to its growth: range anxiety. But Sloboda says the fear of getting stranded far from home with no way to refuel may be overblown, and it’s getting less concerning.

“The range on the electric cars you can buy today is perfectly sufficient to cover almost everyone’s daily commute,” he says. While electric cars may not work for someone regularly commuting 100 miles a day, “For most people, even in rural areas, that number is under 40 miles a day. Most electric cars on the market today have between a 120 mile range and some of them are getting more than 200 miles.”

The Federal Highway Administration reports the average American drives 37 miles a day.

Fill ’er up overnight

Electric car acceptance doesn’t need to wait for a network or charging stations to appear around the country, says Sloboda. He sees refueling more like this: You plug your car (actually, the charger) into an outlet in your garage at the end of each day, and by morning the car is fully charged.

“No more having to stop and fill up your tank once or twice a week,” he says. “You can charge it at home while you’re sleeping and wake up to a full tank every single day.”

Electric cars can also save on maintenance, says Sloboda.

“With an electric vehicle, you don’t have oil changes, and you don’t really have transmission fluid changes,” he says.

And regenerative braking in electric cars uses the electric motor to slow the car rather than relying only on brake pad friction. Sloboda says, “A lot of electric vehicle owners are saying they’ve never replaced their brakes because you just don’t have the physical wear and tear on the brake pad.” 

Costs are coming down

Sloboda says electric car costs today make them a luxury car, but that’s changing. As electric car research, development and production increases, costs will be coming down. Tax breaks for electric cars at the federal level and in some states can reduce costs by several thousand dollars. And Sloboda notes that electricity costs less per mile than gasoline.

But one of the main reasons drivers buy electric cars is for the environment. Sloboda says an electric car “is cleaner than a gas-powered car – no doubt about it.”

Another advantage of an electric car, he adds, is that “you’re powering it with electricity from your local electric co-op.”  

Paul Wesslund writes on cooperative issues for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

Did you know that your local electric cooperative pays its power supplier for the amount of energy used, as well as a demand rate for how much energy is being used at a given time? Since electricity can’t be stored, the power supplier must simultaneously ramp up power generation as it’s needed, which can be very expensive when we all want to kick on our air conditioners during the late afternoon on hot summer days.

Unfortunately, those high fees the co-op pays to the power supplier for high demand must be passed along to you, as a cooperative member-owner. But here’s some good news: By shifting electricity use away from the peak demand hours of 4-9 p.m. on summer weekdays, when the air-conditioning systems in most buildings are running and families are arriving home and using household appliances, you can help the co-op avoid incurring peak demand charges.

Take a hiatus from housework

Avoiding peak energy costs is a good reason to put some chores on hold, at least until power demand dips. For example, consider some of the jobs one kilowatt-hour of electricity can do – before you use it: 

• Wash three loads of laundry
• Complete one dryer cycle
• Vacuum rugs twice in an average home
• Iron five shirts
• Run three cycles in a loaded dishwasher

All of these activities easily could be done in the morning or late at night, outside of peak demand times.

Set the thermostat at 78

Your central air-conditioning system or heat pump can play a huge part in controlling your energy use, even if family comfort is a top priority. In fact, your central air conditioning can use as much as one kilowatt-hour of electricity for each 12-minute cycle of cooling.

At 78 degrees, most people are comfortable outside, so why not inside? They’re usually not sensitive enough to notice a small difference in air temperature, but the closer your air conditioner or heat pump setting is to the outdoor temperature, the less your unit will run. 

Each degree of temperature difference represents a percentage of the total cooling load. So, when temperatures are in the high 80s, you could reduce your cooling demand 10-15 percent for each degree you set your thermostat above 75 degrees.

Join the fan club 

Fans offer an economical alternative to air-conditioning on mild days, and they can pitch in for comfort as temperatures climb. The key is evaporative cooling; a little air blowing across a room helps bring down humidity levels and allows you to raise the thermostat a few degrees.  

Set ceiling fans to blow air downward, instead of pulling warmer air upward to get the most value in your cooling zone. Table and ceiling fans will offer more comfort if used to circulate air through areas where you’re most active. 

A ceiling fan can operate for about 13 hours per kilowatt-hour of power, while a floor or table fan (depending on size) might run for 10 hours. Turn off fans when you leave a room, because they cool people – not space. 

Focus on kitchen comfort

When it comes to heat and humidity, changing your kitchen activities presents a wellspring of opportunities to reduce your household energy demand throughout the day. 

Appliances on your countertops or stashed in your pantry could keep you cooler and use less energy. Microwaves use about 60 percent as much energy as full-size ovens, and a toaster oven, pressure cooker or induction cooker consumes about half as much power. Because they’re generally designed to heat food more efficiently in less space, the surface areas available for heating are smaller, reducing waste heat and keeping kitchens cooler.

Finally, replace the old lightbulbs in the kitchen (and everywhere else in your home too) with energy-efficient – and cooler – LEDs.

Your co-op can help

For more warm-weather energy-saving ideas, visit your local electric cooperative’s website or call the office. If you don’t know how to get in touch with your co-op, go to www.livingwithenergyiniowa.com and click on Go to My Co-op at the top; then follow the instructions on the next page.

Also, be sure to check the Touchstone Energy® Cooperatives website at touchstoneenergy.com. Go to the Together We Save section for everything from quick tips to an interactive Home Energy Adventure that will help you analyze and improve your home’s energy efficiency.  

Derrill Holly writes on cooperative issues for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the Arlington, Va.-based service arm of the nation’s 900-plus consumer-owned, not-for-profit electric cooperatives.

In addition to homeowners and businesses handling their own installations, many electric cooperatives are offering community solar programs as an alternative to purchasing a rooftop solar array. This helps keep costs down and puts the burden of maintaining and operating the system on the co-op. The question that remains for many is: How do solar panels actually generate electricity? 

Solar panels convert sunlight to usable electricity

The solar panels you see on street signs or rooftops consist of small, connected photovoltaic (PV) cells – “photo” meaning light and “voltaic” meaning the production of electricity. These cells consist of two layers of a semi-conducting material, typically silicon, which are infused with additional elements giving the top layer a negative charge and the bottom layer a positive charge. These two silicon layers are also sandwiched between several other coatings, including a glass casing, to optimize the PV cell’s energy production and provide protection from weather and flying debris.

Follow the journey of solar energy

The sun emits massive amounts of solar energy each day in the form of photons, which are small particles of light. When these photons “collide” hard enough with PV cells, electrons are knocked loose from atoms in the top silicon layer of the cells, leaving gaps to be filled by electrons from the bottom layer. Because of the electric field created by the two silicon layers, the loose electrons circulate through the cells in a single direction – out toward the metal sides of the solar panel – creating electricity with a direct current (DC).

The newly generated electricity flows out of the panels, through conductive wire and into a power inverter system that converts the power from DC power to the alternating current (AC) power used in homes and businesses. 

The alternating current flows from the inverter to the breaker box and is distributed through circuits as needed. Solar energy that goes unused will flow through your electric meter and back onto the electric grid. 

Cooperative solar is booming

Electric cooperatives are leading the electric utility industry in the development of “community” solar. This shared solar model allows co-ops to develop an array for member-owners who can either purchase the power or lease panels. A community solar program makes solar more affordable and equitable for co-op members who are unable to install rooftop solar because of tree shading, renting rather than owning or a number of other factors.

Rooftop solar may be an option for you

If the costs make sense and you have a suitable south-facing roof with an adequate structure, a rooftop solar array can be a great way to reduce your monthly energy bill and help the environment. However, you must be aware of the payback period for your initial investment and your responsibilities related to a solar installation. For example, by law you must talk with your local electric cooperative before installing solar PV on your home – and find out what the co-op’s policies are regarding member-owned generation.  

Kaley Lockwood writes on cooperative issues for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association.

“It’s amazing how much comfort you can provide by spending a few dollars,” says Brian Sloboda, program manager for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association. “You’re going to increase your quality of life.”

Knowing what your house needs is job one. Your heating-and-cooling system, appliances, lightbulbs, air leaks and insulation can affect not only how your home is behaving, but also how much you’re paying to keep it all running.

Boost your attic insulation

What you spend to upgrade your attic insulation will depend on multiple variables, including the type and depth of insulation you choose – fiberglass, cellulose, batts or loose fill – as well as the size of the attic space and the contractor’s labor costs (unless you decide to do the job yourself). Costs can range from about $1,300 to $2,000, depending on your home’s style.

The greatest benefit of adding attic insulation is that you’ll reduce your energy bills by keeping heated and cooled air in your living spaces. In addition, you can add insulation yourself with proper tools, safety gear and precautions, but it’s a job many people feel is best left to professionals.

What’s in your attic now?

A peek in most attics will reveal the tried-and-true materials commonly used to insulate homes: fiberglass, cellulose, mineral wool or spray-foam insulation. Regardless of type, the keys to effective insulation are the same – getting the right R-value for your home’s insulation, proper installation and air sealing.

• Fiberglass: This is the insulation that looks like cotton candy, commonly seen in long strips – called batts or rolls – between (and, if it’s deep enough, on top of) wall studs and ceiling joists. It might be pink, white or yellow, and it also comes in a loose-fill form, often blown into attic spaces. Made of tiny glass fibers, it can be uncomfortable to touch; wear gloves and a mask while handling it.
• Cellulose: Grayish in color, cellulose is a loose-fill insulation that can be blown in between attic joists. It’s chemically treated to be resistant to moisture, fire, insects and nesting rodents. Over time, it can settle, reducing its insulation value and requiring an additional layer to bring it back to the recommended R-value for your home.
• Mineral wool: Like fiberglass, this comes in batts, rolls or loose-fill forms. It’s made from natural and recycled materials and often appears greenish-brown in color.
• Spray-in foam: More expensive than other types of insulation, spray-in foam is becoming a more common choice because it provides more insulation and better air sealing. Sprayed on the interior of your roof, it wraps the attic into your home’s envelope. “It’s more expensive than blowing in another 6 inches of fiberglass or cellulose, but it’s certainly worth getting prices,” says Touchstone Energy’s Alan Shedd. “For new construction or an addition, it’s a no-brainer.”

When you climb up to look at how much insulation you’ve got in the attic, be sure to protect yourself. Wear gloves, eye protection and a dust mask if you’ll be handling any insulation. Bring a flashlight, so you can check your insulation in every nook and cranny and also see where you’re stepping. Only walk where you’re sure of secure footing, so you don’t drop through the ceiling below.   

How much insulation do you need?

Insulation is measured by R-value – its resistance to conductive heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness.

R-value depends on the type of insulation, its thickness and its density, and the R-value of some insulations also depends on temperature, aging and moisture accumulation. When calculating the R-value of a multilayered installation, add the R-values of the individual layers.

In Iowa, you should have insulation rated at R49-R60 in your attic.

Use this easy formula to figure out how much insulation you already have

Even if your home is only 8 to 10 years old, it may not have enough insulation in the attic. If you live in a much older home, it’s pretty likely that adding more insulation will help reduce your cooling and heating bills.

Look in the attic, figure out what kind of insulation you have and measure the insulation’s depth. Then use this formula to estimate the insulation's R-value is by multiplying the factor shown (below) times the depth.

The formula is (Factor) x Depth = R-Value. So, if you find 6 inches of lightweight fiberglass insulation in your attic, the calculation would be 2.5 x 6 = 15.  This means you have insulation rated at R-15 in your attic, which is way less than it should be for maximum energy efficiency.

Factors for to use for various insulation types

• Loose fiberglass (yellow, pink or white): 2.5
• Fiberglass batts (yellow, pink or white): 3.2
• Rock wool (dense gray or near-white; may have black specks): 2.8
• Cellulose (small gray pieces or fibers from newsprint): 3.7
• Granules (yellow, pink or white): 2.7

Last month, we offered tips on how to hire a good contractor, but it’s smart to realize that afterthe hiring is complete, contractors need to be managed.

First decide who will be the main contact with your contractor. Clear communication is critical, because a renovation that includes energy efficiency improvements comes with extra challenges. A single point of contact will help avoid confusion, conflicts and cost overruns.

Second – and before the work starts – have a discussion with your contractor about quality. You want the contractor to know you’ll be carefully overseeing the work and that there may be others involved in this oversight, such as building inspectors, your electric cooperative or an independent energy auditor.

 You can discuss your perception of the standards of a professional, high-quality job. And you can agree on the points at which the contractor will pause, so you or someone you designate can review the work. At a minimum, an inspection should take place before you make any interim payments.

Here are a few examples of interim review points:

• The building envelope should be properly sealed before insulation is installed, because air leaks increase energy use and reduce comfort. 
• Replacement windows should be properly flashed and sealed before siding and trim are installed, which prevents moisture problems and air leaks.
• Some insulation installations can be inspected before they’re sealed behind walls or ceilings.

Almost all efficiency measures require some kind of final inspection. For example, infrared thermometers can show voids in blown insulation, and you can visually inspect fiberglass batts to ensure there are no air gaps and the batts are not compressed.

Projects involving heating and cooling require special attention. According to Energy Star®, nearly half of all heating and cooling systems are not installed correctly, which often causes uneven temperature distribution throughout a home and higher energy bills. Forced-air systems typically have poorly balanced supply and return air delivery that can often be improved. The installer can show you the airflow measurement at each register, and a duct blaster test can identify and quantify duct leakage.

When you review the work, it may be helpful to take photos or to bring in an energy auditor. Be sure to have these inspections outlined in the contract and discussed beforehand, so the contractor is comfortable. 

It will be tempting to add “just one more thing” along the way, and your contractor may agree a change is simple and possible within the agreed-upon timeframe and original bid. However, contractors and customers often miscommunicate about change orders and end up disagreeing about additional costs when the project is completed. So, before you make any changes, be sure to get a written cost quote. If it’s significant, you can weigh the cost against the benefit of the change. 

It’s also a good idea to maintain good records as the project progresses. These records could be helpful for building inspectors or to qualify for rebates or tax credits. 

When the renovation is complete, it may be tempting to sign the check, shake hands and breathe a sigh of relief that it’s all over. Depending on the size and complexity of the project, it may be worth the extra step of having a final inspection by a licensed energy auditor. 

Once you confirm that the work is 100 percent complete, you can write a check for the final payment – and then sit back and enjoy your revitalized, more energy-efficient home!  

Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen work for Collaborative Efficiency. For more details on managing a renovation contractor, visit www.collaborativeefficiency.com/energytips.

You’ll need that knowledge so you can judge the solutions each contractor proposes. Some products or methods that are sold as effective energy efficiency solutions may not work as well as they claim, or they may be too expensive relative to the energy savings they provide.

It’s important to talk to your local building department to find out if your project requires a permit and inspections. Some contractors may suggest doing the work without a permit, but unpermitted work can cause problems if you need to file an insurance claim down the road or when you get ready to sell your home.

You can also use your newfound knowledge to ask the right questions of prospective contractors. Ask about the products to be installed, the energy savings they should yield and whether they’ll improve comfort. Because energy efficiency installations and construction are specialized, some measures inadvertently may be installed incorrectly – unless the installer has experience and hopefully the appropriate training and certification.

Finding a contractor can be a challenge, especially in rural areas. Use your online search engine to locate a contractor close to you. If you’re in a sparsely populated area, the right contractor may be located an hour or more away. Your electric co-op may be able to provide a list of approved contractors in your area. You can also check with a local energy auditor for contractor names.

You may end up choosing between a small specialty contractor and a larger general contractor. Either way, it’s crucial to hire someone with a contractor’s license, a local business license and three types of insurance: liability, personal injury and workers’ compensation. Check references from past customers to verify the contractor has a solid history of cost-control, timeliness, good communication and excellent results – including significant energy savings. Be careful: You may learn too late that your lowest bidder will push to increase the price after the job has begun. 

As you evaluate contractors, quality should be an even more important consideration than price. Poor-quality energy efficiency work will not deliver maximum savings.

Once you’ve settled on a contractor, be sure to get a written contract. It should include “as built” details and specifications that include energy performance ratings you’ve researched ahead of time, such as:

• The name of the individual doing the installation.
• A specific R-value, if you’re insulating.
• The make, model, AFUE (annual fuel use efficiency) and COP (coefficient of performance) ratings if you’re replacing a furnace. Also ask that an efficiency test be conducted before and after the work.
• The make, model and EER (energy efficient ratio) rating if you’re replacing an air conditioner. Some contractors also can check for duct leakage in the supply and return ductwork – and offer an add-on estimate for sealing the ducts.
• Warranties on products being installed – and what company handles warranty claims.
• Whether the contractor must pay for the necessary building permits.

Finally, be cautious about pre-paying. Keep the upfront payment as low as possible, set benchmarks the contractor must meet to receive the next payment(s) and make sure a reasonable amount of the payment is not due until the project is finished, building inspections are completed and you’re fully satisfied. Also ask about the contractor’s callback policy, in case you discover problems later. If you don’t feel qualified to approve the project, you could require testing or inspection by an independent energy auditor.  

This column was written by Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency.

If you’ve lived in your home for several years – and the heating system was in place when you bought the house – it may be hard for you to determine if you’ve gotten your money’s worth out of your current equipment. But consider this: Energy Star® recommends replacing a furnace or boiler that’s more than 15 years old (or a heat pump or air conditioner that’s more than 12 years old) with a new, high-efficiency unit.

Here are some other clues that it’s time to go shopping for a new heating system:

• Your heating bills are going up because the system is using more energy than in past years.
• The equipment needs to be repaired frequently – often for a different reason each time.
• Some of the rooms in your house are too hot or too cold, no matter how you adjust the airflow through the ducts.
• The system just doesn’t seem to be working properly, even after a recent service call.
• The air in your home is exceptionally dry during the heating months.

Unfortunately, you often can’t see what causes a heating system to waste energy. Beyond obvious clues such as a sagging duct that blows heated air into the basement, a noisy fan motor on a forced-air furnace or a leaking fuel line on a boiler, most of the energy-wasting problems will be hidden from view – so call a professional technician for an expert analysis.  

Adding or replacing insulation, using efficient lightbulbs and sealing air leaks around windows and doors are common energy efficiency tips offered by electric cooperatives – and they do save energy. But many times, these traditional energy-saving tips don’t take advantage of a growing trend in our lives: electronics, appliances and other devices that communicate to save energy. 

According to the PEW Research Institute, 95 percent of U.S. families have a cell phone and 77 percent of Americans own a smart phone. Nearly 80 percent of adults own a laptop or desktop computer, while approximately half own tablets. Consumer electronics, coupled with the growing array of smart home appliances and advancing technologies, have slowly but steadily changed our homes and lifestyles.

You can control everything from a thermostat or a Crock-Pot to LED lightbulbs and your home entertainment system with a smart phone app. Manufacturers are designing these devices with the ability to run them from anywhere that has Internet access or a cell signal.

The increased reliance on our many devices has new implications for home energy use and efficiency. What if all of these devices could be tied together to produce a communication system that helps you save on your monthly electric bill? What if it was easy? What if it actually worked? In conjunction with the nation’s national laboratories, utilities across the country are working on these communication systems.

In one scenario, you would instruct your home to either maximize energy savings or maximize comfort. This would be communicated to the electric utility as it planned to meet peak energy demand. (Peak energy demand refers to the time of the day when the most energy is consumed and when the cost of electricity is most expensive.)

By using existing communication channels, your home will be able to automatically tell your electric cooperative and, perhaps, the co-op’s power supplier, how much it’s able to reduce energy consumption. The appliances inside your home will determine how to do this without your being inconvenienced or uncomfortable. Appliances will learn your family’s behavior and living patterns. Thermostats such as the Nest or Ecobee do that now by learning the routines of the people living in a home and adjusting the thermostat to save energy.

During a peak period, for example, the thermostat could raise the home’s temperature a few degrees in the summer. However, if someone happens to be home, the system will instead look for savings by slightly dimming the lights, delaying the defrost cycle on the refrigerator or slowing the pool pump. The system is designed to help both you and the co-op save energy and money, and the process will be invisible to you.

It will take years for communication systems like this to show up on store shelves, even though the necessary communication systems are already in place. These systems will depend on the Internet, but some parts may rely on the communication infrastructure that your local electric co-op is currently building and maintaining.

In fact, today’s communication system already is used to talk to a vast network of sensors and monitoring equipment that alerts the co-op to downed power lines, malfunctioning equipment and other problems that can occur. The speed and sophistication of these sensors allows the co-op to correct the problem before a large number of members experiences an outage.

The modern electric utility business is complicated and relies on a variety of systems to improve reliability. Tomorrow’s system will utilize greater communications to create additional value for both you and your electric cooperative.

By stopping drafts at their source, you’ll stay warmer at lower thermostat settings, use less energy and reduce your utility bills. As a bonus, the air leaks you plug now will help your air conditioner cycle less often next summer.

It’s not easy to caulk and weather-strip the offending spots around your home’s exterior when winter’s raging outside. However, you can stop many leaks from inside – especially the ones that transfer cold air from room to room or from your basement through the house and into the attic.

You likely already know the location of many of the cold air leaks in your home, but you can use your hand or a lighted incense stick to confirm their existence. Before you start, note that caulks and other sealing materials generally are formulated for application at temperatures above 40 degrees. If you must repair a large interior air leak (or one on an outside wall) during low outside temperatures, be sure to buy a caulk or sealant specifically designed for that purpose.

Start in the living spaces

• Although many points of air infiltration can originate elsewhere, begin your search in the most-used areas of your home. This will have the greatest impact on your family’s comfort, because these are the leaks and cold spots they feel every day.
• Caulk around frames for exterior doors and around trim and baseboards where they meet the wall and floor with an interior-grade caulk. Use a clear-drying caulk for hardwood or tile floors and trim with natural wood finishes – and paintable caulk for painted trim and carpeted floors.
• Seal cracks between the walls and window frames and trim, especially under the windowsills.
• Around the moving parts of windows, use a strip-away, nonpermanent caulk or cover the entire window with an inexpensive plastic film window insulating kit.
• Install foam gaskets on all electrical switches and outlets – even on interior walls. Be sure to turn off the power to the area where you’ll be working first.
• Use child-safety plugs to minimize the amount of cold air coming through the sockets in outlets.
• Recessed lights and bathroom fans can poke into attic insulation and create a pathway for air leaks, so seal around them from below with flexible, high-temperature caulk.
• Cracks, missing plaster and exposed lath indicate a direct hole into wall and ceiling cavities. Repair these spots with plaster or cover them with new drywall.
• In the kitchen, caulk or use spray foam around kitchen cabinets, as well as drains, water pipes and electrical lines in conduits where they enter the wall or floor. In bathrooms, seal the pipes and areas around medicine cabinets, bathtubs and showers too.
• Tightly seal a whole-house attic fan with a window insulating kit or other material.
• If you have an attic hatch, make sure it fits tightly and is backed by insulation. Weather-strip the edges of the access hole and build a simple wood box to hold insulation on the backside of the hatch. As an alternative, purchase an insulated hatch cover.

Head down to the basement

Air leaks that start in the basement can work their way upstairs in several ways, so stop infiltration at its source. Taking a tour of your basement when it’s sunny outside will help you spot obvious leaks around the foundation and exterior walls. Before you caulk, be sure to vacuum dusty areas or wipe them clean to promote adhesion of the sealant.

• Caulk any crack between the sill plate and foundation wall using a material that works well with masonry. Use caulk to fill any cracks between the sill plate and band joist too.
• The chase for a plumbing stack may run inside the walls of your home, from the basement to the attic, with openings at each floor where the pipes branch off. If the chase isn’t much larger than the pipes, seal it with expanding foam. For larger chases, use drywall, wood or rigid foam – and caulk or foam all around the edges.
• Seal the hole where the bathtub drain comes down – and any other holes for plumbing or electrical wiring in the basement ceiling – with caulk or foam. You may need to use a filler material for larger holes.
• If your home has forced-air heat, there may be large cracks or gaps where the ducts pass through the ceilings, floors and walls. Caulk or foam where the metal duct opening and the ceiling, floor or wall meet. Also seal joints in the ducts with duct mastic. (Duct tape will not stay stuck for long!)
• Using a caulk that works well with masonry, fill cracks where the frames of basement windows are set into the walls. Windows that aren’t used for summer ventilation or as fire exits can be caulked shut permanently. For operable windows, use a strip-away, nonpermanent caulk you easily can remove in the spring.
• Weather-strip the edges (and insulate the back) of the hatch or door to the crawl space.  

Mini-split ductless heat pumps are becoming popular for good reason. They can heat efficiently even when winter temperatures drop below the freezing point, and they’re an economical and energy efficient replacement for window air-conditioning units. They’re also a good choice for a room addition if your current heating and cooling system can’t handle the extra load.

Ductless heat pumps are often installed as a primary heating source and paired with a backup system that kicks in when outside temperatures are extremely cold. Compared to conventional electric resistance baseboard heaters, a ductless heat pump system should considerably reduce your overall heating costs.

There are benefits beyond cost savings too. With baseboard heaters, the heat rises along the walls, but with a ductless system, the warm air flows evenly throughout the rooms, adding comfort. A ductless heat pump also could be an ideal solution if your home doesn’t have a forced-air duct system, such as you’d have with a forced-air furnace. In addition, if your existing ductwork is in poor condition, installing a ductless heat pump may be more practical and less expensive than repairing, sealing and insulating your old ducts. Ductless mini-split systems likewise are becoming popular in new home construction as well.

It’s a mix-and-match system

A ductless heat pump has two main components: the outdoor compressor and the indoor air handler. Coolant and electrical lines run through a conduit from the compressor outside the home through the wall to the inside air handler(s).

Ductless heat pumps can be configured in different ways. A common approach that could deliver the most value is to provide heating and cooling to one large zone in your home by using a single compressor and a single air handler. Or you could use one compressor to power as many as four inside air handlers, each with its own thermostat. A larger home even could have more than one outside compressor.

Ductless heat pumps are often a great solution, but as you explore this option consider these things:

• What are the other investments you could make to reduce your energy costs or improve comfort? Is the ductless heat pump the best option? A thorough energy audit of your home will help answer these questions.
• Are rebates offered by your electric co-op?
• What’s the best size and efficiency level for a ductless heat pump in your situation?
• Are there contractors in your area with experience installing ductless heat pumps?
• Can your local electric co-op give you a list of recommended contractors? You can also visit www.energystar.gov for tips on hiring contractors.  

This column was co-written by Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency.

Even if your home is only 10 or 15 years old, it may not have enough insulation in the attic, in the walls or under the floors. If you live in a much older home, it’s pretty likely that adding more insulation will help reduce your heating and cooling bills. In fact, adding insulation to your home can cut heating and cooling costs anywhere from 15 to 45 percent, depending on factors such as the original amount of insulation, house size, air leaks and personal energy use and living habits.

For many insulating job locations in your home, such as the attic and basement, handling the work yourself can save money. However, some jobs – insulating walls and foundations, for example – are more difficult and time-consuming. In those cases, calling a professional insulation contractor for installation may be the wisest choice.

How much insulation do you already have?

Insulation is rated by R-value, a measure of its ability to resist heat loss or heat gain. The higher the R-value, the better a material insulates.

Before you go shopping for insulation, it’s important to know how much you already have in the various areas of your home.

• Check the attic. This is the most important place for you to have adequate insulation in your home. This is also usually the easiest place for “do-it-yourselfers” to figure out how much insulation is there, because access is good and the only tools you need are a flashlight and a ruler or yardstick.

       Use the chart below to figure out what kind of insulation you have. Then measure the insulation’s depth and multiply it by the factor shown to estimate the R-value of your existing insulation.

 • Look into the walls. It’s pretty difficult to add insulation to existing walls, unless you’re planning to add new siding to your home or finish an unfinished space. However, there are insulating methods (usually handled by a professional insulating contractor) that can bring the R-value up to the appropriate level.

         One method of determining if exterior walls are insulated is to check around electrical outlets in the walls. (Be sure to turn off the power first!) Remove the cover plates and shine a flashlight into the crack around each outlet box; you should be able to see whether or not insulation is in the wall. Be sure to check separate outlets on the first and second floors – and in different parts of the house – because wall insulation in one wall doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s in all walls.

       If you can’t see insulation around the outlets, remove a section of baseboard molding or paneling to expose an exterior wall cavity, cut a hole in the wall of a closet or cabinet that faces an outside wall, go to the attic and look down openings in the top plates of exterior walls or take out a small section of exterior siding.

 • Inspect under floors. Check the underside of any floor over an unheated space such as a garage, basement or crawlspace. Inspect and measure the thickness of the insulation you find there. It most likely will be fiberglass batts, so multiply the thickness in inches by 3.2 to find out the R-value. If the insulation is a foam board or sprayed-on foam, use any visible label information or multiply the thickness in inches by 5 to estimate the R-value.

 Use this chart to calculate the R-value of the insulation you have in your attic now 

An electric air source heat pump can be a good alternative to a furnace system that runs on propane or fuel oil. A heat pump is also a cost-effective alternative to electric resistance heat that’s used in electric furnaces, baseboard heaters and wall units.

Do you know how a heat pump works?

In the summer, an air source heat pump acts as an air conditioner that draws heat from your home’s air and transfers it outside. In the winter, the system’s direction is reversed, so heat is pulled from the outside air and moved into your home.

The heat pump has two major components: the condenser (also called the compressor) outside that circulates refrigerant through the system, and an air handler inside that distributes the conditioned air. Heat pumps distribute the hot or cold air through your home’s duct system.

In the past, heat pumps weren’t efficient enough to work in colder climates. In recent years, however, technology has advanced to make them viable in climates with long periods of sub-freezing temperatures, such as Iowa.

If your old furnace has an air conditioner attached, replacing both the heating and cooling system with the all-in-one solution of a heat pump could produce significant cost savings. If you’re currently cooling with window units, or have an older central air conditioner, moving to an air source heat pump could reduce your summer energy bills.

Heat pumps not only reduce energy costs, they can also eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning and problems that can occur with onsite storage of propane or heating oil.

The downside of using a heat pump – and it’s a much less significant problem than it was when heat pumps first came on the scene many years ago – is that a heat pump must work harder to extract heat as the outside temperature drops. At some point the heat pump switches to resistance mode, which operates the same way a toaster or an electric baseboard heater works.

Here’s what to look for

The ratings on a heat pump make a big difference in efficiency, and in Iowa you’ll need to consider both heating and cooling ratings. For heating efficiency, look for a unit with a high HSPF rating. On the cooling side, focus on the SEER rating, which measures cooling efficiency.

A basic standard heat pump is rated at HSPF 8.2 and SEER 14, but that kind of efficiency won’t have a big impact on your power bill. Instead, look for a heat pump that’s Energy Star® rated, which means it has a ratings of at least 8.5 HSPF and 15 SEER. If your budget allows, consider a top-of the line heat pump like the Carrier Infinity unit shown here; with an HSPF up to 13 and a SEER up to 20.5, it’s one of stingiest users of electricity on the market.

Visit touchstoneenergy.com, energystar.gov or your local co-op’s website to learn more about equipment, installation and qualified contractors. Also be sure to check into state and co-op rebates.

This column was co-written by Pat Keegan and Brad Thiessen of Collaborative Efficiency. 

During Iowa’s hot, humid summers, about half the heat that accumulates in your home comes from solar gain; the other half comes from air leaks and heat-producing activities inside the home. You may think a new and larger air conditioner is the answer, but it makes sense to first tackle the the heat producers affecting your home before investing in a new air conditioner. In fact, if you can reduce the heat entering or being generated in your home – plus gain better control of your existing air conditioner with a smart thermostat – you should see a pretty significant reduction in your monthly power bill.

Cut your power bill, one gallon at a time

According to government statistics, the average American family uses more than 300 gallons of water per day at home – and water heating accounts for about 18 percent of the typical family’s power bill every month. Put those two statistics together, and it’s easy to see how decreasing your water consumption could have a significant impact on reducing your power bill.

Old and worn faucet washers and gaskets frequently cause leaks. A leaky hot water faucet that drips at the rate of one drop per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons per year. That’s enough water to fill your water heater 50-75 times; by any measure, that’s a lot of wasted heated water!

So, you should fix visible leaks right away. However, sometimes leaks aren’t so obvious. To locate a hidden leak, find the two water pipes coming out of the top of your water heater. One supplies cold water to the tank, and the other is the hot water outlet. When you haven’t used any hot water for a few hours, feel both pipes; their temperatures should be about the same.

If their temperatures are notably different, repeat the test in a few more hours, making sure not to use any hot water in the meantime. If both pipes remain equal in temperature, you don’t have a hot water leak. However, if only the hot water pipe is still warm, you do have a leak – and the pipe will be warm all the way from the tank to the location of the leak.

Seal drafty switches and outlets

Fortunately, one of the easiest projects for eliminating air leaks also is one of the least expensive: installing foam sealers around the electrical switches and outlets inside your home. You can buy a six-pack of foam insulating gaskets for less than $2, and the only tool you’ll need is a straight-blade screwdriver – one with a 3/16-inch blade works best.

After you’ve purchased the correct number of foam gaskets for all the switches and outlets located on the exterior walls, turn off the power to the rooms where you’ll be working. Then remove the screw(s) securing the switch or outlet plate and remove the plate. After removing the cutouts in the foam gasket, position it around the switch or outlet and reinstall the cover plate. Turn the power on, and you’re done!

By the way, if you feel air leaks around switches and outlets located on interior walls, install foam gaskets in those spots too. The leaks probably are starting at the holes drilled for wires at the top or bottom of the wall framing.

Locate a lot of air leaks for a buck

Take a walk around the outside of your home to check for air leaks in weather stripping around exterior doors. Close each door on a dollar bill in several locations around the door’s perimeter. If you easily can remove the bill (or it falls out), the weather stripping needs to be repaired or replaced.

Also perform a visual check of every weather strip, looking for cracked, deformed or missing sections. Most types of weather stripping are fairly inexpensive, so if you find a damaged area, replace the entire side instead of trying to splice in a short section.

The manufacturers of most insulated and high-quality wood exterior doors offer replacement weather stripping kits that are precut to fit the door frame. If you need to buy bulk weather stripping, calculate the amount you’ll need by measuring the top and both sides – and then add 5 to 10 percent for waste.

Look for spots to caulk from inside

Even though caulk around wires and pipes going into your home may look good from the outside, take a look at the same spots from the inside too. A little daylight can show you that it’s time to remove and replace the old caulk.

Turn off the power before you start checking wires that go through the foundation or an exterior wall. From the basement, look for sunlight coming through holes drilled in the foundation. Also pull back the insulation from the band joist at the top of the foundation walls to look for leaks. (Wear gloves, a dust mask and safety glasses when you’re removing and replacing insulation!)

To make sure the air leaks are totally sealed, caulk from both the inside and the outside.

Help your refrigerator keep its cool

One of the simplest things you can do to keep your refrigerator-freezer running at peak efficiency (and as a result, producing less residual heat) is clean the condenser coils and other parts underneath or on the back of the unit twice a year. But don’t just attack the coils, wiring and condenser fan with a crevice tool or brush on your vacuum – you could damage the fridge’s hardworking but somewhat delicate parts.

Instead, buy a refrigerator brush for about $10 at the hardware or grocery store, and – after turning off the power to the refrigerator at the breaker box – use the brush to gently loosen dust and dirt before vacuuming up the mess from the floor.

Install a smart thermostat

A smart thermostat is a Wi-Fi enabled device that automatically sets cooling and heating temperature settings for optimal performance.

For example, a smart thermostat can learn the temperature you like and establish a schedule that  adjusts to energy-saving temperatures when you’re asleep or away. The device also can provide home energy use data and allow you to control home cooling and heating remotely from your smart phone.

Smart thermostats with the Energy Star® label have been independently certified, based on actual field data, to deliver energy savings. In addition, many smart thermostats have been evaluated through independently funded, designed and evaluated studies. For example, the Nest Learning Thermostat shown here was found to save about 10 to 12 percent on heating bills and 15 percent on cooling bills. This translates to an estimated average energy savings of $131 to $145 a year, which means the device can pay for itself within a couple of years.

Many smart thermostats – from the simplest, most inexpensive ones to the fanciest, detachable and remote units – are designed for do-it-yourself installation. Just turn off the power to your heating and cooling system, remove the old thermostat and attach the existing system wires to the correct terminals on the new thermostat. However, if the wires aren’t color-coded or the new thermostat requires additional wires, call a professional installer for help.

Most pool energy goes to power the circulating pump, with much smaller amounts needed for cleaning and water treatment. In heated pools (which make up only 10 percent to 20 percent of all residential pools), energy use varies widely depending on family preferences and use patterns.

Pumps are the heart and soul of any pool. Most pools rely on a single-speed, 1.5- to 2-horsepower pump that runs at full speed for 8 hours a day or more. More efficient pool pump options include:

• Replace an existing single-speed pump with a high-efficiency single-speed pump. High-efficiency pumps use 8-10 percent less energy and are only marginally more expensive than standard pool pumps.
• Exchange an existing single-speed pump for a two-speed pump that won’t go “full throttle” on a single high speed all of the time. By running at a lower speed for 16 hours per day, you can save 60-70 percent on electric bills. A two-speed pump will cost an extra $100 to $150.
• Replace an existing pump with a variable-speed pump that varies speed – and, therefore, electricity consumption –with the required workload. Although a variable speed pump will cost about $650 more than a basic pump, it saves the most energy by far – nearly 90 percent – and offers the greatest operational flexibility.

In addition to replacing an inefficient circulating pump, consider these measures:

• Use a bigger filter. An oversized filter will result in less pressure loss on the pumping system, enabling greater water flow with less energy. The larger filter will also last longer between replacements.
• Use bigger pipes – typically 2 inches in diameter instead of 1.5 inches – and large-radius elbows. Making the flow path smoother reduces pressure loss and pumping power.
• Downsize the pump. Most pools are designed with an unnecessarily large pump. Going from a 1.5 or 2-horsepower unit down to a 0.75- or 1-horsepower model can reduce pumping energy by half or more – often with no loss of performance. 
• Control pump run times. Depending on the effectiveness of your filtering system and the amount of use the pool gets, it may be possible to save significant pumping energy just by running the pump less. The normal target is to cycle the pool’s volume through the filter one or two times per day, but you could try fewer hours and see if the pool still is acceptably clean. Although this no-cost measure is appealing, it will not save as much money and energy in the long run as replacing an inefficient pump with an efficient two-speed or variable-speed pump.  

If reducing your energy costs is important, you should weigh an investment in new windows against the other energy efficiency opportunities you may have, such as adding insulation or purchasing a new heating and cooling system. An energy audit by your local electric cooperative or a qualified auditor is the best way to compare your options.

The auditor can perform a diagnostic test to determine how leaky your windows are. These tests often show that windows, even older ones, aren’t as leaky as you might think – and that you have more significant air leakage problems elsewhere in the home. You also may discover there are ways to reduce heat loss through your windows without replacing them, such as storm windows or window coverings.

As you begin to explore window replacement, ask yourself if you’re happy with the number of windows you have and with their sizes and locations. You could, for example, decide to increase or decrease the size of a window – or to replace a window with an exterior door. Sometimes these types of changes are quite affordable, but the cost can be much greater if significant changes to wall framing are required.

When considering whether to add more windows, remember that even very efficient ones are much less effective insulators than a home’s exterior walls, which means they’ll be colder to the touch than the wall in the winter. And, depending on orientation and shading, windows can let in too much direct sun in the summer, driving up indoor temperatures and air-conditioning costs.

When buying windows, you have a number of choices to make. Double-pane windows are necessary to meet code for most applications, but the additional cost for triple-pane windows could be worth the investment. Choosing argon or krypton gas between the panes adds a little more efficiency. 

A common option that’s well worth the investment is a low-emissivity coating added to the glass. The most important benefit of this  “low-e” coating is its ability to reflect heat back into the interior space, which reduces heating bills and increases comfort. These coatings reduce solar heat gain during warm-weather months as well, which can help lower air-conditioning costs. 

Also consider window-frame construction, with materials including wood, composites, fiberglass, aluminum or vinyl. Each has pluses and minuses in terms of cost, maintenance, durability and energy efficiency.

Fortunately, windows are rated for energy efficiency, so you don’t need to know all the details about their construction. The most important indicator of a window’s energy efficiency is the U-Factor, which measures the rate the entire window loses heat. The range goes from 0.20 to 1.20, and the lower the number, the better a product is at keeping heat in.

Another number you need to check is Solar Heat Gain Coefficient, which measures how well a product can resist unwanted heat gain, which is especially important during summer cooling season. The lower the number from 0 to 1, the less you’ll spend on cooling.

Also look for an Energy Star® label. Only windows that are substantially more efficient than the code requires receive the Energy Star label. Check the website at www.energystar.gov for a list of windows, doors and skylights that qualify for the Energy Star label. Another good source of information is the National Fenestration Rating Council, a nonprofit organization that establishes objective window, door and skylight energy performance ratings to help you compare products and make informed purchase decisions; visit www.nfrc.org.

Bids for new windows vary a great deal, so it’s worth requesting more than one and comparing qualifications of the contractor, as well as price, for something that will change the look and comfort of your home for many years to come. Air leaks and moisture problems are common if windows aren’t installed properly, which can create mold, mildew and rot in the wall. Moisture also can prevent a window from operating properly or cause trim paint to peel.  

Here are the top ten things that any good energy saver should do first.

1.    Replace any lightbulb, especially ones that are on more than one hour per day, with an LED bulb.

2.    Close shades and drapes during the day to help keep heat out during summer.

3.    Plug electronic devices such as cable boxes, printers and TVs into power strips to turn off during vacations or long periods without use.

4.    Outside your home, caulk around all penetrations, including telephone, electrical, cable, gas, water spigots and dryer vents.

5.   Change heating and cooling system air filters monthly.

6.   Use the dishwasher’s air-dry cycle instead of the heat-dry cycle to dry dishes.

7.   Keep your garage door down. A warmer garage in the winter and cooler garage in the summer will save energy.

8.   Set the water heater temperature no higher than 120 degrees.

9.   Make sure the dryer vent hose is not kinked or clogged.

10. Ensure refrigerator door seals are tight.

LIGHTING

Traditional lighting can amount to 11 percent of your monthly energy use. Energy-saving lightbulbs can slice lighting costs by 75 percent.

11. Replace outdoor lighting with equivalent outdoor-rated LED bulbs. LEDs work well in cold weather.

12. Replace fluorescent tube lamps with LED-equivalent tube bulbs.

13. Use outdoor security lights with a photocell and/or a motion sensor.

14. Turn off unnecessary lighting, especially when you leave a room.

ELECTRONICS

These plug loads around the home can add up to 8-15 percent of monthly energy use.

15. Turn off computers, monitors and printers when not in use.

16. When buying a new computer, select an Energy Star® model. Consider buying a laptop, as it uses less energy than a comparable desktop.

17. Turn off or unplug large-screen TVs when not in use.

18. Check for energy-saving settings on flat-panel TVs, such as automatic brightness control and a power-saving sleep mode.

19. Request an Energy Star set-top box from your cable or satellite TV provider.

20. Turn off stereos and radios when not in use.

21. Enable the auto power-down feature on gaming consoles.

22. Use energy-saving modes or automatic sleep functions on electronics.

23. Remember to turn off and unplug hair dryers and irons.

24. Make sure electric blankets and mattress pads are turned off in the morning.

25. Ensure all new appliances, electronics and lights are Energy Star labeled.

26. Turn off pool pumps and heaters when the pool’s not in use.

27. Verify livestock water tank heaters are off when not needed.

28. Make sure heat tape on pipes is off when not needed.

29. Unplug battery chargers when not needed.

KITCHEN

The kitchen is responsible for 15-20 percent of your monthly energy use, including appliances and refrigeration.

30. Turn off coffeemakers not in use.

31. Use the refrigerator’s anti-sweat feature only if necessary.

32. Switch your refrigerator’s power-saver switch to “on.”

33. Clean refrigerator coils annually.

34. If it’s not frost-free, regularly defrost refrigerator or freezer to avoid ice buildup.

35. Set the refrigerator temperature to 34-37 degrees and freezer temperature to 0-5 degrees.

36. Unplug unused refrigerators or freezers. Recycle them if you don’t need them.

37. Use microwave for cooking when possible.

38. On the range or cooktop, use pot lids to help food cook faster.

39. If you’re heating water on the cooktop, use cold tap water instead of hot.

40. Remember to use the kitchen exhaust fan when cooking. Turn it off after cooking.

41. Use a slow-cooker instead of simmering foods on the stove.

42. Scrape dirty dishes before putting them into the dishwasher.

43. Use cold water for garbage disposal.

44. Only run dishwasher when full.

WATER HEATING

Water heating can reach 12 percent of your annual energy use.

45. For households with one or two members, a 115-degree temperature setting may work fine.

46. Install a water heater wrap (also known as a water heater blanket).

47. Drain 1-2 gallons from bottom of water heater each year to reduce sediment buildup.

48. Install heat traps on hot and cold water lines when it’s time to replace your water heater.

49. Insulate exposed hot water lines.

50. Take 5- to 7-minute showers.

51. Install water-saving showerheads.

52. Fix dripping faucets.

53. Don’t let the water run while you’re shaving or brushing your teeth.

LAUNDRY

Laundry can use 5-9 percent of your monthly energy.

54. Wash clothes in cold water. Use hot water only for very dirty loads.

55. Only do full laundry loads.

56. If you must do smaller loads, adjust the water level in the washing machine to match the load size.

57. Always use a cold-water rinse.

58. Use bath towels multiple times before washing them.

59.  Clean dryer’s lint trap before each load.

60. Make sure the dryer’s outdoor exhaust door is not blocked or clogged.

61. Verify that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to the inside wall.

62. Check that the dryer vent hose is tightly connected to dryer.

63. Minimize clothes drying time by using the dryer’s auto-moisture sensor.

64. Dry consecutive loads to harvest heat remaining in the dryer from last load.

65. In hot weather, avoid running the dryer during the day.

66. Consider using a “solar-powered” clothes dryer: an old-fashioned clothesline.

HEATING AND COOLING

Heating and air-conditioning are usually the largest loads in a home and are responsible for 40-50 percent of your annual energy spending.

67. Set thermostats to 78 degrees in summer, 68 degrees in winter.

68. Install a smart, programmable thermostat.

69. During summer, run ceiling fans on medium, blowing down; during winter, run ceiling fans on low, blowing up.

70. Turn off ceiling fans when leaving the room. Fans cool people, not rooms.

71. When installing new air filters, make sure they’re facing in the  direction of airflow (look for an arrow on side of filter).

72. When heating or cooling, keep windows shut and locked.

73. Insulate electric wall outlets and wall switches with foam pads.

74. Caulk along baseboards with a clear sealant.

75. Caulk around plumbing penetrations that come through walls beneath bathroom and kitchen sinks.

76. Caulk electrical wire penetrations at the top of the interior walls in the attic.

77. Make sure drapes and shades are open during the day to catch free solar heat in winter.

78. In winter, close shades and drapes at night to keep in heat. In summer, close shades and drapes during the day to keep out warm sunlight.

79. Ensure attic access door or hatch closes tightly and is insulated.

80. Make sure insulation in your attic doesn’t block soffit vents.

81. Don’t close off unused rooms that are conditioned by forced-air systems.

82. Don’t close supply air registers.

83. Check to be sure return air grilles are not blocked by furniture or drapes.

84. Ensure windows and doors are properly weatherstripped and use door sweeps.

85. Make sure outside soffit vents are not blocked.

86. Use a thermostat to control power attic ventilators so they don’t draw conditioned air from your home.

87. Have your heating and cooling system serviced once per year by a certified technician.

88. Monitor your home’s humidity in the summer. If it consistently stays in the 60 percent range or higher, ask a heating and cooling technician about lowering your central air-conditioning unit’s indoor fan speed.

89. Ensure window air-conditioning units are weatherstripped. Remove the units in the winter.

90. Remove and clean window air-conditioner filter monthly.

91. Close fresh-air vents on window air-conditioning units.

92. Use heavy-duty, clear sheets of plastic sealed tightly on the inside of windows to reduce the amount of cold air entering your home during the winter. Alternately, install clear plastic insulating kits inside.

93. Minimize use of electric space heaters. Turn off space heaters when leaving the room.

94. Ensure your outdoor heat pump/air-conditioning unit is kept clean and free of debris.

95. When a fire’s burning in the fireplace, turn down your heating system thermostat a few degrees.

96. When using the fireplace, open the outside air vent or open the nearest window slightly.

97. Keep the fireplace damper closed unless a fire is burning.

98. Ensure rugs, drapes or furniture don’t block floor registers.

99. Caulk around storm windows and basement windows.

100. Turn off bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans 15 minutes after the job is complete – or install timers on bathroom ventilation fans.

101. For summer, plant trees and shrubs to provide shade on the east, south and west sides of your home. For winter, evergreen trees and shrubs can provide a windbreak on the north and west sides.  

Late winter and early spring are great times to think about changes you want to make to your home’s landscape. While the goal of most lawn and garden projects is to bring beauty to your outdoor space, a well-designed project can also improve your energy bill, increase the overall value of your home and provide additional benefits, such as reduced noise pollution, optimized water use and cleaner air around your home.

The two best strategies for improving the energy efficiency of your home with landscaping are to incorporate shading in the summer and wind blocking in the winter.

Plan for summer shading

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, shading your home is the most cost-effective way to reduce heat gain from the sun and reduce your air-conditioning costs in the summer. Having more plants and trees in your yard can reduce the air temperature by up to 6 degrees.

Planting deciduous trees on the south, southwest and west sides of your home can cut heating during hot summer months, while allowing sunlight through during the fall and winter, after the trees have lost their leaves. When planting trees, consider the expected shape and height of the mature trees and where they will shade your home. A tree with a high mature height planted on the south side of your home, for example, will provide all-day roof shading during the summer, while lower trees on the west side of your home can protect your home from the lower afternoon sun.

Plant trees an appropriate distance away from your home, so they don’t disrupt your foundation, side walls or your roof as they grow. While it will probably be 5 to 10 years before a newly planted tree will begin providing a significant amount of shade to your roof, it can start shading windows immediately.

Also consider paved areas around your home and how you can shade them during the summer. Think about walking across your driveway barefoot on a hot July day: The paving acts as a large heat sink that reflects onto your home, causing your air conditioner to work even harder. You can use trees, hedges and other landscaping structures such as arbors to shade these paved areas.

Stop cold winter winds

If your home is in an open area without many structures around it, cold winter winds may be increasing your heating bills. A windbreak on your property can help deflect these winds over your home. The most common type of windbreak uses a combination of evergreen trees and shrubs to block wind from the ground to the top of your home. For the best windbreak effect, plant these features on the north and northwest sides of your home at a distance of between two and five times the height of the mature trees. Incorporating a wall or fence can further assist with the windbreak.

Another insulating technique is to plant shrubs and bushes closer to your home, but at least one foot away. The space between these plants and your home is dead air space, which can help insulate your home during both summer and winter months.

If you live near power lines, talk with your electric co-op about how far new trees should be planted from these lines and other co-op equipment before making final design decisions for your yard. Be sure to consider the mature height and spread of any trees you’re considering; nothing’s worse than having to cut them down or severely trim them because they grew too large and are causing problems.

By Anne Prince

Walls. Floors. Ceilings. Attic. These are some of the prime areas of a home that need insulation in order for you to maximize energy efficiency. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), adding insulation to your home is a sound investment that likely will pay for itself quickly in reduced utility bills. In fact, DOE estimates that you can reduce your heating and cooling needs up to 30 percent by properly insulating and weatherizing your home.

The actual amount of savings for any home depends upon several factors – the age of the structure, the current level of insulation, your climate, efficiency of your heating/cooling system and your utility rates. On average, older homes have less insulation than homes built today, but even adding insulation to a newer home can pay for itself within a few years.

How does insulation work?

Heat flows naturally from a warmer space to a cooler space. During winter months, this means heat moves directly from heated living spaces to adjacent unheated attics, garages, basements and even outdoors. It can also travel indirectly through interior ceilings, walls and floors – wherever there’s a difference in temperature. During summer months, the opposite happens – heat flows from the exterior to the interior of a home.

Proper installation of insulation creates resistance to heat flow, which is measured or rated in terms of R-value – the higher the R-value, the greater the insulation’s effectiveness. The more heat flow resistance your insulation provides, the lower your heating and cooling costs will be.

So, where do you start?

You first need to determine how much insulation you already have in your home and where it’s located. If you need assistance, your co-op conducts energy efficiency audits for the home and will check insulation as a routine part of the assessment. For folks with a do-it-yourself spirit, you can conduct an insulation audit yourself. Here’s what you should be looking for:

•    What areas in your home are, aren’t or should be insulated.
•    The type of insulation in your home.
•    The R-value and the thickness or depth (inches) of the insulation.

A prime area that’s often chronically under-insulated is the attic. Attic insulation is essential to help keep warm air inside in the winter and prevent hot attic air from heating your living spaces in the summer. According to the DOE, in Iowa you should have up to R-60 in the attic and R-30 in the floors. For more details on R-values and insulation types, visit the DOE website at www.energy.gov; search the word “insulation.” And remember to contact the energy experts at your local electric cooperative too.

Anne Prince writes on consumer and cooperative affairs for the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association, the Arlington, Va.-based service arm of the nation’s 900-plus consumer-owned, not-for-profit electric cooperatives. 

By James Dulley

An electric space heater can reduce your utility bills, but only if you lower the thermostat on your central heating system. In fact, a small heater might make sense if there only are one or two people living in your home, and you don’t need to keep vacant rooms warm.

Another common situation is when there’s a room that doesn’t stay warm enough. You could get chilly in that problem room and turn the central heating thermostat higher, which will warm (or overheat) the rest of the house. It’s much more efficient to use a small space heater in a room like this.

It’s important to understand that all electric space heaters are pretty much 100 percent efficient. This just means that all of the electricity a space heater consumes ends up as heat in your house, but it doesn’t mean the heater is cheap to operate.

Also, the maximum heat most small space heaters can safely produce is about 5,100 Btuh (Btu per hour). Homes typically have central heating systems with a capacity of 50,000 to 100,000 Btuh, so obviously a single space heater can’t heat an entire house. So, be wary of advertising that states a small electric space heater can allow your central system to run dramatically less often, resulting in a savings of 50 percent (or even more). 

There’s not a “best” electric space heater for every situation. The proper selection depends on the room and how you plan to use the heater. For example, are you looking for quiet heat in a bedroom at night, heat for just one person watching TV or will there be a group of people in a large room?

Radiant space heaters work quickly to warm you

This type of space heater uses a red-hot ribbon – long quartz or carbon tubes to produce infrared heat radiation similar to the sun's rays. The primary function is to heat objects and people directly in front of the heater, resulting in a very comfortable, effective heat.

Radiant heaters are quiet and ideal for heating a specific spot – for example, in your home office to keep you warm while you’re working on your computer. Your body and the furniture in the heater’s path gradually will re-radiate the heat, so the room air also will heat up slightly. For a larger area, select a model that oscillates.

Convection heaters heat the air in a room

This is often done using a built-in fan to circulate room air over the heating elements in the space heater. Another choice, an oil-filled, radiator-style heater, uses natural air circulation to move room air over the heat source, gently warming a room without bursts of heat. For a or family room, consider a convection-style heater, which will heat a large room more effectively than a radiant unit. Choose a model with a thermostat and multispeed fan to control the heat output.

A ceramic convection heater is a good choice when around young children. There are no red-hot ribbons, and if the airflow gets blocked, the heating output automatically drops. For a bedroom, where quiet operation is important, use an oil-filled radiator or a convection heater with a low-speed fan setting. Another option is a radiant model facing the bed, if you don't mind the red glow. A horizontally shaped space heater can heat the entire bed area.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
These companies offer electric space heaters.

Delonghi 
PHONE: 866-528-8323
WEBSITE: www.delonghi.com

Holmes Products 
PHONE: 800-546-5637
WEBSITE: www.holmesproducts.com

KAZ/Honeywell 
PHONE: 800-477-0457
WEBSITE: www.kaz.com

Lasko 
PHONE: 800-233-0268
WEBSITE: www.laskoproducts.com

Tightening your home is one of the best energy efficiency investments you can make. A typical home leaks, on average, about half its air every hour, which is like having your kitchen window open all day, every day. Sealing air leaks can also eliminate drafts that keep your home from feeling cozy.

However, it’s possible to seal your home so tightly that it has little fresh-air ventilation, which can contribute to indoor air quality problems or a build-up of moisture. The challenge is to achieve the best home performance and energy savings while maintaining air quality.

The first step to take is to eliminate or reduce indoor air pollutants, such as smoke or chemicals. Experts then recommend sealing air leaks as much as possible and installing mechanical ventilation as needed. Simple mechanical ventilation can be controlled and consistent – as opposed to natural ventilation from air leaks – which can result in a home being too drafty in extreme weather and not ventilated well enough during mild weather.

The best way to inspect your home for air leaks is to hire an energy auditor who will conduct a blower door test, which uses a powerful fan to measure the air infiltration rate. During the test, the contractor will be able to locate and seal air leaks. After sealing, the contractor can measure the resulting air infiltration rate and talk with you about any ventilation needs.

There’s no simple way to determine how much mechanical ventilation your home will need; it depends on a combination of factors, including the rate of airflow into your home, weather, the layout and occupancy of your home, and whether there are other indoor air quality concerns, such as radon or combustion appliances.

Mechanical ventilation systems allow for controlled air movement and a rate of ventilation in your home on which you can depend, helping ensure good indoor air quality and appropriate levels of moisture. Generally, newer homes that have been sealed well – and manufactured homes – have the greatest need for mechanical ventilation.

There are two primary categories of mechanical ventilation. Many people are familiar with spot ventilation systems – the fans that you find above your oven range, in your laundry room, in your bathroom and perhaps above a garage workshop. They focus on removing moist air and indoor air pollutants at the source. Generally, these fans only work when you turn them on, but you can install condensation sensors or humidistats so the fans will turn on whenever they sense a higher moisture content in the air. Keep in mind that running these fans constantly can take too much heated or cooled air out of your home, increasing your energy bills.

Whole-house ventilation circulates air throughout the home and introduces the right amount of outside air. There are four categories of whole-house ventilation systems. Determining which method is best for you will depend on your home’s specific needs:

• Exhaust ventilation systems – Fans pull air out of your home, which increases infiltration from the outside, either through air leaks or vents.
• Supply ventilation systems – Fans bring outside air into your home.
• Balanced ventilation systems – Both supply and exhaust fans circulate air in and out of the home.
• Energy recovery ventilation systems – Fans, combined with heat exchangers, modulate the temperature and humidity of air coming into your home.  

This column was co-written by Pat Keegan and Amy Wheeless of Collaborative Efficiency.

If your home has single-pane windows, you may be surprised at the energy savings you’ll gain by replacing them with high-performance, double- or triple-pane windows. While it may take many years for new windows to pay off in energy savings, the benefits of added comfort, improved aesthetics and functionality can offset the cost.

Replacing old windows with Energy Star® qualified models can lower your household energy bills by an average of 12 percent. In addition, new windows can help reduce chills and drafts, condensation on the glass, and fading of furniture, carpets and window coverings.

Choose your windows

The choices you make about style, materials and installation could have a big impact on your comfort and energy bill.

•  Cost: Price per window ranges from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars, depending on materials, features and installation costs.
•  Materials: Wood frames offer good insulation, but they’re heavy and need extra maintenance. Vinyl and composite frames insulate well and don’t need painting.
•  Style: Single-hung, double-hung and sliding windows leak more air than casement, awning and hopper windows.
•  Glass: Some types of glass provide better insulation, light and condensation resistance. Windows with low-emissivity (low-e) coatings often are more energy efficient.
•  Cleaning and maintenance: Some materials and features make windows easier to care for. Tilt-in sashes, for example, make cleaning easier.

Keep these points in mind

A few years ago, five companies that sold replacement windows were found to be making exaggerated and unsupported claims about the energy efficiency of their windows, as well as how much money consumers could save on their heating and cooling bills by having them installed. The settlements with the Federal Trade Commission prohibit those companies from making these types of deceptive claims. However, that doesn’t mean that there still aren’t some companies that are less-than-truthful about the performance of their products, so compare carefully when shopping for windows.

•  Look for the Energy Star label.
•  Choose high-performance windows that have at least two panes of glass and a low-e coating that lets in light, but reduces heat gain. The coating also can protect your valuables from harmful, fading ultraviolet light (by up to 75 percent) without noticeably reducing visible light.
•  Select windows that are gas-filled to reduce heat loss.
•  Consider the highest efficiency windows your budget allows. Look for the National Fenestration Rating Council label, which gives the efficiency details as determined by an independent industry rating system for the energy performance of windows, doors and skylights. (See information on next page.)
•  Select windows with both a low U-factor and a low Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) to maximize energy savings during both cold and hot seasons.
•  Look for U-factors and SHGCs for the entire window, rather than center-of-glass U-factors and SHGCs. Whole-unit numbers more accurately reflect the energy performance of the entire product.
•  Think about buying windows with impact-resistant glass if you’re concerned about flying debris from storms.
•  Go to www.dsireusa.org to find out about tax credits in Iowa. Also ask your local electric cooperative about rebates or weatherization programs available in your area.

Buying the right windows is only half the job. Your new windows must be installed properly to achieve maximum energy savings and maintain the warranty, so have them put in by trained professionals according to the manufacturer’s instructions.  

1. Figure out which windows will maximize natural ventilation. Wind creates areas of positive and negative pressure around your house, so the windows near upwind areas will be cool air inlets and the windows near suction areas will be warm air outlets.

2. If air can take a longer path between windows, more of your house will be cooled. Don’t locate inlet windows and outlet windows directly opposite each other, because the only area that will be cooled will be in the direct path of the airflow.

3. Slightly opened windows will create a better air current than fully opened ones.

4. Close windows and doors during the hottest part of the day. If your house is well-tightened and insulated, rooms should stay relatively cool during afternoon hours.

5. Open windows on cool, low-humidity nights to flush out heat that builds up during the day. Leave windows closed when the humidity is high, or your air conditioner will have to work extra-hard when you turn it on.

Keep the heat out of living areas

6. Stop the sun’s warmth before it gets into your home. Close blinds and curtains during the day; light colors will reflect the most heat.

7. Keep interior lights dimmed or turned off during daylight hours. Turning on a table lamp for reading in a darkened room is a better choice than letting the sun stream in through a south or west window. North or east windows could provide enough light without significantly adding to the heat gain in a room.

8. Unplug the TV, entertainment equipment and computer when you’re not using them. Many of these devices consume power and produce heat in the standby mode.

Create less heat in the kitchen

9. Cover pots and pans on the cooktop or stove. Cooking creates lots of heat and humidity, so contain it as much as possible.

10. Use the exhaust fan. Vent steam and heat from cooking to the outdoors. However, don’t run an exhaust fan longer than necessary; in one hour, an exhaust fan can blow a house full of cooled air outside.

11. Run your dishwasher late at night. Start the dishwasher when you go to bed. If it has a timer, set the dishwasher to run during nonpeak hours in the middle of the night.

12. Use your most energy-efficient appliances for cooking. Instead of your stove or oven, use your microwave oven, toaster oven, crock-pot, steamer or pressure cooker.

13. Use cold water for cooking. Heating the water on your stove or cooktop consumes less energy than using hot water from your water heater – especially if doing so causes your water heater to cycle.

     14. Check the temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer. The temperatures should run 38°-40° F. in the refrigerator and 0°-5° F. in the freezer. Setting colder temperature levels wastes energy and makes these heat-producing appliances run too often.  

When the weather heats up, a new Energy Star® certified room air conditioner can help you keep your cool and lower your summer cooling bills. Energy Star units use 10 percent less energy and on average cost less than $70 per year to run.

The most important consideration in buying a window air conditioner is properly sizing it to the room. Bigger isn’t always better, and buying an air conditioner that’s too large won’t provide better cooling. In fact, an oversized air conditioner actually will be less effective, cooling the room before it has a chance to remove the humidity. The result will be a room that’s not very comfortable to spend time in, because the cool, moist air will make the room feel damp and clammy.

When you go shopping, take the measurements of the room with you. The chart (right) will help get you started on what size air conditioner to buy.

Be sure to make adjustments for these circumstances:

• If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent.
• If the room is very sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent.
• If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 BTUs for each additional person.
• If the unit is used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000 BTUs.
• If you’re mounting the air conditioner near the corner of a room, look for a unit that can send airflow in the right direction.

Also look for a unit with a motor that’s acceptably quiet on all speeds, as well as side curtains or sliding panels that fit tightly to keep bugs, rain and hot air outside. Consider some or all of these features too:

• Remote control
• 24-hour on/off timer
• Adjustable or oscillating louvers
• Dehumidification settings
• Built-in ionizing air filter
• Anti-theft measures

   

What's the future of window air conditioners?

Funded by a Kickstarter campaign, the Noria is unlike any window air conditioner you’ve seen. Less than 6 inches tall, it’s about 40 percent smaller than a conventional unit and lets you keep the view out your window. The Noria weighs about 30 pounds and has a built-in carrying handle, so it’s easy to install and store (even under a bed or in a closet) during cold-weather months.

The 5,000-BTU Noria features a single knob for power and setting the temperature. That’s all that’s necessary for cooling, because the appliance’s design directs cool air toward the ceiling, creating a convection cycle that prevents cold and hot spots in up to a 10x16-foot room. There’s also a fresh-air mode that brings in cool air without using the compressor – and you can control the unit from your smartphone.

The Noria currently is in the final stages of testing, and it should be available April 2017 for about $400. (Presale prices are lower.) For more details, go to www.kickstarter.com and enter Noria in the search box at the top of the page. 

Get your free copy of the new Solar PV Energy Guide

You may read the book online or download a complete PDF copy at the website of the Iowa Energy Center; click here or go to www.iowaenergycenter.org. In the Search box at the top of the page, enter the name of the book: Solar PV Energy Guide. In addition, a limited number of printed copies are available at your local electric cooperative’s office.

Here are some things to help you stay comfortable and hold down cooling costs this summer.

• A ceiling fan will allow you to be comfortable at a higher temperature in occupied rooms and let you raise the thermostat in those areas. A good ceiling fan should create enough air movement that you will be comfortable at 82 degrees and 80 percent relative humidity. If you’re using the fan to supplement or circulate air-conditioning, you should be able to raise the thermostat a full 4 degrees above the standard 78-degree setting and still be comfortable.
• Use window fans to create cross-ventilation on warm, still days. Open windows on the shady side of your house and position the fans so they blow air out of windows on the hot side of the house. The resulting pressure difference will cause air from the outside to flow through your house.
• Since fans create a cooling effect by moving air across your skin, opening the windows and using one or more fans during very hot and humid weather won’t be an effective cooling strategy – especially if you’re accustomed to using an air conditioner most of the time. In fact, your cooling costs will increase significantly, because opening the windows will increase the humidity your air-conditioning unit needs to remove, forcing the system to run longer than normal.
• On a cool, low-humidity night, a whole-house fan can cut the temperature in your home in a relatively short time. A whole-house fan can reduce your home’s indoor temperature by up to 20 degrees, depending on the temperature outside. This type of fan usually is installed in a hallway ceiling on the top floor of your house. It works by pulling the cool outside air from open windows on the lowest living level of the house into the attic, where warm air is vented to the outside.
• A small fan is not adequate for cooling large areas. An oscillating fan, box fan or table fan is a good choice for one person, circulating the air in a small room or extending the cooling range of a window- or wall-mounted air conditioner.
• Choose the correct ceiling fan for damp or wet areas. For a bathroom, buy an Energy Star® qualified, U.L. listed fan with a damp rating. For a location where a fan might come into direct contact with water – such as a porch – select a fan with a wet rating.  

Iowa has much to be proud of regarding cost-effective, renewable electricity. Our state leads all others with 31 percent of electric generation coming from wind and is second nationally in wind energy production. As technological innovation uncovers new opportunities, we’re beginning to see the potential for solar generation here in the Midwest.

The not-for-profit electric cooperatives of Iowa, which collectively power the lives of more than 650,000 people every day, are leading with local solutions to incorporate solar generation into our energy mix, including community solar subscriptions and utility-scale solar arrays. This year, nine Iowa co-ops are leading or participating in solar projects – and this number will surely increase.

Because we're owned and guided by the people we serve, electric co-ops have unique priorities. Our co-op managers and local, elected directors are committed to providing electricity that is safe, reliable, affordable and environmentally responsible. As innovation makes solar generation more affordable, you’ll see more cooperatives harnessing the power of the sun. Co-op solar is member-owned solar, and we’re looking ahead to incorporate more solar generation.

Some Iowa cooperatives are already making plans to add solar to their generation portfolio, which benefits all member-owners regardless of their income level or home ownership/rental status. For example, Central Iowa Power Cooperative, serving co-ops throughout 58 Iowa counties, recently announced plans to launch Iowa’s largest utility based solar project, which should be operational by the end of this year. Dairyland Power Cooperative, a Wisconsin-based generation and transmission co-op that provides power for over 23,000 Iowa co-op households, recently announced plans to add 15 megawatts of solar capacity.

For co-op member-owners who are unable to install their own on-site solar or who don’t want to handle the installation or maintenance of their own array, community solar is an excellent option. Several locally owned electric co-ops throughout Iowa now offer community solar subscriptions to their member-owners, giving them an opportunity to support this renewable energy option.

As more of our co-op member-owners explore investing in their own on-site solar generation, we’re committed to helping them make informed decisions based on their energy needs and goals. We recently worked with the Iowa Energy Center as they developed a resourceful 32-page booklet, the Solar PV Energy Guide, which provides detailed information on every aspect of the decision-making process. As we navigate this new solar frontier with our member-owners, reliable information is essential.

Each of Iowa’s electric co-ops must listen to the unique needs of their member-owners to make the best long-term decisions for safe, reliable, affordable power that’s environmentally responsible. For more than 75 years, electric co-ops have been working to improve the quality of life for our member-owners, and we’re looking forward to serving our communities in new and innovative ways with the power of solar. That’s the power of America’s electric cooperatives. 

Chuck Soderberg is the executive vice president and general manager of the Iowa Association of Electric Cooperatives. 

Iowa law encourages the development of renewable energy sources and doesn’t allow utility consumers to be subject to discriminatory, disadvantageous or prejudicial rates or terms for utility services based on a consumer’s use or intended use of renewable energy resources. But it’s your job to figure out what approach will work best for your family.

1. Maximize energy efficiency. Completion of a thorough energy efficiency audit is an important precursor to considering a solar energy system. Implementing energy efficiency measures in advance of installing a solar energy system can save you money and reduce the size of the solar energy system you’ll need to meet your energy needs.

2. Check with local authorities. Plan a visit with your local authorities to learn the requirements for obtaining a building permit and to learn if there are any local ordinances that either may prevent the construction of a solar array or limit its size, location, visibility and setbacks. If your community has not addressed development of residential solar, you may experience delays while rules and requirements are developed. If you live in a platted development, you also should check for building restrictions and other requirements in the covenants put in place by the developer of the plat. You’ll find them in the abstract to your property.

3. Check with your local electric cooperative. Schedule a personal visit with your electric co-op. During your visit, obtain information that may affect the location, size and cost of the array; the value of the energy generated by the array; the safety issues that need to be addressed; and any additional fees or costs that might be incurred with interconnection of a solar energy system.

Iowa law requires that the owner must provide written notice to the utility no later than 30 days prior to the commencement of construction or installation of an alternate energy production facility, including a solar array. Iowa’s utilities have an obligation to interconnect, and the Iowa Utilities Board has a streamlined process for interconnection of a solar energy system; if you have a question about interconnection requirements, contact the Iowa Utilities Board at 515-725-7321 or send an e-mail to customer@iub.iowa.gov.

In addition, you need to learn about the following things:

• What will your electric rate be after the array is connected to the grid, and will the array change your usage rate and monthly service charge?
• How will you be compensated for excess generation, and what is the buyback rate for excess generation sold to the utility? For example, if net metering is offered, learn if banking excess generation is allowed and how often the account is settled (monthly, annually or never). If settlement dates are applied annually, identify which month is used and if there are choices related to the settlement month.
•  If net metering is not offered, learn what the selling and purchasing rates will be for the net billing policy and if the points of settlement are monthly or annual. It’s imperative to talk to your utility to understand how your load profile will work with your settlement month.
• What effect will the solar energy system have on the current rates under which you’re purchasing electric service from your electric co-op and on any end-use rates that you may be receiving, such as electric heat and geothermal rates?
• If you’re on a demand or time-of-use rate, will your bill be impacted?
• If you have multiple meters or sub-meters, how many meters do you anticipate may be offset by a single solar array interconnection? Or, how may multiple meters and sub-meters be combined to offset more loads – and what are the electric rate implications for doing so?
• Does your utility offer a community-based solar opportunity or green-pricing program? A community-based solar program may afford you the benefits of a solar array without the maintenance responsibilities.

Note that the information you receive from your electric co-op will represent current rates and tariffs. With the appropriate approval, rate structures and tariffs may be adjusted over time to reflect changes in your utility’s cost of providing service.

4. Understand your electric utility bill and your electricity usage patterns. Review 1 to 2 years of historical usage and cost records. This history will help you understand how much electricity you’re using – and when you’re using it. You also should talk to your co-op to gain an understanding of the potential for future rate increases, as this will affect the economics of your project.

If you’re looking to reduce your peak demand with a solar installation, you’ll want to make sure you understand the time and duration of your historical peak demand and understand if the expected output of your solar energy system will adequately serve that purpose. Before purchasing a system, it’s critical to speak with your co-op to understand how solar energy generation will be applied to your bill. This will help you to develop a realistic estimate of potential savings from a solar energy system.

5. Prepare for a site assessment. After completing your initial research, a preliminary site assessment will help to determine the parameters and constraints that need to be considered during the design, bidding and construction phases.

Get your free copy of the Solar PV Energy Guide

You may read the book online or download a complete PDF copy at the website of the Iowa Energy Center; click here or go to www.iowaenergycenter.org. In the Search box at the top of the page, enter the name of the book: Solar PV Energy Guide. In addition, a limited number of printed copies are available at your local electric cooperative’s office.

Tip No. 1: Premium units like the Honeywell Lyric Round Wi-Fi Thermostat (shown) and the Nest Thermostat include features that were unthinkable just a few years ago. You can control the device from anywhere with a smart phone via your home’s Wi-Fi network, receive alerts about system problems and have the 68 degrees you set really feel like 68 degrees, because the thermostat considers both temperature and humidity to maintain your comfort.

Tip No. 2: Heat pumps may require a special unit to maximize energy savings year-round. Talk to your electric cooperative, a retailer or an HVAC contractor before selecting a new thermostat.

Tip No. 3: Mount your thermostat on an interior wall, away from windows, doors, lamps or heat registers. Sunlight streaming through a window or a breeze from an open door or nearby duct can trick your thermostat into thinking your heating or cooling system should cycle.

Disclaimer

A reasonably competent home do-it-yourselfer should be able to complete this project in a relatively short time. If you’re uncomfortable with the techniques mentioned here or a product manufacturer’s instructions, please contact a professional technician, licensed electrician or qualified contractor for assistance.

Dimmers

• When you dim a bulb 50 percent, you use 40 percent less electricity.
• Can extend bulb life up to 20 times.
• Create atmosphere anywhere in your home; ideal for entertaining in living or dining rooms – or watching movies in your home theater.

Occupancy sensors 

• Offer hands-free convenience and added safety (especially for toddlers and seniors) by automatically turning on lights when you enter a room – and turning them off when you leave, after a set time period.
• Great for basements, laundry rooms, hallways, garages and stairwells – anyplace where lights accidentally may be left on long after you’ve already left.

Digital timers

• Ideal for controlling lights, exhaust fans, hot tubs and spas for a preset time limit.
• Most include battery backup. motion detectors
• Cut costs by keeping outdoor flood- lights near buildings and walkways off until you walk near them – then safely light your way home.
• Offer good protection against prowlers and break-ins.

Then try incorporating several of these no-cost tips into your daily routine.​​

Keep your cool in living areas

• Stop the sun’s warmth from getting into your home by closing blinds and curtains during the day. Light colors will reflect the most heat.
• Avoid sitting near a sun-exposed wall (particularly brick or masonry) during sunny afternoons. Wall insulation is effective for blocking conductive heat gain, but not radiant heat. So, when the outside wall gets hot in the sun, the radiant heat will come right through the wall to your skin, making the area feel a couple of degrees warmer than the actual room air temperature.
• Keep interior lights dimmed or turned off during daylight hours. However, turning on a table lamp for reading in a darkened room is a better choice than letting the sun stream in through a south or west window. On the other hand, north or east windows could provide enough light without significantly adding to the heat gain in an individual room.
• Turn off or unplug the television, entertainment equipment and computer when not in use. Many of these devices consume power and produce heat in the standby mode, so unplug them if you won’t be using them for several days. The only way to turn off the power supply for a device such as a cordless phone or cable TV or satellite box is to unplug it.
• Remember to unplug chargers for your cell phone, tablet and other electrical devices when they’re not being used. Even though chargers only use a small amount of electricity, they generate heat that quickly can add up in a room.

Take advantage of windows

• Try a few tests to find out which windows will maximize natural ventilation. The wind creates areas of positive and negative pressure around your house, so windows near upwind areas will be cool air inlets and windows near suction areas will be warm air outlets. Slightly opened windows will create a better air current than fully opened ones.
• If air needs to take a longer path between windows, more of your house will be cooled. Don’t locate inlet windows and outlet windows directly opposite each other, because the only area that will be cooled will be in the direct path of the airflow.
• Close windows and doors during the hottest part of the day. If your house is well-tightened and insulated, your inside rooms should stay relatively cool during mid- to late-afternoon hours.
• Open windows on cool, low-humidity nights to flush out internal and solar heat that builds up during the day. Leave windows closed when the humidity is high, or your air conditioner will have to work extra-hard to remove the moisture from the air when you turn it on.
• Keep air moving inside your home to increase evaporative cooling from your skin.  You’ll stay comfortable at a higher indoor temperature. Running a ceiling fan is very effective for this; set the fan on medium to high speed and the rotation to counterclockwise so it blows the air downward. Also remember that the electric motor in the fan actually heats the room air, so turn it off when the room is unoccupied.

Play it smart in the kitchen and bath

• Use your most energy-efficient appliances for cooking. Instead of using your stove or oven, for example, choose your microwave oven or a countertop appliance such as a toaster oven, slow cooker, steamer or pressure cooker.
• Cook with cold water. Heating the water on your stove or cooktop consumes less energy than using hot water from your water heater –  especially if doing so causes your water heater to cycle.
• Choose pots and pans that fit the size of cooktop burners. A 6-inch pot on an 8-inch burner loses about 40 percent of the burner’s heat to the surrounding air. Conversely, oversized pots and pans won’t heat efficiently, extending cooking times.
• Put a lid on it! Lids help your pots and pans retain heat and humidity, allowing foods to cook faster and more efficiently. Your kitchen will stay cooler too.
• Limit oven preheating. Many recipes don’t really require a preheated oven, but if they do – and your oven doesn’t automatically handle the preheating function – restrict preheating time to a maximum of 10 minutes.
• Run your dishwasher late at night. Start the dishwasher when you go to bed. If it has a timer, set the dishwasher to run during nonpeak hours in the middle of the night.
• Let the dishes air-dry. If there’s no air-dry button, stop the cycle after the final rinse and prop open the door. (Watch for escaping steam when you first open the door!)
• Check the temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer. The temperatures should run 38°-40° F. in the refrigerator and 0°-5° F. in the freezer. Setting colder temperature levels wastes energy and makes these heat-producing appliances run too often.
• Allow cooked foods to cool before putting them in the refrigerator. Adding hot foods to the refrigerator will make the compressor run overtime to compensate for the higher temperatures. Use shallow containers so the foods will cool more quickly.
• Prevent heat and dust buildup that will cause your refrigerator to run more often. Leave about 3 inches of open space on both sides and the top of its cabinet. And don’t use those spaces to store items such as step stools, flattened cardboard or TV trays.
• Use the exhaust fans. Vent steam and heat from cooking or showering to the outdoors. However, don’t run an exhaust fan longer than necessary; in one hour, an exhaust fan can blow a house full of cooled air outside.
• Take shorter baths and showers. They add a lot of humidity to your home and can increase the time your air conditioner runs.

Adjust settings in the laundry

• Use cold water for washing clothes. If you need to wash a warm- or hot-water load, run it during the late-evening or early-morning hours.
• Only wash full loads. If you don’t have enough clothes for a full load, set the washer’s water level to match the load’s size.
• Select an extended spin cycle. This option will force the greatest amount of water from clothes, reducing drying time. (Note: This setting may not be appropriate for delicate and specialty fabrics.)
• Check the dryer’s lint trap before every load. Also frequently look at the ducting and exterior vent to make sure they’re clear. Excessive lint buildup can make your dryer run longer.
• Choose dryer settings that use the moisture sensor near the drum to shut off the appliance as soon as clothes are dry. Gently clean the moisture sensor regularly with a little rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab or rag to remove the buildup from chemicals in fabrics and fabric softeners.
• Fluff bulky items as you load them. Towels, sheets, jeans and other heavy clothing will dry faster if you separate and shake them before tossing them in the dryer.
• Dry clothes on an outdoor clothesline. Wet clothes on an indoor clothesline will add humidity to your home and increase the load on your air-conditioning system.  

The concept is simple: Heat the flooring and the objects on the floor, and they’ll radiate the warmth into the room. And, according to the Radiant Professionals Alliance, you could see a reduction in utility costs by using radiant heat in place of (or to supplement) more common heating methods.

Here’s how radiant flooring works. Grab a mug filled with hot coffee. You’ll not only feel the heat rising from the hot brew, but also will feel the warmth radiating from the sides and the bottom of the mug. Radiant energy is the transfer of heat to a cooler surface – in this case, into your hands holding the mug. While heated air rises, heat energy radiates in any direction – but always toward a cooler surface.

Your comfort at home relies both on the temperature of the air around you and radiant heat transfer. During winter, your forced-air furnace or heat pump blows warm air on you, but your feet may be cold. That’s because heated air rises, and the coolest air swirls around your toes. Radiant floor heat delivers controlled, comfortable heat where it matters most – where you live in your home, not 8 or 9 feet above the floor near the ceiling.

In most cases, you should hire a professional contractor to install your electric radiant heating system (although do-it-yourself kits are available). The cables, mats, films or mesh netting – each with a heating element – go in the “mud” under ceramic tile or stone, in concrete before final finishing or beneath hardwood floors; they’ll add, on average, anywhere from an eighth to a half inch to the thickness of the flooring. Note that radiant heat is a little less effective in areas that are carpeted, due to the insulating nature of the carpet and the pad underneath it.

For a retrofit to an existing bathroom or other room over a basement, you can use electric panels that go between the floor joists to warm the floor above, although the installation won’t provide quite as much warmth as one above the subflooring.

The benefits of radiant floor heat include warming up specific areas of your home when and where you need it. For example, you can use a programmable thermostat to preheat the bathroom floor before you get up in the morning. In addition, you can heat rooms by zone in your home to lower energy consumption, asking the system to cycle on and off in specific areas to match your family’s schedule.

With the diversity of products and applications available, there’s virtually no limit to where you can use radiant floor heating technology in your home. It’s a particularly good choice for solving heating problems for a room addition or remodeling project where tapping into a heating system – or installing a new, larger unit – isn’t an economical or practical solution.

By the way, water-based hydronic radiant heating systems also are available, often used in conjunction with the installation of a new ground-source heat pump. However, putting in a new hydronic setup can have a major impact on your bank account, unless it’s figured into the cost of a new house or included in the budget for a major remodeling project at an existing home.

Before you buy, talk with a few installers about designing a system specific to your needs, and make sure the radiant heating products are UL listed and approved for use with your specific floor coverings. Ask about the safety aspects of the installation too, including whether the heating elements are grounded and the electrical circuit is protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter. Finally, take a look at the available control units; if possible, choose a programmable thermostat for the most versatility and greatest energy savings; some are compatible with home thermostats you can control from your mobile phone or tablet.

If you’re going the do-it-yourself route, all of the safety points listed above still apply. Measure carefully (at least twice) and double-check each step of the installation – especially electrical connections – before you add the final flooring. Once the flooring is down, it will be very difficult to correct any problems with the system.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

These companies sell radiant heating products.

Applied Radiant Technologies
WEBSITE: www.appliedradiant.com/ elect.htm
PHONE: 215-258-0930

Step Warmfloor
WEBSITE: www.warmfloor.com
PHONE: 877-783-7832

Warmly Yours
WEBSITE: www.warmlyyours.com
PHONE: 800-875-5285

Watts Radiant
WEBSITE: www.wattsradiant.com/ products/heatweave
PHONE: 800-276-2419

However, fans don’t cool rooms the same way an air conditioner does; instead, fans create a cooling effect by moving air across your skin. So, opening the windows and using one or more fans during very hot and humid weather won’t be an effective cooling strategy– especially if you’re accustomed to using an air conditioner most of the time. Your cooling costs might go up, because opening the windows will increase the humidity your airconditioning unit needs to remove, forcing the system to run longer than normal. 

Window fans and whole-house fans are the best choices for accomplishing power ventilation in your home. Smaller oor, table and ceiling fans are best used to create a single-room “wind-chill” effect and are much less e ective as whole-house ventilators. 

No matter what type of fan you need, when you go shopping look for a one that’s ENERGY STAR® qualifed. Ceiling fan/ light combination units that have earned the ENERGY STAR are about 50 percent more efficient than conventional models. Also be sure to look for a model with a high-quality motor and a long-term warranty, to choose a fan with a low noise rating and to consider a fan with “airfoil-style” blades that are designed to maximize air flow. 

• A ceiling fan will allow you to be comfortable at a higher temperature in occupied rooms and let you raise the thermostat in those areas. A good ceiling fan should create enough air movement that you will be comfortable at 82 degrees and 80 percent relative humidity. If you’re using the fan to supplement or circulate air-conditioning, you should be able to raise the thermostat a full four degrees and still be comfortable. For every degree you raise your air conditioner’s thermostat, you’ll save about three to five percent on your cooling costs. 
• Choose the correct ceiling fan for damp or wet areas. For a bathroom, buy a fan that has been U.L. listed with a damp rating. For a location where a fan might come into direct contact with water – such as a porch – select a fan with a wet rating.
• Use the appropriate ceiling fan mount and downrod length for the slope and height of your ceiling. Mount the fan as closely as possible to the middle of the room – at least seven feet above the oor. If the ceiling allows, a height of eight or nine feet is better for optimal air ow. A “hugger” fan, which mounts ush to the ceiling, will not move as much air because its blades will be just a few inches from the ceiling. 
• Set the direction of ceiling fans for proper air circulation. Run ceiling fans in a counterclockwise direction – as viewed from below – during warm weather months. 
• Use window fans to create crossventilation on warm, still days. Open windows on the shady side of your house and position the fans so they blow air out of windows on the hot side of the house. Be sure to tie back curtains so they don’t get into the fan. 
• On a cool, low-humidity night, a whole-house fan can cut the temperature in your home by up to 20 degrees in a relatively short time. A whole-house fan pulls the cool outside air from open windows on the lowest living level of your home into the attic, where warm air is vented to the outside. This type of fan usually is installed in a hallway ceiling on the top floor of your house. 
• A small fan is not adequate for cooling large areas. An oscillating fan, box fan or table fan are good choices for one-person cooling, circulating the air in a small room or extending the cooling range of a window- or wall-mounted air conditioner. 
• Remove heat, humidity and odors from the kitchen and bathroom with a properly sized exhaust fan. Don’t leave an exhaust fan on longer – or at a higher speed – than necessary. In one hour, an exhaust fan can blow a houseful of cooled air outside.

·  The make, model, and size – so you know exactly what product a label describes.

·  A list of key features – for appliances you’re looking at and similar models that make up the cost range shown.

·  The cost range of competitors – to helps you evaluate the energy use of comparable models by showing you the range of operating costs for models with similar features.

Not all appliances have EnergyGuide labels, including ranges, ovens, clothes dryers, humidifiers, and dehumidifiers. However, you should find an EnergyGuide label on all of these appliances: clothes washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, televisions, water heaters, window air conditioners, central air conditioners, furnaces, boilers, heat pumps, and pool heaters. If the label is missing and the retailer can’t help you, check the manufacturer’s website.

In addition, you may see two different types of EnergyGuide labels. The new version with all yellow numbers (at left in photo, above) is being used for appliances rated by updated energy efficiency tests. Make sure the models you’re comparing have EnergyGuide labels with either all yellow numbers or all black numbers; you can’t compare appliances with different style labels.

Also note that EnergyGuide labels are appliance-specific. For example, furnace labels don't have operating costs, while dishwasher labels have two costs – one for people who use electric water heaters, and another for people who use gas water heaters. Still, all EnergyGuide labels give you a way to compare the energy use of similar appliances.

Finally, look for an Energy Star logo, which signifies that an appliance meets the strict energy efficiency criteria established by the U.S. Department of Energy and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The Energy Star standards significantly exceed the minimums required by federal energy-efficiency standards.

For the latest information on Energy Star qualified appliances, including updates in qualification standards and a list of products by manufacturer), go to www.energystar.gov.

Here are the steps:
1. Fill in your ZIP Code, and the program will ask about your home’s style, square footage, year built, foundation, attic, garage, and the number of adults and kids living in the home.
2. After confirming (or editing) these details, you can choose one of four broad categories in your home to evaluate: Attic, Living Space, Basement and Systems.
3. For example, after clicking on Living Space, the resulting page shows six highlighted dots. Each one represents the availability of several projects.
4. Clicking on a dot unveils a specific topic area. Hit the Download Project button to go to the Energy-Saving Recipes.
5. In this section, you can download PDFs showing the instructions, tools needed, materials list and other tips for all of the projects – for you or your contractor.

But that’s not all. Hit the Project Tracker button at the bottom of any of the four category pages, and you’ll find project ratings by priority, cost and difficulty level.

Home is where the heart is for most residents of the Hawkeye State. It’s comforting, it’s safe and it’s where you make memories. But what about your home’s sustainability – or your ability to live there for a long time, into your retirement years? You likely expect your safe haven to last as far as you can see into the future, enjoying it with family and friends.

In January 2010, the first of 80 million baby boomers turned 65 years old, which means nearly 30 percent of the U.S. population now is entering their retirement years. According to a recent survey conducted by the American Association of Retired Persons, 84 percent of baby boomers would like to stay in their current homes during their retirement years, but only 16 percent have taken any steps to adapt their homes for retirement.

This home showcases solutions tailored to meet the needs of baby boomers
Remodeling magazine’s Home for Life project house, a collaborative effort of designers, universal design consultants, efficiency specialists and professional organizations, offers a variety of ideas that showcase the concepts of universal design and aging in place – an important topic for consumers and remodelers as baby boomers enter their retirement years in record numbers.

The Home for Life team began by constructing a 1970s-model suburban home and implementing updates based on aesthetics, functionality and efficiency. For example, hallways and doorways were widened and walls were removed to create a more open floor plan. Another facet of accessibility was the focus in the kitchen and bathrooms, with specially designed storage, drawer-style appliances and countertops and sinks installed at reduced heights.
 
Lowering the home’s heating and cooling costs for years through energy-saving home improvements was a priority too. The home’s performance got an update with the latest in energy-efficient practices and cutting-edge products that not only cut down on energy consumption but also can improve indoor air quality and the health and safety of occupants.

“It’s not just about energy-efficiency,” says Larry Zarker, CEO at the Building Performance Institute, which served as Home for Life’s high-performance guru. “It’s also about addressing health concerns, such as asthma triggers found in the home, and safety issues, including preventing gas and carbon monoxide leaks.”

Another concern was saving money and reducing hassles over time by choosing low-maintenance materials and products with long life cycles. Ingress and egress also were addressed, adding a side entrance with no steps and one-level access from the home to the back porch to the backyard.

What is universal design?
The most common misconception about universal design, says Herman Johnson, senior architectural specialist at Case and one of the project’s designers, is that people often think of it as something useful only to those with limited mobility. “The spaces are not just about grab bars and wide hallways. Many universal design features are very subtle,” he says, pointing to thoughtful details like raised front-loading washers and dryers that make loading and unloading laundry easier on everyone.

“We’re really after the mainstream audience by adding features that blend in,” says Richard Duncan, executive director at Better Living Design and another Home for Life participant. “Remodelers can bring clients features they’ll see in Home for Life that will work well and look great. They’ll be able to offer all these convenience and ease-of-use things everyone will like that also happen to work with them long-term.”

The resulting Home for Life is a design filled with ideas as beautiful and functional as they are adaptable. You can use the design as a template for your own project, or pick and choose the best ideas that fit your needs in creating your own home for life.

Take a quick room-by-room tour
This started as a typical suburban home from the ‘70s. Now it’s a Home for Life that offers a classic design packed with subtle features to enhance accessibility, durability and energy-efficiency – ensuring the home will be comfortable and convenient for its owners and their guests through every stage of their lives.
    •    While the front entrance features a typical two-step porch, a discreetly accessible side entrance includes a step-free walk and entrance for accessibility without the need for a ramp or lift.
    •    The kitchen offers enhanced convenience for every member of the family, through thoughtful details such as drawer appliances, varying counter heights and a wide range of storage options.
    •    An elevator provides convenient access to the entire home, but the master suite on the main level provides the owners with everything they need for single-level living.
    •    There are no tacky add-on grab handles here: A barrier-free shower, wide doorways, two-level vanity and discreet handholds provide complete accessibility in the master bath.
    •    By eliminating interior walls where possible, the home’s new design offers an open, contemporary layout that’s perfect for family gatherings and entertaining friends.
    •    A covered back porch offers an easy-to-access outdoor living area on the main level. It also enhances the home’s summer cooling performance by shading the house from the sun.

For More Information
Go to www.homeforlife2014 for a virtual tour of the Home for Life, as well as information on topics such as universal design, energy-efficient home improvements, sustainability and leading-edge products.

Outside air can help
Adding a source of combustion air that ducts into the fireplace can help a great deal – and it works well in combination with glass doors. The fire then will draw the air it needs for proper combustion and draft from outside, rather than conditioned air from inside. 

However, the best tip is to avoid us-ing the fireplace in extremely cold weather. All of the indoor air lost up the chimney is being replaced by cold air drawn indoors through leaks in your home’s exterior walls. During milder weather, the air leaking indoors isn’t quite as cold, so it takes less energy to warm it.

Slightly opening the closest window to the fireplace and closing the door to the room also will help, because much of the excess air being drawn up the chimney will be outdoor air from the open window. When sitting right in front of the hot fire, you probably won’t notice the chilly breeze.

Also, burn only well-seasoned wood – or no more than one unseasoned log with three seasoned ones. If you try to burn more unseasoned wood, the fire will require more combustion air to keep burning well, drawing even more air out of your home.

For safety’s sake, don’t add wood to the fire several hours before bedtime, so the fire will be out by the time you go to sleep. It’s not safe to leave a smoldering fire unattended. Also, if the fire is completely out, you can close the chimney damper to block room air loss without filling the room with smoke.

Invest in efficiency
If you make just one investment to improve the efficiency of your fire-place, it should be to install high-quality glass doors. These doors control the amount of indoor air that escapes up the chimney when a fire is burning and also when you’re not using the fireplace. 

Good fireplace doors are not inexpensive, but they’re worth the price. The best doors are relatively airtight when closed, and by adjusting combustion air vents in the bottom of the frame, you still can have a raging fire without major indoor air loss.

Keep in mind that a fire needs an adequate supply of combustion air for an efficient, clean burn. If you reduce the airflow too much, creosote buildup will occurs and enhance the potential for a chimney fire.

When your fireplace isn’t in use, insert an inflatable chimney pillow or balloon in the fireplace flue; it seals much better than the chimney damper. Once the pillow is inflated, it should stay in place. (Some models include a pole to keep it steady.)

Chimney-top dampers, which operate from indoors with a chain, also help reduce air leakage and keep critters and debris out of the chimney. It’s a good idea to hang a sign or ribbon in the fireplace to indicate that a pillow is installed or the damper is shut. This hopefully will stop someone from building a fire when the chimney is closed. 

Make the most of heat output
There are several designs of heat-circulating grates that can increase the heat output from a fireplace. Many grates are designed to fit snugly under the bottom edge of the fireplace doors and contain an electric blower that circulates indoor air through the grate, helping keep the air in the room warm.

If you decide to purchase a heat-circulating grate, select a model with a blower that has several speeds and a thermostat with an on/off switch to shut off the blower when the fire burns down. If you prefer to use the fireplace with the doors open, tubular heat-circulating grates are available to blow the heat directly out the front of the firebox. Other models have no blower and rely on natural convection.

A circulating heat exchanger with built-in glass doors also is available for a more airtight combination. In addition, some units include an optional upper oven section for cooking and baking. 

For more tips on getting the most from your fireplace, check the new Home Efficiency Analysis Tool from Touchstone Energy® Cooperatives at http://homeefficiency.togetherwesave.com.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
These companies offer fireplace efficiency products.

Battic Door
Website: www.batticdoor.com
Phone: 508-320-9082

Diamond W Products
Website: www.diamond-w.com
Phone: 248-652-8833

Northline Express
Website: www.northlineexpress.com
Phone: 866-667-8454

SaverSystems
Website: www.homesafetyproducts.biz
Phone: 800-860-6327

Stoll Fireplace Inc.
Website: www.stollfireplace.com
Phone: 800-421-0771

No matter what type of packaging it comes in, a space heater really is a pretty simple device – and it’s very efficient, since almost all of the electric energy that goes into the unit is converted to heat. That being said, keep in mind that any time a portable electric space heater is turned on and producing heat, it’s also consuming energy.

Does a space heater make sense for your family?
Some people buy a portable electric space heater to warm a chilly room. Others are trying to compensate for a variety of energy-wasting problems in their homes, such as a poorly maintained furnace, inadequate insulation, missing caulk around windows or damaged weather stripping around doors.

If you’re intrigued by the idea of experimenting with zone heating – in this case, setting the temperature of all the rooms in your home considerably lower than normal and warming one room with a portable electric space heater – first check the free Honeywell Portable Heat Savings Calculator at www.honeywellheatsavings.com. (On the home page, click on Savings Calculator.) You may find that – excluding the cost of the space heater – you might be able to save a couple of hundred dollars a year on your utility bill, if you’re willing to put up with the discomfort of an always-chilly house and the inconvenience of moving a portable electric space heater to whatever room you’re occupying at the time.

In reality, the only way a portable electric space heater is going to significantly help you lower your annual heating bill is if you use it to heat only the room you’re in and turn down the thermostat – to as low as 50 degrees – for the rest of the house. This premise was the basis for past energy-saving claims made by at least one manufacturer of pretty (and pricey) furniture-style electric space heaters.

There’s another consideration: If your electric cooperative offers a special electric rate for a central heating system wired to a separate meter, the space heater will use main house power that’s billed at the regular rate – not the lower rate available for the central heating system. So, you’ll actually be reducing your energy usage at the lower rate and increasing your energy usage at the higher rate – which means you could be saving energy overall, but still may end up paying more on your monthly power bill than you would pay by not using a space heater!

Here’s the bottom line
To your electric meter, all space heaters pretty much look alike. Spending the same amount on energy-saving home improvements as you’d spend on an electric space heater likely would be a better investment in whole-house comfort – and reduced heating (and air-conditioning) bills for many years to come.

For a wide variety of energy-saving, do-it-yourself tips, visit the Touchstone Energy® Cooperatives website at www.togetherwesave.com – or discover the best places to save in your home by using the organization’s new Home Efficiency Analysis Tool at http://homeefficiency.togetherwesave.com.

Follow these safety tips to prevent home fires

After checking to see if your electric space heater has been recalled, give the unit a checkup before plugging it in.

If your space heater hasn’t been recalled, give it the once-over. Inspect the case, guard, controls, cord and plug – and never operate a heater you suspect is damaged. If the unit looks OK, follow all of the manufacturer’s operating and maintenance instructions. Also check for a secure fit of the space heater’s plug in the wall outlet. If it’s loose, use another outlet to power the heater and have an electrician replace the original outlet.

Here are some more safety tips to keep in mind:

• Place the heater on a level, hard and nonflammable surface – not on a rug or carpet – where people won’t bump into it.

• Never run the heater’s cord under a rug or carpet. This can damage the cord, causing it and nearby objects to burn.

• Keep the heater at least 3 feet from bedding, drapes, furniture, papers and other flammable materials.

• Don’t power the heater with an extension cord or power strip.

• Always turn off the space heater when you go to sleep – and don’t put one close to a sleeping person.

• Turn off the space heater if you leave the house or even the room where the heater’s located.

• Keep children and pets away from the unit at all times.

• During use, frequently check to see if the heater’s plug or cord – or the wall outlet – is hot. If either of them is, immediately discontinue using the heater. Then replace the heater or have it inspected and repaired by an authorized technician. If the outlet is hot, call an electrician to check and/or replace the wall outlet.

• To prevent electrical shocks and electrocutions, always keep the electric heater away from water, and never touch an electric heater if you’re wet.

For more information on space heater safety, go to the UL website at http://ul.com or the CPSC website at www.cpsc.gov.

Millions of dangerous, faulty space heaters have been recalled. Is yours one of them?

Even if you haven’t received a recall notice on your space heater – many people don’t, since they didn’t register their space heater with the manufacturer when they purchased it – check to see if it’s been recalled, before you plug it in for the first time this fall. Go to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) website at www.cpsc.gov, and enter the manufacturer’s name and/or model number in the Search box at the top of the page. Check the Recalls & News Releases button before starting your search.

A faulty space heater can present a burn hazard or overheat and catch fire, damaging your home. If you own a recalled unit, don’t use it until it’s been repaired or replaced.

Solar heat absorbed through your home’s windows and roof increases your cooling costs, but – depending on the location and orientation of the trees and your house – you can gain signifi-cant energy savings by planting shade trees. In summer, a tree’s shade can cool surrounding air temperatures by as much as 9 degrees, and air temperatures directly under trees can be as much as 25 degrees cooler. This means that if your home currently is unshaded, you could be able to cut summer air-conditioning costs by 15 to 50 percent.

For areas where sunlight can come in through windows for natural warmth in the winter, choose deciduous trees (ones that lose their leaves in the fall) with high, spreading crowns to provide maximum shading during summer. Trees with crowns lower to the ground are more appropriate on the west side of your home, where shade is needed from lower afternoon sun angles.

Although a slow-growing shade tree may require many years of growth before it shades your roof, it generally will live longer than a fast-growing tree. Also, because slow-growing trees often have deeper roots and stronger branches, they’re less prone to breakage by windstorms or heavy snow loads. Slow-growing trees also can be more drought resistant than fast-growing trees.

Plant trees far enough away from your home so that when they mature, their root systems won’t contact the foundation – and branches can’t damage the roof. Also make sure trees won’t grow into your electric co-op’s power lines – and that branches damaged during a storm can’t fall into the lines.

A 6- to 8-foot deciduous tree planted near your home will begin shading windows the first year. Depending on the species and your home’s design, the tree should start shading the roof in 5 to 10 years.
Also consider shorter trees, shrubs and groundcover plants to shade the ground and pavement around the home, reducing heat radiation and cooling the air before it reaches your home's walls and windows. Use a large bush or row of shrubs to shade a sidewalk or driveway, plant a hedge to shade a sidewalk and build a trellis for climbing vines to shade a patio.

In addition, shading the coils of your outdoor air-conditioning unit or heat pump has the po-tential to modestly reduce energy demand. But if done improperly, there could be a net in-crease in energy use. Researchers from the Florida Solar Energy Center found that effective shading of an air-conditioning unit could yield energy savings of 6 percent, but an improper setup could result in a drop in efficiency of up to 15 percent. This drop in efficiency happens when vegetation blocks proper airflow to the unit or traps too much heat near it.

Plan about 3 feet of clearance – or whatever the manufacturer of the equipment recommends. Also be sure to frequently check the size of plants near the unit, because during the growing season the plants can creep closer to the system and interfere with proper air circulation.

For details on using shade trees to save energy, check the U.S. Department of Energy’s Ener-gy Efficiency and Renewable Energy website; go to its Energy Savers Landscape page at http://energy.gov/public-services/homes/landscaping. You’ll also find information about plant-ing windbreaks and landscaping for water conservation.

Plant the right tree in the right place

With a little research, careful planning and a simple layout, you can produce a landscape that will cool your home in summer and tame winter winds. Your well-planned yard should contain trees that grow well in the soil and moisture of your neighborhood, be properly placed to avoid collisions with power lines and buildings and increase your property’s value. 

According to the Arbor Day Foundation (www.arborday.org), a proper landscaping plan takes each tree into consideration:
• Height. Will the tree bump into anything when it’s fully grown?
• Canopy spread. How wide will the tree grow?
• Is the tree deciduous? Will it lose its leaves in the winter?
• Form or shape. A columnar tree will grow in less space. Round, oval and V-shaped species provide the most shade.
• Growth rate. How long will it take for your tree to reach its full height? Slow-growing species typically live longer than fast-growing species.
• Soil, sun and moisture requirements. Try to avoid choosing species that require extra care.
• Fruit. No one wants messy droppings on busy sidewalks.
• Hardiness Zone. Check with your community's tree board, forestry department or a lo-cal county cooperative extension agent for a list of trees suitable for planting in your specific area. You also can go to www.arborday.org to look up your Hardiness Zone; most of Iowa falls into Zone 5.

Be sure to consider the final shape of the tree

The character of tree crowns and the form or shape of trees varies among species as much as leaf shapes or bark patterns. Shape is a good clue as to how well a tree will fit the space you have available, what problems might occur and how well it will help meet the goals you have for your property.

For more information

Arbor Day Foundation
Locate information about planting and growing trees, shop online for landscaping trees and shrubs or join the organization to get 10 free trees with your membership.
PHONE: 888-448-7337
WEBSITE: www.arborday.org

Iowa State University Extension
Find out about trees native to Iowa, research soil conditions and learn how to establish and maintain a healthy lawn.
PHONE: 515-294-3108
WEBSITE: www.extension.iastate.edu

Shopping for a programmable thermostat?
There are plenty of brands and styles on the shelves at hardware stores, home centers and big-box retailers – but one thing you won’t find today is a programmable thermostat that carries the Energy Star® label. The organization dropped the label from these products in 2009. Why?

Programmable thermostats potentially can save you up to $180 a year on heating and cooling costs according to Energy Star, but many folks miss out on the savings by incorrectly setting up their new thermostats – or just using them like a conventional, old-style thermostat.

“Most people failed to use the programmable capabilities,” says Brian Sloboda, a program manager specializing in energy efficiency for the Cooperative Research Network, the research and development arm of the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association. This led to poor ratings on consumer surveys, which resulted in the loss of the Energy Star seal for most programmable thermostats.

Today, smart thermostats are an easier-to-use, but often more expensive, alternative. They come with electronics that help do the work of detecting and setting the temperature in your home.

“Sensors will start to turn the thermostat up or down, depending on the season,” Sloboda says. Within a few days of installing the device, the system will begin to learn your schedule, automatically dialing your thermostat back when you’re not home.

The addition of smart phone and iPad apps help make temperature control easy, he adds. “Using an app interface should be more intuitive than the old-fashioned programmable thermostat.” 

Residential lighting: Pay now, save later
By now you know that Thomas Edison’s incandescent lightbulb has dimmed. January 2014 marked the end of production for this style of bulb, under a federal provision to phase out and replace it with more energy-efficient options. Currently, there are three choices: halogen-incandescents, CFLs and LEDs.

LEDs are getting the most attention now in the marketplace, and their prices have dropped significantly during the last couple of years. Lighting experts recommend sticking with brands you know and trust. GE, Sylvania and Philips have been longtime consumer lighting choices, but Sloboda says don’t overlook the lesser-known Cree lighting products.

When you go shopping, spend a little time reading the Lighting Facts label on the packaging for the LEDs. It will come in handy when you want to narrow your lighting choice by light output, which is measured in lumens; choose the most lumens per number of watts. For example, an LED lightbulb that’s equivalent to a traditional 60-watt incandescent bulb may be rated at 800 lumens and 12 watts.

Also consider color temperature, which gives your bulbs a warm, soft white tone (which many people prefer for living and sleeping areas) or a cooler, daylight look for bathrooms, kitchens and work areas. A warm white bulb will have a yellowish tint and a color temperature of 2700K, while a daylight bulb will be at the other end of the color scale (blue) at 5000K. You also may see daylight-labeled bulbs that fall in between, at around 3500K. Try a couple of different LEDs to determine which you like best.

As with thermostats, smart devices also have arrived in the lightbulb aisle. Manufacturers such as Philips are among the companies manufacturing LEDs you can control from your cell phone, changing brightness and color to suit your mood.

“Today’s lighting is really starting to become part of a home’s entertainment system,” says Sloboda. “You can do things like create a party mode, a romantic mode, a reading mode or a mode for watching TV – all with the flip of a switch.” 

Smart power strips can unplug electronics for you
They’re usually trapped under a desk or behind a TV, but traditional power strips work hard to affordably expand the number of electrical outlets in your home. Unfortunately, their convenience can encourage you to leave electronics plugged in all the time – and many devices keep drawing power even when you're not using them. This phantom or vampire power drain wastes electricity and can be costly.

Continually unplugging household appliances and gadgets is one solution, but it’s not the best option for saving money, power or your time. Smart power strips can help. They’re color coded and designed to reduce usage by shutting down power to products that go into standby mode.

Most feature multiple outlet colors, each with a unique task. The blue outlet serves as a control plug, and is ideal for a heavily used device such as a TV or computer. Anything plugged into red outlets stays on, making it perfect for satellite boxes or other appliances that need constant power. The remaining outlets are sensitive to current flowing through the blue outlet, so turning off the TV or computer cuts power to them as well.

When choosing a water heater, the first decision to make is what size to buy. A 50-gallon unit is usually adequate for an average family. Next, look for the bright yellow EnergyGuide tag and check the unit’s energy factor (EF) rating. You should install an electric water heater with the highest EF rating possible – at least .90, which means that it’s 90 percent efficient. Although operating costs may be more or less than for an electric water heater, a natural gas water heater is an inherently less efficient energy user because a significant amount of energy escapes through the unit’s flue.

Two of the most efficient electric water heaters available today are the Marathon, produced by Rheem, and the General Electric GeoSpring Hybrid. Some electric co-ops have been offering the Marathon water heater to co-op members for many years. It comes with a lifetime warranty on the tank, which is made of a tough, lightweight polyethylene outer shell that’s guaranteed to never leak or rust. It is insulated with foam and has an energy factor rating of .91 to .95.

If you want an even more efficient unit, check out the G.E. GeoSpring Hybrid water heater. It’s Energy qualified and has an energy factor of 2.35 – that’s 235 percent efficiency. The GeoSpring uses heat pump technology to heat the water.

And, if you’re thinking about replacing your entire heating-and-cooling system, note that you can get virtually free hot water at least part of the year as a byproduct of a geothermal heating-and-cooling system. Instead of exhausting waste heat to the outdoor air like a standard heat pump does when the geothermal heat pump is cooling your home, this waste heat is diverted to your water heater. The device is called a desuperheater, and it’s offered as a standard or optional feature on most geothermal heat pumps.

Here are some ways to trim water-heating costs:

• Make sure your water heater is set at 120 degrees. This level will provide adequate hot water for most families.
• When possible, place your electric water heater on a 2-inch thick-rigid insulation board to insulate the bottom of the tank.
• Insulate hot water pipes to reduce heat losses as the hot water flows to your faucet or showerhead – and help minimize standby losses when the tap is turned on more than once an hour.
• Locate your water heater in a conditioned area, preferably close to the center of the house.
• If you own an electric water heater with an energy factor of less than .90, consider adding an insulating blanket over the unit to further insulate it. Check with the water heater’s manufacturer to make sure this is OK. 

Having said this, proper installation in a specific house can yield a reasonable payback and better comfort. The savings from installing a radiant barrier in the attic varies considerably, depending upon your climate, house design and construction, orientation to the sun and other factors. The Oak Ridge National Laboratory estimates the air-conditioning cost savings can range from about $150 annually for very hot climates to only $40 for cold climates.

An attic radiant barrier provides little positive or negative effect during the heating season. If your electric cooperative offers time-of-use rates, the savings may be somewhat higher.

It’s important to understand the basics of heat transfer

You need to know a house loses and gains heat, so you can fairly evaluate whether your home is a good candidate for a radiant barrier. The most important basic fact to know is that the rate at which heat flows from a hot area to a cold one is a function of the temperature difference between the two spaces.

Conduction is heat flow through a solid object or several objects touching one another. This is how the handle on an iron skillet gets hot on the stove. The walls and ceiling of a house also lose or gain heat this way, because the building materials are all nailed together.

Convection is where heat flows through a moving fluid or gas. This generally increases the rate of heat flow compared to plain conduction through a solid. An example is how your skin loses heat faster during winter on a windy day, causing a wind chill factor that in effect creates a lower temperature.

Radiation is heat flow directly from one object to another through a vacuum, air or glass. It’s not dependent on touching or fluid flow. This is how the sun heats the Earth or you feel warm sitting in front of a raging fire.

Radiant energy is unique

What makes radiant energy special in this discussion is that it’s much more affected by a temperature difference than the other types of heat flow. For conduction and convection, if the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors doubles, the heat flow also doubles. With radiation, the heat flow is 16 times greater when the temperature difference doubles.

This is why a radiant barrier is most often used in the attic to block heat flow through the roof. On a hot summer afternoon, the temperature of a dark shingled roof easily can reach 150 degrees. This hot roof conducts heat to the roof sheathing. From there, conduction takes over the radiant heat and carries it down through the insulation, to your ceiling and into your house.

A radiant barrier requires an air gap to prevent it from touching the hot surface; otherwise, it becomes a conductor like any other building material. Reinforced aluminum foil was originally was used as a radiant barrier, but now many barriers use plastic films with reflective surfaces.

In addition to reflectivity, emittance is a property of radiant barriers. It should be lower than 0.25 – 25 percent – in order to be an effective barrier. Aluminum foil is well below the 0.25 level. There also are reflective paints, such as Low/Mit (www.solec.org), that can be sprayed underneath the roof sheathing. Definitely check the emittance spec before signing any contract for installation of a radiant barrier.

However, to get the best payback from energy savings, it makes sense to install the radiant barrier yourself. Companies such as Innovative Insulation, Inc., (www.radiantbarrier.com) sell double-sided reflective foil for about $130 for a 4-foot x 250-foot roll. Invest in a hand construction stapler, a utility knife and a long straightedge and you’re ready to install the material.

The easiest method for installing a radiant barrier is to cut it into lengths and staple it underneath the roof rafters. It’s really not important how neatly it’s installed, but having adequate attic ventilation is critical  – preferably a combination of soffit and ridge vents. When installing single-sided foil, face the reflective side down to take advantage of its low emittance. 

Space heating probably accounts for the largest share of your utility bill during winter months, so have your heating system inspected by a professional technician to make sure it’s operating at peak efficiency.

To stop heated air from escaping into the attic, caulk the gap around the metal box for the bathroom ex-haust fan where it meets the ceiling. You’ll first need to turn off the power and remove the fan’s decora-tive grill or light cover. Instead of leaving a light in your home burning 24 hours a day, use a plug-in timer to turn on a lamp while you’re away.

Weather-strip the edges (and insulate the back) of the hatch or door to the crawl space.

Tightly close the fireplace damper whenever you don’t have a fire burning, to prevent air warmed by your home’s heating system from escaping up the chimney.

Run your ceiling fan on low speed in a clockwise direction – as you look at it from below – during cold-weather months to move the warm air that gathers near the ceiling back into the room. Then reduce your home’s thermostat setting by 2 or 3 degrees.

Computers, printers and other office devices consume power in the standby mode, so unplug them when they’re not in use – or plug them into a power strip and turn it off when you’re away.

Replace energy-wasting incandescent lightbulbs inside and outside your home with Energy Star® quali-fied compact fluorescent lightbulbs (CFLs) or light-emitting diodes (LEDs). Each bulb you switch will use about 75 percent less energy, save $30 or more over its lifetime and pay for itself long before the end of its service life.

Caulk trim where it meets the ceiling to prevent air leaks to the attic from rooms below.

Install a programmable thermostat. Models are available for almost every type of home heating and cooling system, and you can save up to $180 per year in energy costs.

Replace damaged or missing weather stripping to stop air leaks around door and window frames.

Find out how much insulation you have in your attic. A small investment there can pay big dividends in cutting your power bills and keeping your home more comfortable this winter.

Vacuum air registers, baseboard heaters or radiators. When you see dust, dirt, pet hair and lint building up, clean these parts of your home’s heating system so they’ll help efficiently heat your home.

Install draft-blocking foam insulating pads behind outlet and switch plates on outside walls. (Be sure to turn off the power first!)

Adjust the threshold under each exterior door to eliminate cold air leaks. If the threshold isn’t adjustable and you feel a cold air draft, replace the threshold with a new one in the appropriate style. Think there’s an air leak but you’re not quite sure? Place a dollar bill on the threshold and close the door. If you easily can pull out the dollar bill, adjust the threshold until it fits tightly against the bottom of the door.

Seal leaks in your heating system’s ducts using adhesive-backed foil tape or duct mastic specifically de-signed for the job. Ironically, duct tape is not the best thing to use, because the cloth-based tape often fails when subjected to heating cycles.

Plug in child-safety caps to minimize the amount of cold air coming through the sockets in outlets.

Make sure all the heat you’re paying for reaches its destination! Move furniture that’s blocking air regis-ters or baseboard heaters, preventing warmed air from being distributed throughout the room.

Close draperies on windows that don't receive sunlight during the day, and close all draperies at night.

A forced-air furnace or heat pump will run longer than necessary to warm your home if it has to fight to push air through a dirty air filter, so check and change the filter regularly during the heating season.

To prevent air leaks, make sure the windows really are closed all the way. If you can’t latch the win-dows, check for accumulated dirt and debris where the sash meets the weather stripping.

Electric water heaters often have two thermostats – one for the upper heating element and one for the lower heating element. Make sure both thermostats are set to 120 degrees, which most people to find satisfactory. Before removing the access panels on the water heater to reach the thermostats, turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker panel. Then adjust both thermostats to the same level to prevent one el-ement from overloading and prematurely wearing out.

Most new flat-screen TVs include energy-saving features you can adjust from the setup menus, includ-ing a sleep timer, multiple on-off timers and screen brightness. Use the latter feature to reduce power consumption at night, when the screen doesn’t need to be as bright as it does during the daytime for fa-tigue-free viewing.

Fluff bulky items such as towels, sheets and heavy clothing before you put them in the clothes dryer. Then you’ll be able to run a shorter cycle, because these items will dry faster.

Seal the hole where the bathtub drain comes down – and any other holes for plumbing or electrical wir-ing in the basement ceiling – with caulk or spray foam sealant. You may need to use a filler material for larger holes.

Turn off the lights (and the ceiling fan and television) when you leave the room!

Shut off power to your water heater when you go on vacation – even if you’re only going to be away from home for a few days.

Get leaks under control! A leak in a hot-water faucet (or the hot-water side of a single-handle faucet) that fills a cup in 10 minutes can waste more than 3,000 gallons of heated water a year. Whenever you’re not using your central vacuum system, it’s using power in the standby mode – just like most devices in your home that use a remote control. To save energy when you’re not using the central vac, unplug its power unit.

Install motion-sensing outdoor light fixtures that keep security lights off until they’re needed.

Allow cooked foods to cool before putting them in the refrigerator. Adding hot foods will make the compressor run overtime to compensate for the higher temperature in the refrigerated compartment. Use shallow containers so the foods will cool more quickly too.

Since most of the energy used by a dishwasher is for heating water, run it only with a full load.

Leaky window? Install a plastic film window insulating kit.

Water heater. Turn down its temperature setting, so it doesn’t keep the water hot while you’re away. 

Thermostat. Use the hold feature on your programmable thermostat and turn up the temperature on your air-conditioning system. But don’t turn off the system; without the dehumidification provided by the air conditioner, mold and mildew may develop. 

Refrigerator. Depending on the food stored in your fridge, you may be able to turn its thermostat as high as 38 degrees without risking spoilage. Food in the freezer compartment will stay frozen if the temperature is –5 degrees. 

Lights. Turn off all lights in your home, except ones plugged into timers for nighttime security. 

Electronics. Unless you’re recording something while you’re away or have a clock radio set to play during the wee hours to discourage burglars, unplug all your electronic devices: TV and cable/ satellite boxes, DVD player, microwave, digital clocks, and computer, monitor and printer. Anything with a digital display, instant-on feature or remote control will consume energy even if it’s not in use. 

For additional tips on saving energy and money at home all year long, visit the Touchstone Energy® website at www.togetherwesave.com.

For example, during summer months keep in mind that a fan doesn’t cool air or things. Instead, it cools you – which is why you shouldn’t leave the fan running \when the room is empty. 

In fact, ceiling fans cool the skin by creating a downward breeze, which should make you feel comfortable enough to turn up the air conditioner thermostat a few degrees. Look at the pitch of the blades to determine which rotation direction makes the air blow downward; it’s usually counterclockwise, when you look up at the fan. 

In general, during summer run the ceiling fan on medium or high speed to create a greater cooling effect. Setting the thermostat higher because you’re using a ceiling fan saves much more electricity than the ceiling fan consumes. 

During winter, flip the small switch on the side of the ceiling fan housing to reverse the blade rotation. Run the fan on low speed so it creates a gentle upward breeze away from people in the room. This will push the warm air – which naturally rises – back down into the room, where it’s needed. Then you can set your furnace a few degrees lower and save energy there too. 

Some new ceiling fans also have a built-in electric heater with a handheld remote thermostat/control. It functions the same way as a standard ceiling fan during summer. During winter, it automatically reverses rotation when switched to the heating mode. The heater allows you to take advantage of zone heating – only warming the room you’re currently using. 

The size (or capacity) of a ceiling fan is rated by the diameter of its blades. This is more important during summer when you want to feel the breeze on your skin. A common rule of thumb for sizing is to use a 36-inch fan for rooms up to 150 square feet, a 48-inch fan for up to 300 square feet and a 52-inch fan for up to 450 square feet. In larger rooms, use two fans spaced about one-quarter of the way in from opposing walls. 

For the greatest energy savings, look for an Energy Star® rated fan. In addition, better ceiling fans typically have a greater pitch (twist) on the blades. This requires a more powerful motor, but it moves more air at a lower rotation speed – and results in less sound and less chance of annoying wobble. 

A handheld remote control is a convenient feature included with both inexpensive and pricier models. Natural wood blades are attractive but inexpensive ones made of synthetic materials generally are well-balanced. And a rubber-mounted hub reduces noise and vibration, but even the best ceiling
fans may require you to attach small balancing weights to stop blade wobble at high speed.

Talk to your local electric cooperative to see if it has a low- or no-cost home energy audit program. If not, you easily can conduct a do-it-yourself home energy assessment to spot air leaks – some obvious and some hidden – during a simple but diligent walk-through. When you find problem areas, seal them with caulk, add weather stripping or make appropriate repairs. 

Look for obvious air leaks inside 

Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the baseboard or edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling. Then check to see if air can flow through these places: 

• Electrical outlets 
• Switch plates 
• Fireplace dampers 
• Attic hatches 
• Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners 

Also look for gaps around pipes and wires, foundation seals and the mail slot. Check to see if the caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, leaving no gaps or cracks, and are in good condition. 

Inspect windows and doors for air leaks. See if you can rattle them, since movement means possible air leaks. If you can see daylight around a door or window frame, then the door or window leaks. You usually can seal these leaks by caulking or weather stripping them. 

Check storm windows to see if they fit and aren’t broken. You also may wish to consider replacing your old windows and doors with newer, highperformance ones. If new factory- made doors or windows are too costly, you can install low-cost plastic sheets over the windows. 

Put a little pressure on your home 

If you’re having difficulty locating leaks, you may want to conduct a basic building pressurization test. 

First, close all exterior doors, windows and fireplace flues. Turn off all combustion appliances such as a gas-burning furnace, stove and water heater. 

Then turn on all exhaust fans (generally located in the kitchen and bathrooms), or use a large window fan or two to suck the air out of the rooms. 

This test increases air infiltration through cracks and leaks, making them easier to detect. You can use an incense stick or your damp hand to locate these leaks. With an incense stick, moving air will cause the smoke to waver; with your damp hand, a draft will feel cool to your skin.

Then go outside 

Walk around the perimeter of your home, inspecting all areas where two different building materials meet, including: 

• Exterior corners 
• Where siding abuts the chimney 
• Where the foundation meets the bottom of exterior brick or siding 
• Around doors and windows where trim contacts exterior walls. See whether storm doors and primary doors seal tightly too. 

Also inspect penetrations for faucets, pipes, electric outlets and wiring – and look for cracks and holes in the mortar, foundation and siding.

When sealing your home, be aware of the dangers of indoor air pollution and combustion backdrafts

Back drafting can occur when combustion appliances (or the fireplace) and exhaust fans in your home compete for air. An exhaust fan even may allow combustion gases back into a living space, creating a very dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.

If you use natural gas, fuel oil, propane or wood for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally, one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. If in doubt, contact a ventilation contractor.

1. Check the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Leave an appliance (or outdoor) thermometer in each section overnight. The temperature in the refrigerated section should be 35-38 degrees; in the freezer, look for 0-5 degrees. Adjust the temperature controls as necessary. 10 ways to make the most of your refrigerator’s energy use.
2. Keep the refrigerator door closed. Every time you open the door, about 30 percent of the cool air tumbles out. And standing in front of the refrigerator with the door open wastes even more energy!
3. Keep your refrigerator and freezer compartments full. Food (and even containers filled with water or ice) will retain the cold temperatures better than empty spaces. As a result, the compressor will run less often.
4. When you close the door, give it a little extra push. Make sure the door gasket seals completely by gently pushing on the door, even after it feels tightly closed. Check the door visually too.
5. Clean the condenser coils once or twice a year. After unplugging the unit, pull it away from the wall and use a vacuum cleaner or soft brush to remove dust from the condenser coils underneath (or on the back of) the appliance.
6. Let your refrigerator breathe. Don’t use the top of the refrigerator or the spaces on both the sides of the unit for storage. To work at peak efficiency, the refrigerator needs plenty of ventilation space around it to release the hot air produced during cooling cycles.
7. Allow cooked foods to cool before putting them in the refrigerator or freezer. Adding hot foods to the refrigerator will make the compressor run overtime to compensate for the higher temperatures. Use shallow containers, so the foods will cool more quickly.
8. Use lids or tops on food-storage containers. Moisture from foods and liquids evaporating inside the appliance will cause the compressor to run longer.
9. Label all food items before you put them in the freezer. You’ll be able to find what you’re looking for more quickly, reducing the time the door is open (and cold air is escaping).
10. Regularly service a manual-defrost freezer. Frost in the freezer compartment prevents the cold in the cooling coils from circulating properly, so defrost the unit before the ice is a quarter-inch thick.

• Find and seal air leaks that cause drafts and make your cooling system work overtime. Improving your home’s “envelope” or “shell” – its outer walls, ceilings, windows, doors and floors – is the most cost-effective way to improve your home’s energy efficiency and comfort. According to ENERGY STAR®, home sealing can help you save up to 10 percent on your energy bills each year.
• Look for the ENERGy STAR when purchasing cooling products for your home. Products such as room air conditioners and program- mable thermostats that dis- play the ENERGY STAR label operate more efficiently, because they meet strict energy-efficiency criteria set by the EPA and the U.S. Department of Energy.
• Schedule annual maintenance checkups with a licensed contractor to ensure your cooling system is operating efficiently and safely. Dirt and neglect are the leading causes of sys- tem failure, so get a cooling system checkup. If your cooling system is more than 12 years old and needs replacing, choose a properly sized (not oversized), energy-efficient model.
• Install a programmable thermostat and use ceiling fans wisely. A programmable thermostat can help you save up to $150 in energy costs each year. ENERGY STAR qualified ceiling fans provide a cooling breeze and allow you to raise the thermostat setting. (But remember to turn the fan off when you leave the room, since the fan cools you – not the room.) Learn what else you can do to make your home more energy-efficient by visiting “ENERGy STAR @ home” at www.energystar.gov/home. Learning how energy is used in your home is an important step toward cutting energy costs, improving your home’s energy efficiency and protecting the environment. At this Web site, you’ll find a more complete version of the in- formation shown here; note that many of the tips can apply to several rooms.

Bedroom

• Keep air registers clean and unblocked
• Buy an ENERGY STAR qualified room air conditioner
• Use CFLs in ceiling fixtures and bedside lamps
• Turn off lights when you leave
• Caulk and weather-strip around windows

Living Room 

• Look for the ENERGY STAR on TVs and DVD players
• Use a ceiling fan and raise your thermostat setting
• Tightly close the fireplace damper
• Use a timer to control a lamp when you’re away
• Install screens for ventilation on cool summer nights
• Close window shades and drapes to keep out sun

Home Office 

• Seal outlets and switches with inexpensive foam gaskets
• Unplug power adapters when not in use
• Let your computer sleep when you’re not using it
• Use a power strip to turn off all equipment
• Buy an ENERGY STAR qualified multifunction printer

Bathroom

• Run vent fan for up to 15 minutes after showering
• Seal holes for plumbing pipes
• Take showers instead of baths
• Use CFLs in vanity lights and ceiling fixtures
• Repair faucet leaks

Kitchen

• Buy an ENERGY STAR qualified refrigerator
• Recycle your energy-wasting old refrigerator
• Run full loads in dishwasher; use air-dry option too
• Use microwave for reheating or cooking small meals
• Cook with right-sized, covered pots on stove burners
• Use a vent hood to remove moisture

Basement

• Wash clothes with cold water
• Run full loads or adjust settings for smaller loads
• Clean the dryer’s lint trap after every load
• Don’t over-dry clothes
• Check cooling system’s air filter monthly
• Set water heater’s thermostat to 120 degrees

Bringing that number down to a more realistic level for your homestead, consider this: Planting as few as three properly positioned trees in your yard can help cut your energy costs from 15 to 35 percent annually – adding up to thousands of dollars you’ll save on air-conditioning costs as the trees grow to provide abundant shade.

Trees create two cooling effects. First, they cool the air by absorbing water through their roots and evaporating it through leaf pores. This process – called evapotranspiration – can result in reducing peak summer temperatures in the surrounding areas by two to nine degrees.

Second, trees provide shade to reduce the solar radiation that heats your home. Shaded exterior walls may be nine to 36 degrees cooler than unshaded ones, lowering the need for air conditioning. These cooler surface temperatures also reduce the amount of heat in the surrounding air.

What (and where) to plant

Planting the right tree in the right place is the most important step in landscaping for energy conservation. Selecting trees that will effectively shade your home requires consideration of the size, shape and density of the trees, as well as the location of the moving shadows that the trees will cast.

In fact, according to the U.S. Department of Energy, a six- to eight-foot deciduous tree planted near your home will begin shading your windows during the first year. And, depending on the tree species and the style of your home, you can expect that tree to begin shading your roof in five to 10 years.

Here are some guidelines for planting trees to help reduce solar heat gain on your home and cut your cooling costs.

• Locate deciduous trees – ones that drop their leaves in the fall – on the east and west sides of your home. In the winter, the sunshine will flow through the trees’ bare branches to warm the house and windows.
• Plant deciduous trees with high, spreading crowns – such as oak, linden and walnut – to provide maximum summertime roof shading.
• Position shade trees or shrubs to shade your air-conditioning compressor; operating in the shade, the unit will use 10 percent less energy than one in the sun. (Note: Be careful to allow enough space for adequate airflow on all sides of the compressor.)
• Use dense evergreen trees or shrubs to provide continuous shade.
• Select tree species with lower crowns to provide shade from lower afternoon sun angles.
• Consider planting some slow-growing varieties of trees. Although slow-growing trees may require many years of growth before they will adequately shade your roof, they often have deeper roots and stronger branches, making them more drought-resistant and less prone to breakage.
• Shade your driveway, patios and sidewalks with trees, shrubs, hedges and climbing vines. Otherwise, these areas will act as large passive solar collectors, retaining heat and radiating it into your yard and home – even after the sun goes down.

Other benefits of trees

While you’re enjoying a nice, cool home and lower energy bills during the summer, you also can enjoy many other benefits that trees provide.

• Trees give off oxygen. One large tree can provide a day’s oxygen for up to four people.
• Trees clean the air. Trees absorb carbon dioxide and remove other common pollutants from the air, including nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, particulate matter and ground-level ozone.
• Trees attract birds and other wildlife. Increased tree cover brings these natural elements into communities, enhancing the quality of life for residents.
• Trees improve water quality. Trees reduce storm water runoff and erosion, and they remove harmful chemicals from the soil to prevent them from running into streams and rivers.
• Trees increase property values. The sale price of a landscaped home is, on average, between five and 20 percent higher than a home without landscaping.  
• Trees add beauty and enjoyment to your physical surroundings. They create a positive psychological impact on peoples’ moods and emotions.\
• Trees create a calming effect. In laboratory research, visual exposure to settings with trees produced significant recovery from stress within five minutes. Studies also show that hospital patients recover more quickly in rooms that offer a view of trees.
• Trees control noise pollution. Strategically placed belts of trees can help reduce traffic and other neighborhood noises.
  Trees build stronger neighborhoods and help reduce crime. Trees increase relaxation, reduce aggression and bring neighbors outdoors – creating additional interaction among neighbors and lowering crime activity.

To your home’s electric meter, all space heaters look alike.

A space heater is a pretty simple device – and it’s close to 100 percent efficient, since almost all of the electric energy that goes into the unit is converted to heat. That being said, keep in mind that any time a portable electric space heater is turned on and producing heat, it’s also consuming energy.

Government standards limit the maximum output of a portable electric space heater to 1,500 watts, which is far too low for heating an entire home or even a large room. In fact, one rule of thumb suggests that it takes 10 watts of electricity to heat one square foot of space. In other words, 1,500 watts of electricity should heat a room measuring 150 square feet – but that’s without considering other factors affecting the room, such as its location within the house, insulation, air leaks and number of windows and doors.

If you set up a space heater in an always-cold room to take the chill off, your power bill is going to increase unless you make other changes at home to reduce your energy use. In fact, the only way a portable electric space heater is going to help you lower your annual heating bill is if you use it to heat the room you’re in and turn down the thermostat for the rest of the house.

This premise is the basis for claims made by the manufacturers of some portable electric space heaters that promise to reduce your heating bill by up to 50 percent. One manufacturer even suggests turning down the thermostat as low as 50 degrees for the rest of the house, while using a space heater to warm the single room you’re occupying!

What problem are you really trying to solve?

Some people buy a portable electric space heater to warm a chilly room. Others are trying to compensate for energy-wasting problems in their homes, such as a poorly maintained furnace, inadequate insulation, missing caulk around windows or damaged weather stripping around doors.

If you’re intrigued by the idea of experimenting with zone heating – in this case, setting the temperature of all the rooms in your home consider- ably lower than the one room warmed by a portable electric space heater – check the Honeywell Heat Savings Calculator at www.honeywellheatsavings.com. You may find that – excluding the cost of the space heater – you might be able to save a couple of hundred dollars a year on your utility bill, if you’re willing to put up with the discomfort of an always-chilly house and the inconvenience of moving a portable electric space heater to whatever room you’re occupying at the time.

In truth, based on energy-saving ideas from sources such as ENERGY STAR®, spending the same amount on energy-saving home improvements as you’d spend on a space heater likely would be a better investment in whole-house comfort – and reduced heating and air-conditioning bills for many years to come.

Here’s your opportunity to be a savvy shopper.

When you go shopping for a portable electric space heater, you’re going to find a lot of options. Fan-forced designs provide immediate heat for a small space or an entire room. Convection styles offer a gentler heat that’s perfect for families with kids and pets, but they’re not the best choice for drafty rooms. Ceramic heaters get up to temperature faster than other styles and come in sizes appropriate for warming a small area for one person or an entire room. Quartz and radiant models warm people and objects – instead of the room – just like the sun does. Oil-filled units look and work like a radiator and are very quiet, but they’re heavy. Baseboard versions run silently, supply consistent warmth and take advantage of convection currents along walls and under windows to distribute warmth. And thin micathermic panels noiselessly deliver gentle heat evenly throughout a room.

Unfortunately, no government agency or independent organization tests the heating performance of all portable electric space heaters, which makes it more difficult for you to compare models. However, there are a few Web sites that offer tests or consumer reviews of selected units; in all cases, enter space heater in the search box on the home page.

• Amazon.com offers a wide selection of products, backed by buyer reviews that often are brutally honest and critical. Listings include pricing and specifications too. Visit www.amazon.com.
• ConsumerReports.org offers general buying information and lab test results, but you’ll have to pay a joining fee to gain access to all the in- formation that’s available at this Web site. Check www.consumerreports.org.
• ConsumerSearch “reviews the reviewers” by republishing and rating reviews from other sources. Go to www.consumersearch.com.
• Epinions.com is a platform for average folks to offer their reviews of a wide variety of products and also offers links for price comparisons. See www.epinions.com.

Look for these features.

Check for the UL mark on any portable electric space heater you’re considering, which means representative samples of the appliance have met Underwriters Laboratories’ stringent safety standards. Most high-quality portable electric space heaters will include all or most of these features.

• A tip-over safety switch, which automatically shuts off the heater if it’s knocked over
• Thermostatic control, so the unit runs at full capacity to bring the room to the desired temperature and then switches to run at an energy-saving, lower-wattage level to maintain room temperature
• Automatic shutoff if the appliance overheats – with a manual reset, giving you the opportunity to check the unit and make sure everything is working properly before restarting it
• Integrated carrying handle (or easy-rolling wheels for larger units)
• Cool-to-the-touch cabinet
• Multiple-year warranty Here are some other features you might like to have.
• Timer that shuts off the unit after a set number of hours to prevent unintended operation
• Easy-to-use digital readout for precise temperature control and other functions
• Remote control that duplicates the functions on the control panel
• Programmable timer to start the unit at a specific time

Buy from a trusted source

Choose a portable electric space heater with a brand name you recognize from a source you trust. Check with local retailers and big-box stores; many of them will let you plug in their display units to test controls and heat output.

If you can’t find what you’re looking for locally, check magazine and newspaper ads and Internet sellers for reputable mail-order companies that of- fer a full money-back guarantee. Above all, avoid buying from a salesperson who’s passing through town or a temporary sales location in your area that is here today – and gone forever tomorrow.

Take advantage of windows

1. Try a few tests to find out which win- dows will maximize natural ventila- tion. Wind creates areas of positive and negative pressure around your house, so the windows near upwind areas will be cool air inlets and the windows near suction areas will be warm air outlets.
2. Force air to take a longer path be- tween windows, so more of your house will be cooled. Don’t locate inlet windows and outlet win- dows directly opposite each other, because only the area in between them will be cooled.
3. Create a stronger air current with slightly opened windows, instead of ones that are fully opened.
4. Close windows and doors during the hottest part of the day. If your house is well-tightened and insu- lated, your inside rooms should stay relatively cool during mid- to late-afternoon hours.
5. Open windows on cool, low-hu- midity nights to flush out heat that builds up during the day. Leave windows closed when the humidity is high, or your air conditioner will have to work extra-hard.

Keep the heat out of living areas

1. Keep interior lights dimmed or turned off during daylight hours. Turning on a table lamp for read- ing in a darkened room is a better choice than letting the sun stream in through a south or west window. On the other hand, north or east windows could provide enough light without significantly adding to the heat gain in an individual room.
2. Stop the sun’s warmth before it gets into your home by closing inside blinds and curtains during the day; light colors will reflect the most heat.
3. Turn off or unplug the television, entertainment equipment and computer when not in use. Many of these devices consume power and produce heat in the standby mode, so unplug them if you won’t be us- ing them for several days. The only way to turn off the power supply for a device such as a cordless phone or cable TV box is to unplug it.

Kitchen and laundry – play it smart

1. Choose your most energy-efficient appliances for cooking. Instead of using your stove or oven, use your microwave or a countertop appli- ance such as a toaster oven, slow cooker or steamer.
2. Cover pots and pans on the cook- top or stove. Cooking creates lots of heat and humidity, so contain it as much as possible.
3. Start the exhaust fan. Vent steam and heat from cooking to the out- doors. However, don’t run an ex- haust fan longer than necessary; in one hour, an exhaust fan can blow a house full of cooled air outside.
4. Run your dishwasher late at night. Start the dishwasher when you go to bed. If it has a timer, set the dishwasher to run during nonpeak hours in the middle of the night.
5. Use cold water for cooking. Heating the water on your stove or cooktop consumes less energy than using hot water from your water heater— especially if doing so causes your water heater to cycle.
6. Check the temperatures in the refrig- erator and freezer. The temperatures should run 38°-40° F. in the refrigera- tor and 0°-5° F. in the freezer. Setting colder temperature levels wastes en- ergy and makes these heat-producing appliances run too often.
7. Look at the dryer’s lint trap, duct- ing and exterior vent frequently, to make sure they’re clear. Excessive lint buildup can make your dryer run longer.
8. Dry clothes on an outdoor clothes- line. Wet clothes on an indoor clothesline will add humidity to your home and increase the load on your air-conditioning system.
9. Select cold water for wash loads. If you need to wash a warm- or hot- water load, run it during the late- evening or early-morning hours.
10. Wash only full loads. If you don’t have enough clothes for a full load, set the washer’s water level to match the load’s size.

New lightbulb standards are being enforced by confusion

Congress first enacted improved energy-efficiency standards for incandescent bulbs under the federal Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007. But when new lightbulb rules began to take effect in 2012, they were met with confusion.

Under the law, by 2014, lightbulbs using between 40 and 100 watts must consume at least 28 percent less energy than traditional incandescent light- bulbs, which will save Americans an estimated $6 billion to $10 billion in lighting costs annually. The measure also mandates that lightbulbs become 70 percent more efficient by 2020.

In June of this year, the U.S. House passed an amendment to stop enforce- ment of these standards, mirroring a funding freeze for enforcement efforts adopted in late 2011. Even if the provision becomes law, very little will change, because Congress has not repealed or adjusted existing lightbulb efficiency standards or changed the timeline for implementation. So, major lighting manufacturers such as Gener- al Electric, Philips and Osram Sylvania have no choice but to comply with the 2007 law.

As the next wave of standards kicks in, traditional 75-watt incandescent lightbulbs will no longer be available as of Jan. 1, 2013, and 40- and 60-watt versions no longer will be available as of Jan. 1, 2014.

Electronic chips provide the light

In the race to fill the nation’s grow- ing need for efficient lighting comes a new breed of illuminators, led by light-emitting diodes (LEDs). Tradi- tional incandescent bulbs create light using a thin filament inside a glass bulb – a delicate connection that easily can be broken, as frustrated home- owners can attest. In contrast, LEDs are at the forefront of solid-state light- ing. Inside, two conductive materials are placed together on a chip, creating a diode. Electricity passes through the diode, releasing energy in the form of light.

Invented in 1960 by General Electric, the first LEDs were red. (The color depends on materials placed on the diode.) Yellow, green and orange LEDs were created during the 1970s and the recipe for the color blue – the founda- tion for white LEDs – was unlocked in the mid-1990s. Originally used in re-mote controls, exit signs, digital watch- es, alarm clocks and car signal lights, LEDs quickly gained momentum for large-scale lighting.

By 2030, the U.S. Department of En- ergy estimates solid-state lighting tech- nologies could reduce the amount of electricity used for lighting – currently 13.6 percent of the nation’s total – by half, saving up to $30 billion a year in energy costs.

LEDs aren’t just for home use

Many people have purchased an LED bulb or two for home use – or may have seen strips of LEDs lighting dairy cases in their favorite grocery stores. But LEDs now are being tested in a wide variety of public, commer- cial, industrial and farm lighting installations.

Electric cooperatives, for example, are supporting LED research through the Cooperative Research Network (CRN), an arm of the National Rural Electric Cooperative Association. Recently, CRN worked with Western Farmers Electric Cooperative, a gen- eration and transmission cooperative based in Anadarko, Okla., and the Oklahoma State University Animal Science Department to evaluate LEDs at a farrowing operation and a dairy farm in the Sooner State. The project measured the effectiveness of LEDs in harsh environments and looked for any influences on animal behavior.

T-Bar M Dairy Ranch, outside of Durant, Okla., normally uses 250-watt metal-halide lights in its barns. CRN exchanged those bulbs in 10 fixtures with 120-watt LEDs. After 6 months, the dairy had cut energy use by 55 percent and boosted brightness by 30 percent.

“Utility costs go up every year – that’s reality,” says Tami Tollenaar, who manages the dairy. “To move forward in your business, you have to look for ways to be more efficient. LEDs are one of the things we can do to help us move forward.”

CRN also worked with Robinson Family Farms, a 380,000-head hog operation in Holdenville, Okla. The farm already used compact fluores- cent lamps (CFLs) but had problems because those bulbs didn’t work well in harsh conditions.

“Lighting for a swine facility is pretty important,” says owner Rich Robinson. “We try to convince the sows it’s spring year-round to improve their eating habits.”

CRN switched 25 fixtures from 26-watt CFLs to 15-watt LEDs. After 6 months, Robinson had slashed his energy use by 54 percent.

“I was worried, because normally when you see an LED it doesn’t seem to put out as much light as a 150-watt incandescent bulb,” he says. “It’s a different type of light. But, after in- stalling the lights, I was surprised at how well they lit up the area. I think the LEDs actually outperformed the CFLs.”

“The initial cost of LEDs is sig- nificantly higher than conventional lighting,” says Scott Williams, West- ern Farmers Electric Cooperative commercial and industrial marketing manager. “Like all modern technolo- gy, you can expect the price to come down as the product develops. How- ever, when you consider all the factors over the life cycle of a light, LEDs have already proved they save money.”

For additional information about solid-state lighting technologies, go to www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/ssl.

The proper heat pump for your home depends on a variety of factors. Here are some tips to use when con- sidering air-source and ground-source heat pumps.

The number of choices is growing

In the cooling mode, an air-source heat pump functions similarly to an air conditioner by moving heat from in- side to outside your home. In the heat- ing mode, the refrigerant flow is re- versed and delivers warm air indoors.

When outdoor temperatures drop significantly, the efficiency of an air- source heat pump decreases – and it can shift into an auxiliary heating mode, essentially making the unit an electric resistance furnace. Older heat pumps were much more sensitive to cold temperatures below 20 degrees, consuming more energy and forcing your power bill up.

New heat pumps are much more efficient, and a relatively new option in the marketplace – a dual-fuel setup that combines an air-source heat pump with a natural gas-, propane- or heat- ing oil-fired furnace – may be worth considering. You also might look into a ductless system instead of going the traditional ducted air-source heat pump route. A ductless system can require about 50 to 60 percent less elec- tricity than electric resistance heating, but it’s not a practical choice for some homes. In addition, air-source heat pumps that achieve Energy Star® desig- nation – meaning they meet or exceed federal energy efficiency standards – can be up to 9 percent more efficient than standard air-source heat pumps.

Go underground for heating and cooling

A ground-source heat pump, also called a geothermal heat pump, uses relatively stable underground tempera- tures to heat and cool your home – and even to supply hot water. There are two types: A groundwater (open-loop) heat pump that uses well water and an earth-coupled (closed-loop) model that
moves a water-and-antifreeze solution through underground pipes to disperse heat. The choice depends on your par- ticular situation.

A ground-source heat pump tends to be the most efficient heating and cooling technology available, but the up-front cost is significantly higher than for an air-source heat pump. A typical residential consumer selecting a geothermal system will save 30 to 60 percent on an average heating and cooling bill, with a payback period varying from 2 to 10 years, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Call your electric cooperative

Choosing a new heating and cooling system for your home is a big decision with lots of variables. Be sure to call your local electric co-op for advice on what type of unit will work best for you; also ask if your co-op offers any incentives or rebates for installing a heat pump. Then contact reputable and knowledgeable heating and cooling contractors to discuss your options.

Stop air leaks

A home that feels cold and drafty in winter becomes hot and stuffy during summer. Taking time to seal air leaks around your house will result in cooler tem- peratures inside and lower elec- tric bills year-round.

Add caulk and weather strip- ping around doors and windows, and check where walls meet ceilings and floors. Look at items that might seem innocuous but usually leak, such as recessed canister lights, outlets and switches.

Also check the air barriers that work in conjunction with your insulation, to make sure they’re not hanging loose or otherwise damaged. Sealing up the cracks around joists in your attic will help your insulation do a better job too.

Seal ductwork

Leaky ductwork will make your air-conditioning system work a lot harder than it needs to, which drives up your electric bills and wears out the heating and cooling equipment more quickly. It’s one of the first plac- es you should look if you’re try- ing to lower your warm-weather energy costs.

According to Energy Star®, about 20 percent of the air that moves through the duct system in a typical house is lost due to leaks, holes and poorly connect- ed ducts. If the duct system is exposed, you can seal the leaks with a paintbrush and mastic purchased at just about any home improvement store. If the ducts aren’t easily accessible, hire a professional heating and cooling contractor to seal them.

Install a programmable thermostat

Even if you’re not upgrading your entire heating and cool- ing system, you should install a programmable thermostat. But remember that to get the great- est benefit from the device you have to program it to match your family’s schedule and lifestyle – a step many people fail to take.

“A programmable thermostat is an excellent tool to improve your home’s energy efficiency, but you have to actually program it – and then you have to leave it alone,” says Brian Sloboda, senior program manager for the Cooperative Research Network. “Fiddling with the settings won’t help – but getting the settings to where you’re comfortable when you’re home will really help with energy savings.”

Landscape to shade your home

Planting a tree or climbing vine not only adds a little variety to your home’s landscape; it also can cool your house when the sun beats down. Trees in the right spot can decrease your home’s energy use by up to 25 percent, according the Department of Energy.

Plant deciduous trees – ones that lose their leaves every year – to the south and west of your home, and you’ll gain shade in the summer while letting the sunshine warm your home in the winter. A 6-foot- tall deciduous tree with an 8-inch trunk will begin providing shade the first year, and it only gets cool- er after that – reaching your roof- line in 5 to 10 years.

If you want shade all the time or need to block wind, choose evergreens. But when you’re pre- paring to choose your greenery, keep in mind that trees never should be planted underneath a power line. Call your electric co- operative to find out how far from lines you should plant, and then check www.arborday.org to learn about the types of trees that are best for your home’s landscape. And when it’s time to plant your trees, be sure to call Iowa One Call at 800-292-8989 to have the underground utilities in your yard marked before you dig.

Buy the right size air conditioner

If you’re in the market for a new central air conditioner, logic would indicate that a larger air-conditioning unit would keep your rooms cooler. In fact, the opposite is true. A unit that’s too large for the space will operate in- efficiently, wear out faster because it cycles too often and even cause mold problems because it won’t adequately remove humidity from the air.

A reputable heating and cooling contractor will need to do a lot of investigating and calculating on an industry-standard worksheet or computer program to come up with the correct rating for your cooling system. The licensed pro- fessional will consider things such as the size, style, orientation and shading of your home; insulation levels; window types, locations and sizes; air infiltration; location and condition of ducts; lighting and appliances in use; weather; your family’s lifestyle; and your comfort preferences.

Be sure to purchase a system with an Energy Star label, which means the product has met specif- ic energy efficiency standards set by the federal government. Central systems with the Energy Star des- ignation are about 14 percent more efficient than ones that don’t have it. And don’t forget to add a pro- grammable thermostat for maxi- mum efficiency.

Call your electric cooperative for help

As you work this summer to beat the heat, don’t forget about your local electric cooperative. One of the experts there can help you determine the right steps for making your home more energy efficient, including whether a complete home energy audit will help find more savings. Also ask about the latest rebates and other incentives for the energy-saving home improvements or the pur- chase of energy-efficient applianc- es and air conditioners.

Finally, visit the Touchstone Energy® Cooperatives website at www.togetherwesave.com to find out how the changes you make around the house can add up to big energy savings.

The next question probably will be about air leaks, because homes that aren’t properly insulated often have a lot of air leaks too. 

Your home’s “thermal building envelope” separates you from the outside elements. It’s like wearing a coat when it’s cold: If you zip up your coat, you’ll be nice and warm, but if it hangs open, you’re left freezing. By properly sealing the building envelope, creating air barriers and installing insulation, you’ll keep hot air out during summer and cold air out in winter. 

Sealing your home’s thermal envelope includes applying caulk and foam to cracks and gaps and correctly installing insulation. If the insulation isn’t properly put in, it won’t be able to do its job. Typically, incorrectly placed insulation leaves gaps between the walls and doors or windows – or where the ceiling meets the walls. If there’s a gap in insulation, heat will get through – into your home during warm-weather months and out of your home during cold ones. 

It’s all about air infiltration. Understanding air infiltration is only half the battle. You have to find and stop the invaders. The first step involves putting a “lid” on your home, because heated air rises and will work its way out of the living spaces. 

If your local electric cooperative offers home energy audits, call for one soon. Your co-op’s energy advisor can determine if your home needs a blower-door test, one of the best ways of finding out how much air goes in and out of the structure every hour. If a thermal imaging camera is available, the auditor can pinpoint exactly where your home loses air. Typical culprits include the roof and around doors and windows, recessed can lights, attic hatches and pull-down stairs, and unfinished basements or crawl spaces. 

Don’t overlook the obvious; check where ceilings and floors meet the walls too. Do you routinely have to clean a cobwebby corner? That’s a good indication of air infiltration, because insects like fresh air. 

Use caulk, weather stripping and expanding spray foam to take care of these problem areas. Remember this: Unless you fix air leaks first, adding insulation won’t make your home as comfortable or energy efficient as you want it to be. 

Now it’s time for insulation. While loose-fill fiberglass or fiberglass batts in your attic can keep heat from moving into or out of your home, they do little to stop airflow. In fact, if every single joint and crack is not sealed with caulk or expanding foam, your fiberglass batt insulation will do little more than catch dust. Look at your existing insulation around the edges; if it’s black, you’ve got air infiltration – dust being blown through the fiberglass and getting trapped. 

Cellulose, made from recycled newspapers and blown in, provides good attic insulation, because it does more to stop airflow. And foam insulation, while the most expensive, also boasts the highest R-value and completely blocks air. 

Your co-op energy professional can help you determine the best type of insulation for your home and also help you work out the payback period for your hometightening projects. The bottom line is this: Not only will you be investing in greater long-term comfort in your home, you’ll likely also benefit from significantly reduced cooling and heating bills. 

“When it comes to appliances in the kitchen, things are getting smarter,” says Kevin Dexter, senior vice president of home appliance sales and marketing at Samsung Electronics America. “We’re listening closely to consumers and adding improvements that busy moms want.” 

During the 2012 International Consumer Electronics Show, Samsung unveiled several appliance twists, including an LCD refrigerator featuring Wi-Fi with a grocery app and a Flex Duo Oven using a Smart Divider to cut wasted cooking space. 

Samsung isn’t alone. Other manufacturers also are looking for twists to make appliances smarter and keep consumers happy. 

“At GE Appliances, we’re rapidly expanding our Energy Star® offerings because it’s what consumers demand and it’s the right thing to do,” explains Rod Barry, director of efficiency and environmental relations for the company. He claims a kitchen equipped with GE’s Ecomagination appliances reduces electricity use by 20 percent, compared to standard models. 

But with so many cooks in the kitchen, not all innovations make energy sense. Appliances use 13 percent of a home’s energy – a hefty chunk of your monthly bill. 

Efficiency standards are getting tougher. Manufacturers constantly are enhancing appliances to comply with consumer requests and to meet everevolving federal efficiency standards. These standards, first enacted in 1987, drive efficiency innovations and are credited with saving more than $300 billion in electric bills during the past quarter-century, according to the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy. 

Current standards set the bar for refrigerators, freezers, washers, dryers, furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters, motors, lamps and other products. In 2011, a U.S. Senate committee considered tightening appliance standards even more, but the bill has not moved forward for a vote. 

Most manufacturers also strive to meet a higher bar of excellence – Energy Star qualification. Launched by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency in 1992, Energy Star is a voluntary, international standard for rating energy-efficient consumer products. Not only do qualifying appliances carrying the Energy Star logo meet federal standards, they exceed them. Energy Star-rated appliances use 10 percent to 50 percent less energy and water than standard models. 

Recycle replaced appliances! After an influx of appliance rebate funds – almost $300 million – from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, many consumers bought efficient appliances during 2010 and 2011. Although rebates were offered for heating and cooling systems and water heaters, kitchen and laundry workhorses were the clear favorites, garnering 88 percent of all redeemed rebates. About 586,000 consumers added refrigerators, 551,000 chose clothes washers and 297,600 bought dishwashers. 

The U.S. Department of Energy estimates this influx of efficient appliances will save $48 million in energy costs annually. But these savings only are realized when consumers follow the adage, “Out with the old, in with the new.” Unfortunately, a national electric cooperative survey shows that isn’t always the case. 

“A lot of folks buy these great new Energy Star refrigerators, then put the old ‘energy hog’ model in the basement as a soda fridge for the kids,” says Brian Sloboda, program manager for the Cooperative Research Network that monitors, evaluates and applies technologies to help electric cooperatives control costs, increase productivity and enhance services to their members. “As a result, a lot of potential savings are lost. Sure, it’s convenient to have the extra space, but these folks are paying significantly more just to have cold drinks handy.” 

The organization partnered with E-Source, a Colorado-based efficiency group, to conduct a national survey of appliances. The study found 19 percent of American homes plug in two refrigerators, and 40 percent of households run a stand-alone freezer, adding expensive cold storage to electric bills. 

Older models drain energy dollars. A refrigerator from the 1970s costs $200 more to operate every year than a current model; a 1980s fridge isn’t much better, wasting $100 in energy dollars annually. 

Shop for savings. When you go shopping for appliances, look beyond fancy bells and whistles and carefully research appliances to guarantee energy savings, according to the Federal Trade Commission. The agency enforces use of mandatory yellow  EnergyGuide labels to help you compare brands and shop effectively. 

Most of the differences that make appliances “smarter” are on the inside, in the motors, compressors, pumps, valves, gaskets, seals and electronic sensors. Even if two models look the same from the outside, less-obvious inside features can mean a big difference in monthly utility bills. '

EnergyGuide labels offer energy use and efficiency results from independent laboratory tests; the labels are required for refrigerators, freezers, dishwashers, clothes washers, televisions, water heaters, and select heating and cooling systems. 

Rebates are available today. First, check the website of your local electric cooperative – or call the office for details on the latest rebate programs. Some co-ops also offer rebates for recycling old refrigerators too. 

You also can check the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency at www.dsireusa.org for other local, state and federal incentive programs. Finally, search for rebates in your area by entering your ZIP code in the Energy Star Special Offer/Rebate Finder at www.energystar.gov.

Belly board problems- In most manufactured homes, the belly board holds the insulation in place under the floor and serves as a vapor barrier. Plumbing that runs under the floor is on the warm side of the insulation to keep it from freezing in the winter. However, the belly board can be damaged by animals, deteriorate over time or become torn, allowing the floor insulation to become moisture laden or fall out, exposing ductwork and dramatically increase energy losses. These problems must be addressed prior to basic weatherization. Replacing the belly board should be the first thing on your to-do list. 

Air leakage/infiltration- Specific problems include deteriorated weather stripping, gaps in the “marriage wall” that joins multiple  units making up a double- or triplewide home, holes in the ends of ducts, gaps around wall registers and behind washers and dryers, and unsealed backing to the electrical panel. Crawl under the home and into the attic to look for gaps to seal with weather stripping and insulation. 

Crossover ducts- Crossover ducts that run under the sections making up your mobile home often are made of flexible tubing; they’re prone to collapse and are easy for animals to chew or claw into. Crossover ducts made of thin sheet metal can leak heated or cooled air outdoors, especially when ductwork connections are made with duct tape. Use either duct sealant or metal tape to seal seams in the ducts. If you can afford the upgrade, consider replacing flexible crossover ducts with insulated metal ductwork. 

Lack of insulation-  Insulation levels in walls, floors and ceilings in manufactured homes can be woefully inadequate, so adding additional insulation to ceiling and floors will help. However, adding insulation to walls will be a problem without major renovations that usually aren’t cost justified. 

Single-glazed windows and uninsulated doors- Many manufactured homes come with single-glazed windows and uninsulated doors, so the rate of heat transfer between finished interior spaces and the outdoors is higher than what’s ideal. Replacing the windows with double- or triple-glazed units (or adding
storm windows) will help to make the home more comfortable. Installing insulated doors also will help. However, these solutions can be very expensive. At a minimum, add weather stripping to existing doors and windows.

However, selecting the proper temperatures throughout the day and night can be a bit confusing. Of course, you need to balance comfort with savings – but you may be surprised at how quickly you’ll adapt to a lower indoor temperature. Eventually, you even might feel a little uncomfortable at the higher indoor temperatures that used to seem normal. 

There are other advantages to reducing the thermostat setting during winter too. If your house temperature is lower, it requires less moisture to keep the indoor air at a given relative humidity level. The fact that your furnace or heat pump runs less often at a lower temperature also means the equipment will last longer and need fewer repairs. 

There is not a best furnace or heat pump thermostat setting for all homes and weather conditions. The lower you set the thermostat, the greater the overall savings you’ll achieve. The amount of savings per degree for each nighttime 8-hour setback period ranges from 1 percent to 3 percent. If you’re gone during the daytime, you can set the temperature lower for a total of about 16 hours per day. Unless there are health problems in your family, 62 degrees should be comfortable if you’re wearing long sleeves or a sweater. 

Let comfort dictate how low you initially set the thermostat. As you get used to the lower temperature, you’ll be able to gradually lower it more. Be sure to watch for excessive window condensation, which can limit how low you set the indoor temperature; to go as low as you’d like to, you may have to reduce the indoor humidity level. 

A common myth is that it takes as much or more energy to reheat a house each morning compared to what was saved during the temperature setback period overnight. The amount of heat a house loses through its floors, walls and ceilings is directly proportional to the difference between the indoor and the outdoor
temperatures. Air leakage into and out of your house also increases with larger temperature differences. 

When the indoor temperature is set lower, the indoor-to-outdoor temperature difference is smaller – so less heat is lost from your home. As a result, your heating system needs to use less power to create the heat toreplace what’s been lost. The amount of heat used to reheat the house, therefore, is less than the amount saved over the temperature setback period. 

The only time a temperature setback may not be wise is if you have an older heat pump with backup electric resistance heat and an old thermostat. When it’s time to reheat the house and you set the thermostat higher again, the expensive backup electric resistance heater may come on. For a long, 8-hour setback, you
likely will save – but you won’t see a noticeable savings for just a short 1- or 2-hour setback.

A geothermal heat pump is one of the most energy-efficient heating and cooling systems for any climate. Even though it provides a good long-term payback during its lifetime, the initial installation cost is considerably higher than it is for a standard air-source heat pump. Also, depending upon your yard and soil type, a geothermal system may not be appropriate for your house. 

An air-source heat pump is basically a central air conditioner with a few extra parts. It’s called a heat pump, because it literally pumps heat out of your house (cooling mode) to – or into your house (heating mode) from – the outdoor air around the compressor/ condenser unit. 

In the cooling mode, a heat pump draws heat from the indoor air as it passes through the indoor evaporator coils. Through a refrigeration cycle identical to that of an air conditioner, the heat pump expels this heat outdoors. 

The cooling efficiency of a heat pump is rated by its SEER, or seasonal energy efficiency ratio. A heat pump’s cooling efficiency is only slightly less than for a similarly sized conventional central air conditioner. 

During the winter, a reversing valve inside the heat pump’s outdoor unit reverses the flow of refrigerant. Instead of running the cool refrigerant through the indoor coil, it runs the hot refrigerant indoors. 

The cold refrigerant is run outdoors where it draws heat from the surrounding air. Since the refrigerant is colder than the outdoor air, it absorbs heat, even though the outdoor air may feel cold to you. Heating efficiency is rated by HSPF, or heating seasonal performance factor. 

As the temperature gets colder outside and the heating needs of your home increase, the heat pump has a harder time drawing heat from the cold outdoor air. At a certain point, the heat pump no longer can provide enough heat to keep your house warm, and a backup heating source comes on. Your heating and cooling contractor can set the temperature at which the backup comes into play. 

Many recent developments in airsource heat pumps have made them very efficient. For example, a heat pump with a modulating, multistage output rotary compressor design, which first was introduced in central air conditioners, is now available in heat pumps and produces extremely high efficiencies for both heating and cooling (HSPF 10 and SEER 22). That means you can get around $2 to $3 worth of heat for each $1 on your utility bill. 

This type of heat pump uses its rotary compressor to vary the heating or cooling output from about one-third to full capacity. The result is lower electricity consumption, plus great comfort, quiet operation and even room temperatures. 

Another new two-stage heat pump design couples a solar panel with the outdoor unit. On a sunny day, this solar panel produces enough electricity to operate the condenser fan for up to 8 percent electricity savings. When it’s not sunny (or at night), the outdoor condenser fan runs on electricity like any other heat pump. 

No matter what type of new heat pump you select, make sure your duct system is compatible with it. There typically should be from 400 to 500 CFM (cubic feet per minute) of airflow per ton of cooling through the unit for the best efficiency. Your old duct system may need to be modified. 

The user-friendly site includes access to publications on topics such as tracking farm energy use and ballasting a tractor for peak fuel efficiency. In addition, there are slide presentations that supplement some publications, as well as a section carrying the latest news. 

The Extension received a grant from the Iowa Energy Center to carry out the initiative. Among the other partners in the effort are the Iowa Association of Electric Cooperatives, Central Iowa Power Cooperative, Consumers Energy, the Iowa Farm Bureau Federation and the USDA.

Tip No. 1: The threads on faucets vary, so take the old aerators with you to the hardware store or home center so you can match the new ones to them.

Tip No. 2: When you install a new aerator, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure the rubber washer is installed correctly. Also note that some aerators are designed to be hand-tightened; using pliers may damage the aerator.

Tip No. 3: If you have a leaky faucet, repair or replace it. A faucet that drips enough to fill a cup in 10 minutes will waste more than 3,000 gallons of water a year.

Tip No. 4: When you’re ready to buy a new faucet, look for one with the EPA’s WaterSense label. For a list of qualified faucets and aerators – as well as watersaving showerheads and toilets – go to www.epa.gov/watersense.

By stopping drafts at their source, you’ll stay warmer at lower thermostat settings, use less energy and reduce your utility bills. As a bonus, the air leaks you plug now will help your air conditioner cycle less often next summer. 

It’s not easy to caulk and weatherstrip the offending spots around your home’s exterior when winter’s raging outside. However, you can stop many leaks from inside – especially the ones that transfer cold air from room to room or from your basement through the house and into the attic. 

You likely already know the location of many of the cold air leaks in your home, but you can use your hand or a lighted incense stick to confirm their existence. Before you start, note that caulks and other sealing materials generally are formulated for application at temperatures above 40 degrees. If you must repair a large interior air leak (or one on an outside wall) during low outside temperatures, be sure to buy a caulk or sealant specifically designed for that purpose. 

Start in the basement. 

• Caulk any crack between the sill plate and foundation wall using a material that works well with masonry. Use caulk to fill any cracks between the sill plate and band joist too. 
• The chase for a plumbing stack may run inside the walls of your home, from the basement to the attic, with openings at each floor where the pipes branch off. If the chase isn’t much larger than the pipes, seal it with expanding foam. For larger chases, use drywall, wood or rigid foam – and caulk or foam all around the edges. 
• Seal the hole where the bathtub drain comes down – and any other holes for plumbing or electrical wiring in the basement ceiling – with caulk or foam. You may need to use a filler material for larger holes. 
• If your home has forced-air heat, there may be large cracks or gaps where the ducts pass through the ceilings, floors and walls. Caulk or foam where the metal duct opening and the ceiling, floor or wall meet. Also seal joints in the ducts with duct mastic. 
• Using a caulk that works well with masonry, fill cracks where the frames of basement windows are set into the walls. Windows that are not used for summer ventilation or as fire exits can be caulked shut permanently. For operable windows, use a strip-away, nonpermanent caulk you easily can remove. 
• Weather-strip the edges (and insulate the back) of the hatch or door to the crawl space. 

Move up to family living spaces. 

• Caulk around frames for exterior doors and around trim and baseboards with an interior-grade caulk. Use a clear-drying caulk for hardwood or tile floors and trim with natural wood finishes – and paintable caulk for painted trim and carpeted floors. 
• Seal cracks between the walls and window frames and trim, especially under the windowsills. 
• Around the moving parts of windows, use a strip-away, nonpermanent caulk or cover the entire window with a plastic film windowinsulating kit. 
• Install foam gaskets on all electrical switches and outlets – even on interior walls. Be sure to turn off the power to the area where you’ll be working first. 
• Use child-safety plugs to minimize the amount of cold air coming through the sockets in outlets. 
• Recessed lights and bathroom fans can poke into attic insulation and create a pathway for air leaks, so seal around them from below with flexible, high-temperature caulk. 
• Cracks, missing plaster and exposed lath indicate a direct hole into wall and ceiling cavities. Repair these spots with plaster or
  cover them with new drywall. 
• In the kitchen, caulk or foam around kitchen cabinets, as well as drains and water pipes where they enter the wall or floor. In
  bathrooms, seal areas around medicine cabinets, bathtubs and showers too. 
• Tightly seal the whole-house attic fan with a window insulating kit or othe material.
• If you have an attic hatch, make sure it fits tightly and is backed by insulation. Weather-strip the edges of the access hole and build a simple wood box to hold insulation on the backside of the hatch. As an alternative, purchase an insulated hatch cover.

The calculator can help you plant the right tree in the right place – and determine the financial, environmental and health benefits of new or existing trees. All you have to do is type in the species of tree and the diameter of its trunk and press enter. You’ll then receive a detailed report about the benefits of your tree. 

For example, a Silver Maple with a 10-inch-diameter trunk planted at a single-family residence in central Iowa provides $101 in energy savings, property value, air quality and more every year according to the calculator. If the tree is properly cared for and grows to a 15-inch-diameter trunk, the calculator estimates the tree then will provide $171 in annual benefits. 

“For the first time, individual homeowners, school children or anyone with an interest in trees can easily access ongoing research that quantifies how trees improve the environment and our lives,” says Scott Maco, ecosystem services manager for the Davey Tree Expert Company. “The National Tree Benefit Calculator helps them to better understand how the simple act of planting or maintaining a tree can mitigate your carbon footprint, improve the air we breathe or save you money on your energy bill.”

1. Install a programmable thermostat. Models are available for almost every type of home heating and cooling system, and you can save up to $180 per year in energy costs. Be sure to choose one that’s designed specifically to work with your type of system.
2. Replace energy-wasting incandescent lightbulbs inside and outside your home with ENERGY STAR® qualified compact fluorescent lightbulbs. Each bulb you switch will use 75 percent less energy, save about $30 over its lifetime and pay for itself in about six months.
3. Use spray foam sealant or caulk to stop air leaks around plumbing pipe penetrations through floors, walls and the foundation. Seal around holes for
   electrical conduits and wires too. (Turn off the power first!)
4. Caulk trim where it meets the ceiling to prevent air leaks to the attic from rooms below. Also caulk baseboards along outside walls.
5. Computers, printers and other office devices consume power in the standby mode, so unplug them when they’re not in use – or plug them into a power strip and turn it off when you’re away. This applies to battery chargers for phones too.
6. To stop heated air from escaping into the attic, caulk the gap around the metal box for the bathroom exhaust fan where it meets the ceiling. You’ll first need to turn off the power and remove the fan’s decorative grill or light cover.
7. Adjust the threshold under each exterior door to eliminate cold air leaks. If you think there’s an air leak but you’re not quite sure, place a dollar bill on the
   threshold and close the door. If you easily can pull out the dollar bill, adjust the threshold until it fits tightly against the bottom of the door.
8. Replace damaged or missing weather stripping to stop air leaks around door and window frames.
9. A forced-air furnace or heat pump will run longer than necessary to warm your home if it has to  fight to push air through a dirty air  filter, so check and
   change the  filter regularly during the heating season.
10. Seal leaks in your heating system’s ducts using adhesive backed foil tape or duct mastic specifically designed for the job. Ironically, duct tape is not the best thing to use, because the cloth-based tape often fails when subjected to heating cycles.
11. Close draperies on windows that don't receive sunlight during the day, and close all draperies at night.
12. Vacuum air registers, baseboard heaters or radiators. When you see dust, dirt, pet hair and spiderwebs building up, clean these parts of your home’s heating system so they’ll help heat your home efficiently.
13. Space heating probably accounts for the largest share of your utility bill during winter months, so have your heating system inspected by a professional
    technician to make sure it’s operating at peak efficiency.
14. Tightly close the fireplace damper whenever you don’t have a  fire burning, to prevent air warmed by your home’s heating system from escaping up the chimney.
15. Run your ceiling fan on low speed in a clockwise direction – as you look at it from below – during cold-weather months to move the warm air that gathers
    near the ceiling back into the room. Then reduce your heating system’s thermostat by two or three degrees. 
16. A 3/16-inch straight-blade screwdriver is just the right size for removing the little screws in switch plates and outlet plates on exterior walls, so you can
    install draft-blocking foam insulating pads behind them. (Be sure to turn o‘ the power  first!)
17. Find out how much insulation you have in your attic. A small investment there can pay big dividends in cutting your power bills and keeping your home more comfortable this winter. The insulation should be about 14-18 inches in depth or rated R-49, depending on the type of insulation you choose.
18. Use LED light strings for holiday decorating. Compared to holiday decorations using traditional miniature lights, LED lights consume 90 percent less energy, operate 30 times longer and stay cooler – which increases safety, especially when they’re used on wreaths and trees. 
     

When you upgrade your existing central air-conditioning unit, you have two good choices: a conventional split system – with the compressor outside and the evaporator inside – or an add-on, air-source heat pump that can cool your home in the summer and help with the heating load in the winter. If you’re swapping your entire heating and cooling system for a new one – or building a new home – you haveother possibilities; in addition to a conventional split system, look at an air-source heat pump or a geothermal heat pump.

A bad installation can cost you money. According to ENERGY STAR®, more than half the new heating and air-conditioning systems put in U.S. homes do not perform to their rated e ciency because of improper installation. A poor installation can reduce performance by as much as 30 percent, which can a ect your
electric bills and lead to a variety of comfort problems, including insufficient dehumidification, dust from leaking ductwork and poor air distribution.
 

When you’re talking with contractors, ask these questions:

• Do you offer ENERGY STAR quali ed equipment?
• Will you measure my home and calculate the correct size for my equipment using the Air Conditioning Contractors of America Manual J?
• Will you install a properly matched indoor coil and outdoor unit?
• Will you test to determine the maximum system size that can be installed with my existing ductwork?
• Will you consider if zoning, with separate temperature controls for different areas, would be appropriate for my home?
• Will you test to confirm that duct leakage does not exceed recommended levels?
• Will you check for damage to existing ductwork and duct insulation and make repairs if necessary?
• If insulating ducts, will you seal all duct seams first?
• Will you install new refrigerant lines, rather than reusing existing lines?
• Will you confirm proper levels of refrigerant and air flow across the coil?
• Do you offer third-party verification that my system was properly installed and set up?
• After installation, will you leave all manuals with me and provide documentation of installation procedures, including Manual J calculations, AHRI certificate and records of any measurements or testing?
• Will you install and help me to set up an ENERGY STAR qualified programmable thermostat, if I don’t already have one?
• Will you show me how to replace the air filter(s) in my new system? 
• Will you provide me with information on any local rebate programs for which I might be eligible?

Bigger isn’t necessarily better.  According to the U.S. Department of Energy, national surveys have indicated that more than half of all heating and cooling contractors don’t properly size heating and cooling systems. For air-conditioning systems, oversizing is a real problem; not only do oversized units consume more energy, they also remove less moisture from your home and have a shorter service life. The size of central air conditioners is measured
in Btu/hour – British thermal units per hour. A reputable contractor will need to do a lot of investigating and calculating on a worksheet or computer to come up with the correct rating for your cooling system, considering things such as the size, style, orientation and shading of your home; insulation levels; window types, locations and sizes; air in-  ltration; location and condition of ducts; lighting and appliances in use; weather; your family’s lifestyle; and your comfort preferences.
e written bid you receive should be based on the Air Conditioning Contractors of America Manual J and detail the sizing calculations in writing. Don’t  accept an estimate that is based only on the size of the existing unit, the square footage of your house or any other rule of thumb.
 

1. Be prepared. Find out about license and insurance requirements for contractors in your area. Before you call a contractor, know the model of your current heating and cooling system, as well as its maintenance history. 
2. Look for a contractor who employs technicians certified by NATE (North American Technician Excellence), the leading industry-supported testing and certification program. 
3. Call references. Ask each contractor for customer references, and call them. Ask about the contractor’s installation performance – and if the job was completed on time and within budget.
4. Expect a home evaluation. The contractor should spend significant time inspecting your current system and home to assess your needs. A bigger system isn’t always better; a contractor should size the heating and cooling system based on criteria such as the square footage of your house, level of insulation, duct system and total window area. 
5. Look for ENERGY STAR® qualified products at www.energystar.gov, which must meet strict energy-efficiency guidelines and can offer significant long-term energy savings. 
6. Find special offers. Ask your local electric cooperative and the contractor about rebates on energy-efficient heating and cooling equipment. 
7. Get written, itemized estimates. When comparing bids, consider warranties and the disposal of old equipment. 
8. Sign a written proposal with the contractor before work gets started. The document should specify project cost, model numbers, installation schedule and warranty.

First, make sure that temporary measures won’t work until warmer weather arrives. Stu foam weather stripping or a piece of foam backer rod into the offending crack. However, don’t use duct tape or any other adhesive-backed materials; they likely won’t stick – and if they do, you’ll have a big, gooey mess to clean up before you can properly caulk the crack in a few months. In addition, don’t use berglass insulation, because it’s not a good air barrier. 

Most caulks work best when applied above 40 degrees; use below that temperature can diminish the adhesion, curing and long-term performance of the caulk. So, buy a special low-temperature caulk or one that contains silicone or rubber in its formulation. Then follow these tips for the best chance of success – even in below-zero temperatures. 

• Choose a day when the weather forecast calls for no precipitation, the mildest temperature of the week and the smallest di erence between daytime and overnight temperatures. Wait until the warmest part of the day to caulk. 
• Make sure all surfaces of the area to be caulked are clean and dry. A nearly invisible coating of ice may cover the area, so lightly wipe the area with acetone or methyl ethyl ketone or carefully blow on the area with a hair dryer plugged into an outdoor circuit protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Do not mix these two drying techniques!) Then gently wire brush the area to promote adhesion. 
• Warm the caulk inside your house to room temperature – a least 60 degrees – for a day before application. 
• Be generous with your bead to allow for maximum expansion and contraction of the joint.